Beuil: The scenic Plateau of St-Jean

 

Heading to Plateau St-Jean

We had earlier hiked on the Bergians Plateau south of Beuil. We now wanted to explore another variant passing through the Plateau of St-Jean Baptiste.

The drive to Beuil in the Cians River Valley is always an adventure even when you remember all the bends by heart. This time, in late spring, we stopped to admire the terracotta coloured vertical rocks covered with beautiful hanging white flowers (Image below).

We drove through Beuil to Les Launes and forked sharply left to the vast parking next to the Eguilles ski lift.

Gorges du Cians hanging flowers
Gorges du Cians hanging flowers
Leaving les Launes parking
Leaving les Launes parking
Forest under les Claus
Forest under les Claus
View across Cians Valley
View across Cians Valley
Path near Eguilles
Path near Eguilles

We started from signpost #17, heading southeast along a narrow unpaved road. At signpost #18, we forked left, still descending. We soon exited the dirt road and continued along a nice forest path. Gradually the incline became steeper and the path narrower when it undulated on southern flank of the mountain. We passed signpost #70, forking left here. We now headed east then straight north towards the plateau. Because of the heat on the south-facing flank and steep incline the stretch was a bit more challenging than anticipated.

Once above the forest, the path was less steep. We headed northwest along a grassy ridge reaching a viewing point at Les Claus (1750 m). In fact, there was an unobstructed panorama from everywhere on the vast plateau. Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste was on a nearby hill to the east.


Steep path to Plateau St-Jean
Steep path to Plateau St-Jean
Giarons across the Cians Valley
Giarons across the Cians Valley
Mont Mounier seen from les Claus
Mont Mounier seen from les Claus
Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste
Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste

We descended to sign post #57b then followed the marked path  near signpost #57a  but forked left before it. The path was a dotted line on the map and turned out to be a mountain biking and trail running itinerary. It followed an easy ski run and enabled a rapid descent back to our starting point.


Climb: 360 m
Distance: 7,2 km
Duration:  2h 50 active hiking
Map: 3640 OT Haut Cians/Valberg


Plateau St-Jean hike track



Lentil soup

Lentil soup

 

Lentil soup was already mentioned in the Bible, and lentils were widely used in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. On the Riviera and in the Niçois backcountry, favas and chickpeas were the most important cultivated vegetables. Lentils and white beans are relative newcomers. Nowadays, several types of organic lentils are cultivated in France.

Lentils are a good source of vegetable protein, fibre, and antioxidants. They help to reduce LDL-cholesterol and blood sugar.

In my pantry, I always have dried organic red lentils, lentilles corail, dried Provençal herbs, olive oil, black pepper, and tomato paste. And in my refrigerator, organic chicken stock, a piece of parmesan, shallots, onions, and garlic. The secret for the great taste of this simple, quick to make soup lies in using good quality organic ingredients. Lentils do not need any soaking before cooking.

2 servings

120 ml dried red lentils

About 600 ml chicken stock

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 shallots or ½ onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A generous amount, about 2- 3 tbsp. tomato paste

About 6 tbsp. freshly grated parmesan

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper


In a saucepan, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat and sauté the shallots and garlic for about 5 minutes.


Add the chicken stock, lentils, herbs, and black pepper and bring to a boil. Cook for 15 minutes until the lentils are soft.


Stir in the tomato paste and let warm thoroughly. Add some water if the soup feels too thick. 


Divide the soup into two bowls and sprinkle over the parmesan. Serve with a green side salad and some god country bread for a balanced meal.


Beuil: Tête de Giarons

Tête de Giarons summit

 

On this clear but hazy day in early June we headed to Beuil. It was said that the odd colour of the skies was attributed to Canada wildfires smoke which had crossed the Atlantic.

Our goal was Tête de Giarons (2027 m), one of the verdant peaks south of Beuil. In this region, we had previously hiked to Tête de Perail, Tête de Pommier and Pin Pourri.

The scenic mountain massif  is located east of the Cians River. The summit of Tête de Giarons  is on the border of the communes of Beuil and Pierlas.

Crossing Cians River
Crossing Cians River
Path above Cians Valley
Path above Cians Valley
Cians Valley
Cians Valley
Path to Giarons
Path to Giarons
Giarons near signpost#74
Giarons near signpost#74

We parked south of Beuil by the D28 road next to huge terracotta-coloured boulders and rocks. Our starting point, signpost #69 (1288 m; Pré de Chaudi) was 100 m to the south. Crossing the Cians River 11 years ago posed some problems. Now very little water flew in the river, but there wasn’t a footbridge as shown on the map, just stones.

We ascended in a dense forest along a good path above the Cians Valley, heading south. The direction gradually took an easterly direction and we reached clearings, Alpine meadows and ruined houses. The path markings were fading and some grassy stretches were overgrown. We now headed north to signpost #74 at Giarons (1658 m) with more ruins and apparently ancient farming and pasture land.



Above Giarons
Above Giarons
Beuil seen from trail
Beuil seen from trail
Nearing signpost#76
Nearing signpost#76
Tête de Giarons
Tête de Giarons

We forked south, and were mostly above the tree line. There were yellow markings. At 1800 m elevation, at a crossroads, we unintentionally took the right hand path, climbed to a larch wood under a hill. This path had fading old markings as well but as the path ended we climbed to our intended itinerary and continued to signpost #76. We forked left and climbed to Tête de Giarons. The summit offering a nice panorama was marked with a small iron cross and a stick. It was surrounded by a vast summit plateau.

On the way back, we took a shortcut from the summit directly to the trail used earlier then followed it back to our starting point.


Climb: 770 m
Distance: 10,5 km
Duration: 4h 45 active hiking
Map:  3640 OT Haut Cians Valberg

Wild hawthorn in bloom
Wild hawthorn in bloom

Tête de Giarons hike track



Pasta, shrimp and asparagus in a white wine sauce

Pasta, shrimp and asparagus ina white wine sauce



This springtime pasta recipe is easy to make but full of flavours.

2 servings

Whole wheat pasta, fusilli or penne, for 2

About 200 g cooked shrimp

About 6- 8 sprigs of green asparagus

Olive oil

1 shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

200 ml white wine

2 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat or cream

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


Start with sautéing the shallot and garlic in 2 tbsp. olive oil in a saucepan. Add the wine and continue cooking until reduced by almost half. Just before serving, add the black pepper and whisk in the crème fraîche.


Peel and trim the asparagus. Cut them into about 4 cm long pieces. Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a skillet and sauté the asparagus for about 10 minutes until soft.


Cook the pasta according to the advice on the package. Drain and add to the skillet with asparagus.


If the shrimp are very large, cut them into halves. Add to the skillet for 1- 2 minutes to be reheated. 


Divide the sauce into the bottom of two bowls. Fold in the pasta, shrimp, and asparagus. Decorate with some fresh herbs.


Mont Falourde from Bairols

 

Mont Falourde in sight


The well visible but less visited summit of Mount Falourde (1306 m) can be best reached from the perched village of Bairols (850 m). Situated 7 km northwest of the confluence of the Tinée and Var rivers, the mountain’s southern flank is steep and precipitous. The northern face is mostly forested.

From Pont de Clans in the Tinée Valley, we drove to Bairols with a spacious   parking just before the village. The road was good albeit narrow in places with little traffic.


Start of trail to M Falourde
Start of trail to M Falourde
Bairols
Bairols
Leaving Bairols
Leaving Bairols
Mont Falourde
Mont Falourde

We started from signpost #191. Our summit was not mentioned, just St-Martin, Le Lac, Massoins etc. We descended to Vallon de Bairols with a dry riverbed. The start of the ascending trail had collapsed, and there were attempts to rebuild this with a heap of stones. Later the trail was mostly OK. We reached a paved road with restricted traffic at a place called St.-Martin (1071 m). The signpost #190 was here in a bend, not as on our map, 300 m further by the road.

We followed the paved road, climbing gradually. At a sharp bend (1183 m elev. on the map) we tried in vain to locate a forest path which went directly to the western flank of Mount Falourde. We therefore continued along the road to signpost #194 near an area named Le Lac. Here, we forked left (south) along a wide track towards Pointe de l’Adret.

We reached a picturesque clearing east of this peak. We continued east along  le Bau du Paradis (actually a ridge between the two summits), first along the same track then forked right and followed a partly ingrown path which undulated in the terrain. We had our goal in sight all the time. The incline increased just before the summit. Some easy scramble helped.


Nearing Pointe de l'Adret
Nearing Pointe de l'Adret
Next to Pointe de l'Adret
Next to Pointe de l'Adret
Tinée and Var Valleys
Tinée and Var Valleys
Nearing Mont Falourde
Nearing Mont Falourde
Tinée Valley seen from M Falourde
Tinée Valley seen from M Falourde


On the way back, we descended to signpost #194, walked past Le Lac (mountain holiday cottages to rent) and soon reached signpost #195, forked right and descended to St.-Martin. The last stretch was eroded and overgrown. From here, we used the same itinerary back to Bairols. 


Climb: 610 m
Distance: 11 km
Duration: 4h 45 active hiking

Bairols to M Falourde track


Lemon-caper sauce for white fish

Lemon-caper sauce for white fish

 

This simple but tasty sauce works with any white fish such as cod, sea bass, halibut or monkfish. If you don’t have thick fat reduced crème fraiche in your shops you can use full fat cream.

In the photo, the halibut is served with black rice, lemon- caper sauce, and sautéed green asparagus which make a festive and colourful combination. But feel free to serve your fish with any good carbs and vegetable for a balanced meal.

2 servings

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

100 ml white wine

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat

3 tsp. capers


Warm the olive oil over medium-low heat in a saucepan. Sauté the shallot and garlic for 5- 10 minutes. 


Pour in the wine and lemon juice. Increase the heat and let bubble until reduced by half.


Just before serving, whisk in the crème fraiche and capers. Divide over the fish.


St-Blaise to Foun Morta above Levens

 

St-Antoine Chapel


Having hiked from the picturesque village of St-Blaise to Mont Cima a few years ago, we came across the idea to explore the trail north of the village towards Levens. Trails here are numerous and many of them are not even marked or signposted.

It was spring in Nice hinterland, only 15 km or so from Promenade des Anglais as the crow flies. 


Descending from St-Blaise
Descending from St-Blaise
Crossing St-Blaise Valley
Crossing St-Blaise Valley
Climbing to St-Antoine
Climbing to St-Antoine
Trail above St-Antoine
Trail above St-Antoine

From St-Blaise (~300 m) we descended along the streets passing a school to signpost #289. From here, we descended further in a dense verdant wood down to the St-Blaise Valley and crossed a stream along  an old narrow stone bridge. The following ascent to the hamlet of St-Antoine was equally rather steep but the trail was mostly good. We reached Chapelle St-Antoine de Siga near signpost #288, and continued the ascent behind the chapel, passing some curious gouts. Yellow markings were sporadic. In places, we continued very near the houses some of which looked like secondary residences.

We reached the paved Chemin du Pestrier and forked right as shown on the map. After about 400 m, after a bend, we located the trail  and headed northwest towards Ste-Petronille. There we briefly merged with a road again, walked past some nice properties and were guided by signpost #287 to the northeast. After about 300 m we came to an intersection where we forked left along an unmarked but good trail. Now heading north then northwest we climbed steadily in a pine wood and eventually started to see the Var River Valley before reaching a hill named Foun Morta (610 m) on maps. In spite of its rather modest elevation, we had great views from the hilltop.




Mont Cima seen from St-Antoine
Mont Cima seen from St-Antoine
Var River Valley seen from trail
Var River Valley seen from trail
Foun Morta view northwest
Foun Morta view northwest
Mercantour peaks seen from Foun Morta
Mercantour peaks seen from Foun Morta
Leaving Foun Morta
Leaving Foun Morta
Briefly joining the GR5 trail
Briefly joining the GR5 trail

On the way back, we headed east along a wide track and briefly merged with the GR5 trail and descended rapidly to signpost #285. There we forked right and headed back towards St-Blaise, following the itinerary used in the morning.

Distance: 8 km

Climb: 500 m

Duration: 3h 30

Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton Côte d’Azur


St-Blaise to Foun Morta track


Smoked salmon and cabbage-mayonnaise on toast

Smoked salmon and cabbage-mayonnaise on toast

 


This recipe is inspired by Bonjour, the morning TV of TF 1. A young chef made a simple but tasty lunch from Perigord’s best ingredients: hazelnut oil and smoked sturgeon. Perigord has some sturgeon farming but fishing wild sturgeon is forbidden. I have never seen smoked sturgeon in our shops in Nice, probably it goes straight to Paris gourmet restaurants, so I used smoked Alaska wild salmon instead.

The chef made mayonnaise from scratch by whipping together by hand organic egg yolk and Dijon mustard in equal amounts. Hazelnut oil was slowly poured, while whipping all the time, into a nice consistence. 

2 servings

4 slices whole wheat toast

4 slices smoked Alaska salmon

About a handful of grated white cabbage

For the mayonnaise:

1 organic egg yolk

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

Hazelnut oil, huile de noix


Toast the bread slices. Grate the cabbage. 


Make the mayonnaise. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolk and  mustard. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the oil into a nice consistence. Turn the grated cabbage in the mayonnaise.


Divide the cabbage- mayonnaise on the toast slices and place the salmon slices on top. Serve some green salad on the side.