Serre Chevalier: La Gardiole summit from Col du Granon

 

Viewing Grand Aréa from la Gardiole


We drove up to Col du Granon northeast of La Salle-les-Alpes (Serre Chevalier Valley) to explore hiking trails starting from there. The mountain pass in known for its ancient military presence as there is a fortification and Maginot Line bunkers. There are no ski runs on this side of the valley. The paved D234T road is narrow and sinuous. At the col, we found a vast parking where the elevation was marked at 2413 m, the maps say 2404 m. 

The forecast for the day was sun in the morning but rain showers in the afternoon, and we opted for a shorter itinerary via the summit of la Gardiole (2753 m).

Col du Granon Garrisons
Col du Granon Garrisons
Nice trail above Col du Granon
Nice trail above Col du Granon
Heading to Col des Cibières
Heading to Col des Cibières

Starting from the col, we headed northeast along a good signposted trail which followed a ridge to Col des Cibières (2525 m). At the col, which was a crossroads of several trails, we took the middle one (not signposted) towards la Gardiole. The final stretch was steep and rocky. On the summit, there was an observation post. We still had partly clear skies and were able to admire the 360° panorama of the southern Alps (The Ecrins Massif, Mont Thabor, Galibier etc).

From the mountain peak, we located the descending trail to the east then south. In the beginning, it was very steep with sliding rocks and gravel. In fact too steep for photography! We reached the main trail to Col de l’Oule (2546 m), and forked left (northeast). From the col, we descended a bit towards Grand Lac de l’Oule to a spot where we had a good view of the Alpine lake during our picnic.


La Gardiole in front of us
La Gardiole in front of us
Col des Cibières
Col des Cibières
Rocky stretch to la Gardiole
Rocky stretch to la Gardiole
Col du Granon seen from la Gardiole
Col du Granon seen from la Gardiole
View to west from la Gardiole
View to west from la Gardiole
View to north from la Gardiole
View to north from la Gardiole
Lac de l'Oule
Lac de l'Oule

We returned to the col then returned to the starting point along a path passing  some swampy stretches (black dotted line on the map). Most walkers seemed to use this option to the lake and back.


Climb: 370 m
Distance:7 km
Duration: 2h 45
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre Chevalier Montgenèvre

La Gardiole hike track



Vitello tonnato 2026

Vitello tonnato 2025

 

Vitello tonnato is a classic Italian dish in traditional trattorias. It has lately become chic in upscale Italian and Parisian restaurants.

The dish was created in Piedmont and was usually served as a first course. Combined with some good country bread and a green side salad it can be served as lunch or dinner in hot summer, preferably with a glass of chilled Italian white wine.

For the veal, they recommend quasi de veau, fillet of veal, which is the most tender. Some Italian recipes use also rond de veau, round steak of veal, piccata.

2 servings

About 300- 400 g fillet of veal

For the sauce:

1 organic egg yolk

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

4 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. lemon juice

30 g tinned tuna

2 minced anchovy fillets

2 tsp. capers

Freshly ground black pepper

For the decoration:

Chopped fresh herbs


Lightly colour the veal in a heavy casserole such as Le Creuset. Cover, reduce the heat to medium- low and cook for about 15- 20 minutes. The meat should still be a bit pink inside.  Let the meat get thoroughly cold by placing it for several hours in the refrigerator. Then cut into thin slices. 

Place the egg yolk in a dish. Slowly pour in the olive oil whisking all the time to make the mayonnaise. Place all the other ingredients and the maynnaise in a mixing dish and with a hand- held mixer obtain a smooth sauce.

Divide the veal slices on the plates and dot with the sauce. Decorate with fresh herbs.


Queyras: Col de Bouchet from Valpréveyre

Col de Bouchet Italian side
Col de Bouchet Italian side
Col de Bouchet French side
Col de Bouchet French side



We had previously hiked twice from the hamlet of Valpréveyre (1850 m), to the mountain passes of Malaure and Urine, both on the Italian border.

Today’s goal was Col de Bouchet (2626 m). The mountain pass is at the foot of Bric Bouchet (2997 m), an impressive summit dominating the landscape east of Valpréveyre.




Leaving Valpréveyre
Leaving Valpréveyre
Forest near Valpréveyre
Forest near Valpréveyre
Crossing Bouchet Torrent
Crossing Bouchet Torrent
Avalanche snow still in July
Avalanche snow still in July
Crossing last winter's avalanche
Crossing last winter's avalanche

The first part of the itinerary was the same as to Col de Malaure. We were surrounded by pristine nature soon after leaving the hamlet. At about 2000 m elevation, at the confluence of the Bouchet and Malaure torrents we came to a big mass of snow (It was early July!), apparently after an avalanche the previous winter. We hiked over it and saw our trail which dove into a larch wood. We reached a crossroads where fading yellow arrows instructed us to fork left. It turned out to be just a shortcut as we remembered that the crossroads with a signpost was a bit higher up.

We continued the ascent, heading northeast in open high-alpine terrain with Bric Bouchet in front of us. We passed another crossroads where we took the right-hand path. The left-hand path went to Col de Valpréveyre north of Bric Bouchet.


Larch wood above Bouchet Torrent
Larch wood above Bouchet Torrent
Bric Bouchet seen from trail
Bric Bouchet seen from trail
Bouchet Valley
Bouchet Valley
Final rocky trail to Col de Bouchet
Final rocky trail to Col de Bouchet
Final push to Col de Bouchet
Final push to Col de Bouchet

The last stretch to the col was very rocky and steep. We were lucky with the weather and could admire the panorama on both sides of the border. On the Italian side, there was a refuge named Nino Sardi just below the col. There was a half-tame ibex. The nebbia (fog/cloud on the mountain relief here)  reached the pass when we were already descending. We saw some marmots on the alpine meadow and met just a few other hikers.

We used the same itinerary back to our starting point, now via the signposted Malaure/Bouchet crossroads.


Col de Bouchet view Italy
Col de Bouchet view Italy
Ibex near Refuge Nino Sardi
Ibex near Refuge Nino Sardi

Climb: 800 m
Distance: 11 km
Duration: 5 h
Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St.Véran.Aguilles PNR du Queyras




Col de Bouchet hike track


Col de Bouchet under nebbia
Col de Bouchet under nebbia


Ristolas(Queyras): Hike to the Ségure Lake

Ségure Lake

 

Nesting high above and south of the Village of Ristolas (1600 m) in the Queyras Regional Park, the Lake Ségure (or Lacroix) at 2383 m can be reached along a good trail from Ristolas.

Ristolas leaving the hotel
Ristolas leaving the hotel
Trailhead to Lake Ségure
Trailhead to Lake Ségure
Above Ristolas
Above Ristolas
Track in Ségure Valley
Track in Ségure Valley

We started from our hotel ideally situated in the village centre, passing the church. We climbed about 30 m above the village and located the trailhead with a signpost. We ascended along a dirt track in the Ségure Valley above the homonymous torrent. The ascent was gentle but continuous, in places steep. We saw only a few other hikers. During the initial ascent there were great views to Ristolas and the summits in the east. Higher up, the impressive summits around the verdant valley dominated the landscape. The trail was mostly soft and well-marked.  

Most of the itinerary followed the dirt track. 1,3 km/40 min. before the lake, we forked left along a good path now above the tree line. The path continued above the picturesque lake a bit. We stopped for a break before returning to Ristolas along the same trail.


Ségure Valley and Torrent
Ségure Valley and Torrent
Path to Ségure Lake
Path to Ségure Lake
Ségure Valley seen from lake
Ségure Valley seen from lake


The valley is used for lamb farming. While we were at the lake, the shepherds had brought a flock of sheep and goats next to the track. While ascending , we met the shepherds and they told us that there are a lot of wolves in this region. The guarding dogs slept outside of the fence. This time, we stopped for a few minutes, talked to them. They soon excluded any danger from our side and went back to sleep!


Climb: 780 m
Distance: 14 km
Duration: 4h 50 active
Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran.Aguilles


Lake Ségure hike track
Lake Ségure hike track
Closeup of Lake Ségure
Closeup of Lake Ségure



Ristolas
Ristolas

Spring lamb

 

Spring lamb


Spring lamb, agneau de lait, is 3- 5 months up to 12 months old. It is very tender and pink in colour but not as flavourful as older not so tender lamb. I have never seen lamb sold as spring lamb in our supermarket in Nice, although some meat is lighter in colour in springtime. 

The following recipe gives flavour to any lamb and a splash of red wine tenderises the meat.

If you can, pick wild rosemary from the mountains for this recipe. Serve the lamb with sweet potato purée and fried white asparagus.

2 servings

About 300 g boneless spring lamb or 2 slices of lamb leg

5 tbsp olive oil

A bouquet of fresh rosemary and 2 rosemary sprigs for decoration

2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

100 ml red wine

1 medium sweet potato

10 sprigs of white asparagus

Freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 210° C roast.


Peel the sweet potato, chop it coarsely and cook in boiling water for about 20 minutes until soft. Drain keeping just 1 tbsp. of cooking water in the saucepan. Add 1 tbsp. very tasty olive, purée and cover with a lid to keep warm.


Wash and peel 8 sprigs of white asparagus. Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat in a frying pan and cook the asparagus for about 10 minutes until soft.


Cut the lamb into large pieces discarding the fat and bone. Place 3 tbsp. olive oil in a smallish oven-proof dish and turn the  lamb and garlic in it until well coated with oil.  Roast in the oven for 10 minutes in 210° C.


Remove the lamb from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 180° C. Pour the red wine over the lamb and add the rosemary bouquet between the lamb pieces. Roast for 15 minutes in 180° C.


Remove the lamb from the oven and grind over some black pepper. Serve the lamb over sweet potato purée with the white asparagus. Decorate with a sprig of rosemary.


Beuil: The scenic Plateau of St-Jean

 

Heading to Plateau St-Jean

We had earlier hiked on the Bergians Plateau south of Beuil. We now wanted to explore another variant passing through the Plateau of St-Jean Baptiste.

The drive to Beuil in the Cians River Valley is always an adventure even when you remember all the bends by heart. This time, in late spring, we stopped to admire the terracotta coloured vertical rocks covered with beautiful hanging white flowers (Image below).

We drove through Beuil to Les Launes and forked sharply left to the vast parking next to the Eguilles ski lift.

Gorges du Cians hanging flowers
Gorges du Cians hanging flowers
Leaving les Launes parking
Leaving les Launes parking
Forest under les Claus
Forest under les Claus
View across Cians Valley
View across Cians Valley
Path near Eguilles
Path near Eguilles

We started from signpost #17, heading southeast along a narrow unpaved road. At signpost #18, we forked left, still descending. We soon exited the dirt road and continued along a nice forest path. Gradually the incline became steeper and the path narrower when it undulated on southern flank of the mountain. We passed signpost #70, forking left here. We now headed east then straight north towards the plateau. Because of the heat on the south-facing flank and steep incline the stretch was a bit more challenging than anticipated.

Once above the forest, the path was less steep. We headed northwest along a grassy ridge reaching a viewing point at Les Claus (1750 m). In fact, there was an unobstructed panorama from everywhere on the vast plateau. Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste was on a nearby hill to the east.


Steep path to Plateau St-Jean
Steep path to Plateau St-Jean
Giarons across the Cians Valley
Giarons across the Cians Valley
Mont Mounier seen from les Claus
Mont Mounier seen from les Claus
Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste
Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste

We descended to sign post #57b then followed the marked path  near signpost #57a  but forked left before it. The path was a dotted line on the map and turned out to be a mountain biking and trail running itinerary. It followed an easy ski run and enabled a rapid descent back to our starting point.


Climb: 360 m
Distance: 7,2 km
Duration:  2h 50 active hiking
Map: 3640 OT Haut Cians/Valberg


Plateau St-Jean hike track