We drove up to Col du Granon northeast of La Salle-les-Alpes (Serre
Chevalier Valley) to explore hiking trails starting from there. The mountain
pass in known for its ancient military presence as there is a fortification
and Maginot Line bunkers. There are no ski runs on this side of the valley.
The paved D234T road is narrow and sinuous. At the col, we found a vast
parking where the elevation was marked at 2413 m, the maps say 2404 m.
The forecast for the day was sun in the morning but rain showers in the
afternoon, and we opted for a shorter itinerary via the summit of
la Gardiole (2753 m).
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Col du Granon Garrisons
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Nice trail above Col du Granon
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Heading to Col des Cibières
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Starting from the col, we headed northeast along a good signposted trail
which followed a ridge to Col des Cibières (2525 m). At the col, which was a
crossroads of several trails, we took the middle one (not signposted)
towards la Gardiole. The final stretch was steep and rocky. On the summit,
there was an observation post. We still had partly clear skies and were able
to admire the 360° panorama of the southern Alps (The Ecrins Massif, Mont
Thabor, Galibier etc).
From the mountain peak, we located the descending trail to the east then
south. In the beginning, it was very steep with sliding rocks and gravel. In
fact too steep for photography! We reached the main trail to Col de l’Oule
(2546 m), and forked left (northeast). From the col, we descended a bit
towards Grand Lac de l’Oule to a spot where we had a good view of the Alpine
lake during our picnic.
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La Gardiole in front of us
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| Col des Cibières |
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Rocky stretch to la Gardiole
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Col du Granon seen from la Gardiole
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View to west from la Gardiole
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View to north from la Gardiole
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| Lac de l'Oule |
We returned to the col then returned to the starting point along a path
passing some swampy stretches (black dotted line on the map). Most
walkers seemed to use this option to the lake and back.
Climb: 370 m
Distance:7 km
Duration: 2h 45
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre Chevalier Montgenèvre
Vitello tonnato is a classic Italian dish in traditional trattorias. It has lately become chic in upscale Italian and Parisian restaurants.
The dish was created in Piedmont and was usually served as a first course. Combined with some good country bread and a green side salad it can be served as lunch or dinner in hot summer, preferably with a glass of chilled Italian white wine.
For the veal, they recommend quasi de veau, fillet of veal, which is the most tender. Some Italian recipes use also rond de veau, round steak of veal, piccata.
2 servings
About 300- 400 g fillet of veal
For the sauce:
1 organic egg yolk
1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
4 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. lemon juice
30 g tinned tuna
2 minced anchovy fillets
2 tsp. capers
Freshly ground black pepper
For the decoration:
Chopped fresh herbs
Lightly colour the veal in a heavy casserole such as Le Creuset. Cover, reduce the heat to medium- low and cook for about 15- 20 minutes. The meat should still be a bit pink inside. Let the meat get thoroughly cold by placing it for several hours in the refrigerator. Then cut into thin slices.
Place the egg yolk in a dish. Slowly pour in the olive oil whisking all the time to make the mayonnaise. Place all the other ingredients and the maynnaise in a mixing dish and with a hand- held mixer obtain a smooth sauce.
Divide the veal slices on the plates and dot with the sauce. Decorate with fresh herbs.
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Col de Bouchet Italian side
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Col de Bouchet French side
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We had previously hiked twice from the hamlet of Valpréveyre (1850
m), to the mountain passes of Malaure and Urine, both on the Italian border.
Today’s goal was Col de Bouchet (2626 m). The mountain pass is at the
foot of Bric Bouchet (2997 m), an impressive summit dominating the landscape
east of Valpréveyre.
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Leaving Valpréveyre
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Forest near Valpréveyre
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Crossing Bouchet Torrent
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Avalanche snow still in July
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Crossing last winter's avalanche
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The first part of the itinerary was the same as to Col de Malaure. We were
surrounded by pristine nature soon after leaving the hamlet. At about 2000 m
elevation, at the confluence of the Bouchet and Malaure torrents we came to
a big mass of snow (It was early July!), apparently after an avalanche the
previous winter. We hiked over it and saw our trail which dove into a larch
wood. We reached a crossroads where fading yellow arrows instructed us to
fork left. It turned out to be just a shortcut as we remembered that the
crossroads with a signpost was a bit higher up.
We continued the ascent, heading northeast in open high-alpine terrain with
Bric Bouchet in front of us. We passed another crossroads where we took the
right-hand path. The left-hand path went to Col de Valpréveyre north of Bric
Bouchet.
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Larch wood above Bouchet Torrent
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Bric Bouchet seen from trail
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| Bouchet Valley |
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Final rocky trail to Col de Bouchet
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Final push to Col de Bouchet
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The last stretch to the col was very rocky and steep. We were lucky with the
weather and could admire the panorama on both sides of the border. On the
Italian side, there was a refuge named Nino Sardi just below the col. There
was a half-tame ibex. The nebbia (fog/cloud on the mountain relief
here) reached the pass when we were already descending. We saw some
marmots on the alpine meadow and met just a few other hikers.
We used the same itinerary back to our starting point, now via the
signposted Malaure/Bouchet crossroads.
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Col de Bouchet view Italy
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Ibex near Refuge Nino Sardi
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Climb: 800 m
Distance: 11 km
Duration: 5 h
Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St.Véran.Aguilles PNR du Queyras
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Col de Bouchet under nebbia
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Nesting high above and south of the Village of Ristolas (1600 m) in the
Queyras Regional Park, the Lake Ségure (or Lacroix) at 2383 m can be
reached along a good trail from Ristolas.
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Ristolas leaving the hotel
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Trailhead to Lake Ségure
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| Above Ristolas |
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Track in Ségure Valley
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We started from our hotel ideally situated in the village centre, passing
the church. We climbed about 30 m above the village and located the
trailhead with a signpost. We ascended along a dirt track in the Ségure
Valley above the homonymous torrent. The ascent was gentle but continuous,
in places steep. We saw only a few other hikers. During the initial ascent
there were great views to Ristolas and the summits in the east. Higher up,
the impressive summits around the verdant valley dominated the landscape.
The trail was mostly soft and well-marked.
Most of the itinerary followed the dirt track. 1,3 km/40 min. before the
lake, we forked left along a good path now above the tree line. The path
continued above the picturesque lake a bit. We stopped for a break before
returning to Ristolas along the same trail.
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Ségure Valley and Torrent
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Path to Ségure Lake
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Ségure Valley seen from lake
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The valley is used for lamb farming. While we were at the lake, the
shepherds had brought a flock of sheep and goats next to the track. While
ascending , we met the shepherds and they told us that there are a lot of
wolves in this region. The guarding dogs slept outside of the fence. This
time, we stopped for a few minutes, talked to them. They soon excluded any
danger from our side and went back to sleep!
Climb: 780 m
Distance: 14 km
Duration: 4h 50 active
Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran.Aguilles
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Lake Ségure hike track
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Closeup of Lake Ségure
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| Ristolas |
Spring lamb, agneau de lait, is 3- 5 months up to 12 months old. It is very tender and pink in colour but not as flavourful as older not so tender lamb. I have never seen lamb sold as spring lamb in our supermarket in Nice, although some meat is lighter in colour in springtime.
The following recipe gives flavour to any lamb and a splash of red wine tenderises the meat.
If you can, pick wild rosemary from the mountains for this recipe. Serve the lamb with sweet potato purée and fried white asparagus.
2 servings
About 300 g boneless spring lamb or 2 slices of lamb leg
5 tbsp olive oil
A bouquet of fresh rosemary and 2 rosemary sprigs for decoration
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
100 ml red wine
1 medium sweet potato
10 sprigs of white asparagus
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 210° C roast.
Peel the sweet potato, chop it coarsely and cook in boiling water for about 20 minutes until soft. Drain keeping just 1 tbsp. of cooking water in the saucepan. Add 1 tbsp. very tasty olive, purée and cover with a lid to keep warm.
Wash and peel 8 sprigs of white asparagus. Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat in a frying pan and cook the asparagus for about 10 minutes until soft.
Cut the lamb into large pieces discarding the fat and bone. Place 3 tbsp. olive oil in a smallish oven-proof dish and turn the lamb and garlic in it until well coated with oil. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes in 210° C.
Remove the lamb from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 180° C. Pour the red wine over the lamb and add the rosemary bouquet between the lamb pieces. Roast for 15 minutes in 180° C.
Remove the lamb from the oven and grind over some black pepper. Serve the lamb over sweet potato purée with the white asparagus. Decorate with a sprig of rosemary.
We had earlier hiked on the Bergians Plateau south of Beuil. We now
wanted to explore another variant passing through the Plateau of St-Jean
Baptiste.
The drive to Beuil in the Cians River Valley is always an adventure even when
you remember all the bends by heart. This time, in late spring, we stopped to
admire the terracotta coloured vertical rocks covered with beautiful hanging
white flowers (Image below).
We drove through Beuil to Les Launes and forked sharply left to the vast
parking next to the Eguilles ski lift.
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Gorges du Cians hanging flowers
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Leaving les Launes parking
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Forest under les Claus
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View across Cians Valley
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| Path near Eguilles |
We started from signpost #17, heading southeast along a narrow unpaved road.
At signpost #18, we forked left, still descending. We soon exited the dirt
road and continued along a nice forest path. Gradually the incline became
steeper and the path narrower when it undulated on southern flank of the
mountain. We passed signpost #70, forking left here. We now headed east then
straight north towards the plateau. Because of the heat on the south-facing
flank and steep incline the stretch was a bit more challenging than
anticipated.
Once above the forest, the path was less steep. We headed northwest along a
grassy ridge reaching a viewing point at Les Claus (1750 m). In fact, there
was an unobstructed panorama from everywhere on the vast plateau. Chapelle
St-Jean Baptiste was on a nearby hill to the east.
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Steep path to Plateau St-Jean
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Giarons across the Cians Valley
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Mont Mounier seen from les Claus
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Chapelle St-Jean Baptiste
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We descended to sign post #57b then followed the marked path near
signpost #57a but forked left before it. The path was a dotted line on
the map and turned out to be a mountain biking and trail running itinerary.
It followed an easy ski run and enabled a rapid descent back to our starting
point.
Climb: 360 m
Distance: 7,2 km
Duration: 2h 50 active hiking
Map: 3640 OT Haut Cians/Valberg