Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

Lentil soup was already mentioned in the Bible, and lentils were widely used in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. On the Riviera and in the Niçois backcountry, favas and chickpeas were the most important cultivated vegetables. Lentils and white beans are relative newcomers. Nowadays, several types of organic lentils are cultivated in France.

Lentils are a good source of vegetable protein, fibre, and antioxidants. They help to reduce LDL-cholesterol and blood sugar.

In my pantry, I always have dried organic red lentils, lentilles corail, dried Provençal herbs, olive oil, black pepper, and tomato paste. And in my refrigerator, organic chicken stock, a piece of parmesan, shallots, onions, and garlic. The secret for the great taste of this simple, quick to make soup lies in using good quality organic ingredients. Lentils do not need any soaking before cooking.

2 servings

120 ml dried red lentils

About 600 ml chicken stock

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 shallots or ½ onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A generous amount, about 2- 3 tbsp. tomato paste

About 6 tbsp. freshly grated parmesan

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

In a saucepan, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat and sauté the shallots and garlic for about 5 minutes.

Add the chicken stock, lentils, herbs, and black pepper and bring to a boil. Cook for 15 minutes until the lentils are soft.

Stir in the tomato paste and let warm thoroughly. Add some water if the soup feels too thick. 

Divide the soup into two bowls and sprinkle over the parmesan. Serve with a green side salad and some god country bread for a balanced meal.

On this clear but hazy day in early June we headed to Beuil. It was said that the odd colour of the skies was attributed to Canada wildfires smoke which had crossed the Atlantic.

Our goal was Tête de Giarons (2027 m), one of the verdant peaks south of Beuil. In this region, we had previously hiked to Tête de Perail, Tête de Pommier and Pin Pourri.

The scenic mountain massif  is located east of the Cians River. The summit of Tête de Giarons  is on the border of the communes of Beuil and Pierlas.

Crossing Cians River

Path above Cians Valley

Cians Valley

Path to Giarons

Giarons near signpost#74

Above Giarons

Beuil seen from trail

Nearing signpost#76

Tête de Giarons

Wild hawthorn in bloom

This springtime pasta recipe is easy to make but full of flavours.

2 servings

Whole wheat pasta, fusilli or penne, for 2

About 200 g cooked shrimp

About 6- 8 sprigs of green asparagus

Olive oil

1 shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

200 ml white wine

2 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat or cream

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate

Start with sautéing the shallot and garlic in 2 tbsp. olive oil in a saucepan. Add the wine and continue cooking until reduced by almost half. Just before serving, add the black pepper and whisk in the crème fraîche.

Peel and trim the asparagus. Cut them into about 4 cm long pieces. Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a skillet and sauté the asparagus for about 10 minutes until soft.

Cook the pasta according to the advice on the package. Drain and add to the skillet with asparagus.

If the shrimp are very large, cut them into halves. Add to the skillet for 1- 2 minutes to be reheated. 

Divide the sauce into the bottom of two bowls. Fold in the pasta, shrimp, and asparagus. Decorate with some fresh herbs.

The well visible but less visited summit of Mount Falourde (1306 m) can be best reached from the perched village of Bairols (850 m). Situated 7 km northwest of the confluence of the Tinée and Var rivers, the mountain’s southern flank is steep and precipitous. The northern face is mostly forested.

From Pont de Clans in the Tinée Valley, we drove to Bairols with a spacious   parking just before the village. The road was good albeit narrow in places with little traffic.

Start of trail to M Falourde

Bairols

Leaving Bairols

Mont Falourde

Nearing Pointe de l'Adret

Next to Pointe de l'Adret

Tinée and Var Valleys

Nearing Mont Falourde

Tinée Valley seen from M Falourde

This simple but tasty sauce works with any white fish such as cod, sea bass, halibut or monkfish. If you don’t have thick fat reduced crème fraiche in your shops you can use full fat cream.

In the photo, the halibut is served with black rice, lemon- caper sauce, and sautéed green asparagus which make a festive and colourful combination. But feel free to serve your fish with any good carbs and vegetable for a balanced meal.

2 servings

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

100 ml white wine

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat

3 tsp. capers

Warm the olive oil over medium-low heat in a saucepan. Sauté the shallot and garlic for 5- 10 minutes. 

Pour in the wine and lemon juice. Increase the heat and let bubble until reduced by half.

Just before serving, whisk in the crème fraiche and capers. Divide over the fish.

This recipe is inspired by Bonjour, the morning TV of TF 1. A young chef made a simple but tasty lunch from Perigord’s best ingredients: hazelnut oil and smoked sturgeon. Perigord has some sturgeon farming but fishing wild sturgeon is forbidden. I have never seen smoked sturgeon in our shops in Nice, probably it goes straight to Paris gourmet restaurants, so I used smoked Alaska wild salmon instead.

The chef made mayonnaise from scratch by whipping together by hand organic egg yolk and Dijon mustard in equal amounts. Hazelnut oil was slowly poured, while whipping all the time, into a nice consistence. 

2 servings

4 slices whole wheat toast

4 slices smoked Alaska salmon

About a handful of grated white cabbage

For the mayonnaise:

1 organic egg yolk

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

Hazelnut oil, huile de noix

Toast the bread slices. Grate the cabbage. 

Make the mayonnaise. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolk and  mustard. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the oil into a nice consistence. Turn the grated cabbage in the mayonnaise.

Divide the cabbage- mayonnaise on the toast slices and place the salmon slices on top. Serve some green salad on the side.

The following leisurely hike from Col de Bleine (1439 m) above Thorenc offers good tranquil trails, no livestock with guarding dogs,  great views and an easy access to the starting point.

We are in the Côte d’Azur Prealps above Grasse.

It took us about 1h 20 to reach the mountain pass from Nice. Our goal was Pic de l’Aiglo (1648 m on the signpost, 1644 m on the map) on the long ridge of Montagne de  Thorenc.

Col de Bleine

Leaving Col de Bleine

Haut-Esteron peaks seen from trail

Fôret Domaniale de Bleine

Thorenc mountain ridge

Thorenc seen from trail

Thorenc ridge water reservoir

Approaching Pic de l'Aiglo

Pic de l'Aiglo view east