Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

We wanted to explore the GR6/56 trail between the two villages. St-Paul sur Ubaye (1430 m) is the gateway to the upper Ubaye River Valley. Fouillouse (about 1900 m) is a popular starting point for hikes in the Chambeyron region. In fact, the highest peaks of the French southern alps (excluding the Ecrins Massif) are located here.

Near St-Paul sur Ubaye

Bridge over Ubaye River

GR56 near Ubaye Valley

Larch woods above Ubaye Valley

We followed the D25 road a bit, then forked right and followed the Ubaye River to the l’Estrech bridge, crossed the river and continued on the other side about 1,2 km. We reached a crossroads where we forked right and started to ascend in the woods. The markings were white/yellow for the GR trail all the way. After about 1800 m elev. the trail levelled out, and we reached a large alpine meadow. The village of Fouillouse was visible on the other side of the Fouillouse River, the peculiar relief of Brec de Chambeyron (3389 m) a bit further away. But the scenery across the Ubaye River was impressive as well, with several 3000+ peaks. In 1878, two alpinists from Fouillouse managed to climb to the summit of Brec de Chambeyron. But the next year, the famous alpinist Coolidge arrived in Ubaye and in a week conquered six 3000+ summits!

View northwest from GR56

Fouillouse in sight

Footbridge to Fouillouse

To reach the village, we descended a bit to a wood bridge, and passed the village church. There were a few places serving simple meals, and there seemed to be quite a few visitors given that it was early in the season. In St Paul sur Ubaye, everything was closed. We stopped at the first cafe/restaurant/grocery store for an omelette before hiking back.

Climb: 550 m

Duration: 4h 40

Distance: 12,7 km

Map: 3538 ET Aiguille de Chambeyron

Celebrity chefs are creating more and more recipes from lentils and beans. These are super healthy, help to prevent cardiovascular disease and diabetes, and have always been a part of Mediterranean diets. But they are still fairly new to gourmet cooking.

The following recipe is my twist of a recent TV-clip shown on the French TV’s evening news.

2 servings

About 120 ml dried green lentils

1 large burrata

For the sauce:

1 red paprika

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. olive oil

200 ml white wine

1 tsp. tomato purée

Freshly ground black pepper

A pinch of salt (optional)

Wash and halve a red paprika. Remove all the seeds. Roast in 210° C for 20- 25 minutes until the skin is somewhat blackened and easy to peel. Set aside to cool, then peel and chop.

Meanwhile cook the green lentils according to the advice on the package. Cover and set aside.

Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat in a saucepan and sauté the shallot and garlic for 5 minutes. Pour in the white wine and continue cooking for 5 more minutes until somewhat reduced. Add the red paprika, tomato purée, and some black pepper. With a handheld mixer, purée the sauce. Press it through a sieve into a smooth consistence.

Divide the lentils into a bed on the plates. Halve the burrata and place on top of the lentils. Divide the red sauce over the burrata. Serve with some green salad and good whole wheat bread for a balanced meal.

The Gordolasque Valley was less affected by the storm Alex in October 2020. Pont Countet at the end of the M171 road is an important gateway to the Mercantour National Park. Because other valleys remained closed or restricted, the rather limited parking of Pont Countet became over popular.

Pont Countet (1690 m) is also the nearest starting point for hikes to Refuge de Nice (2232 m). On the day of our hike in late September, the main parking was already largely taken by camping vans, leaving less space for hikers.

We planned to hike to the refuge and beyond. On our earlier hikes years ago, the upper Gordolasque Valley was occupied by numerous chamois, ibex and mouflon. Sadly, today we were able to spot one sole skinny chamois!

Pont Countet

Start from Pont Countet

Cascade by trail

Gordolasque Valley

Wall of the Italians

Starting from signpost #411, we headed north using the trail on the eastern side of the river. There’s a trail on the other side, too. Both merge after about 1,3 km (footbridge). We passed signpost #414 and the trail to Lac Authier. After this, our trail became steeper and rockier. Some stretches felt rockier than before. We passed the Wall of the Italians (Mur des Italiens) dating from the 15th Century when the trail functioned as a secondary salt route to Piemonte. It’s hard to understand which trail they took after this. None of the options were easy.

After the wall, a short easier and flatter part followed, but soon we were climbing steeply again. In fact, we had never before climbed this trail, only descended a few times after having done the loop via Lac Authier.

Trail after wall of Italians

Another rockslide in Gordolasque

Lac de la Fous and Refuge Nice

Submerged trail to Refuge Nice

Above Refuge de Nice

The dam of Lac de la Fous became visible. We merged with the GR52 trail at signpost #416. The old trail followed the shoreline of the lake. It now disappeared under water and there were apparently new rockslides. The new route followed the rocky slope a bit higher before turning towards the refuge. We continued a bit further, about halfway to Lac Niré for our break and picnic. We were under Mont Clapier (3045 m), the southernmost 3000+ peak of the Alps.

Climb: 610 m

Distance: 11,7 km

Duration: 5h 30

Map: Vallée de la Vésubie 3741OT

For this recipe, prefer eggs from free-roaming hens and responsibly caught tuna from fisheries which respect the local quotas and guarantee quality fish. Serve the dish with a green side salad and good whole wheat bread for a balanced meal.

2 servings

1 courgette

2 eggs

2 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat or cream

Olive oil

About 100 g (net weight) tinned tuna in brine

A handful of grated parmesan

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180° C.

Wash the courgette and cut into very thin slices.

Coat a non-stick oven-proof dish with olive oil. Divide the tuna and courgette slices in it. Whip the eggs with crème fraiche, black pepper, and parmesan and pour into the dish.

Bake for 25- 30 minutes. Serve at once.

The perched Village of Cipières (750 m) overlooking the Loup River Valley is a crossroads of several hiking trails. Both the GR4 and GR51 long distance trails run through the village.

We wanted to explore the GR51 south of the village to a hill named Collet des Graus de Pons. This short out and back hike is included in the Guide Randoxygène Moyen Pays, marked as easy.

Starting from Cipières

Cipières

Meadow south of Cipières

GR51 south of Cipières

We started from the village square (Signpost #26) , and headed south along the GR51 and GR4. We passed several properties and soon reached an intersection (Signpost #160) where the two GR trails separated. We took the left-hand GR51 path. We climbed gradually, mostly in an evergreen forest, crossing three small valleys named Pesses, Estrugue and Pourcelles, respectively.

We reached signpost #161 on Collet des Graus de Pons (1000 m). To view an old 3 m high borie, a stone hut, we had to descend a bit (about 50 m, signposted).

On both sides of the trail there were signs of ancient agricultural and pastoral activity here and there. It was an easy walk along beautiful and good trails. However, the terrain is karstic and sturdy hiking shoes are recommended.

GR51 in forest near Cipières

Nearing Collet des Graus de Pons

Cheiron massif seen from GR51

Collet des Graus de Pons

Large stone hut

Climb: 300 m

Duration: 3 h

Distance: 7,7 km

Map: 3642 ET Vallée de l’Estéron

Signpost#26 Cipières

Tarocco oranges are the famous blood oranges from Sicily. Their soft flesh is almost seedless, juicy, and sweet and the colour varies from orange with some light pink to deep ruby red. Their sea on is fairly short; from winter to spring.

In a French guidebook about Sicily, I happened to notice a local dish: risotto with tarocco and saffron. Because some sweet fruit goes very well with duck breast I got the inspiration for the following recipe. The combination was so delicious that this recipe is to be repeated whenever tarocco oranges are in season.

2 servings

1 duck breast, magret de canard

120 ml risotto rice

1 tarocco blood orange

Olive oil

1-2 shallots

1 clove garlic

150 ml white wine

1 dose saffron, in filaments

About 500 ml chicken stock

2 handfuls of grated Parmesan

Peel and chop the tarocco blood orange into fairly small chunks. Set aside, these will be added to the risotto when it is cooked at about the same time as the Parmesan.

Cook the risotto the classic way. Add the saffron to the risotto early when you start adding wine and stock to the risotto. Saffron filaments need time to develop their distinctive flavour in warm liquid and to give a nice colour to the dish. Cooking risotto takes about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile cook the criss-crossed duck breast over medium heat 10 and 8 minutes per side starting with the skin side. Place the duck on carving board and slice.

Divide the duck and risotto on the plates. Serve with some greens, for example fried courgette slices or steamed broccoli.

Pizzo Carbonara (1979 m), the second highest summit in Sicily after Etna, can easily be reached along marked trails from Piano Battaglia in the Madonie Regional Nature Park.

We bought the 3 € hiking map in Cefalù, but it gave a more general information about hikes in the Madonie, not detailed info about specific itineraries. We did some research beforehand and concluded that it is best to do the hike counterclockwise. The trail number was 551, and clearly marked white/red.

Meadow in Piano Battaglia

Trail551 leaving Piano Battaglia

Good markings to Carbonara

At Piano Battaglia parking there was a map showing the trail passing underneath the summit with a short un-marked path to the top of Piano Battaglia. We soon found out that this was incorrect because the marked trail 551 took us directly to the summit.

From the parking, we crossed a flat grassy meadow, heading northeast, first along a dirt track then a good trail. It soon turned to northwest alternating in the woods or in open terrain. We walked past a signpost saying “Pizzo Carbonara” 1 h, trail 551, then dove into another verdant wood. Higher up, there were more and more open areas. The trail was little frequented on the day of our hike. We saw more deer than humans! The relatively easy climb continued a bit more, and we turned north before the summit became visible in front of us.

Pizzo Carbonara 1h

Trail551 to Pizzo Carbonara

Approaching Pizzo Carbonara

The 551 trail went straight to the mountain top. We had a 360° panorama in spite of some haze. In addition, the nearby summits were almost as high as Carbonara.

We descended first heading west, then south where the 551 trail again ran through both some picturesque woods and rocky limestone terrain.

At about 1900 m elevation, we suddenly came to an intersection. A red and white marked trail forked sharply to the right, again no signpost, but we knew to ignore this and continued south.

At about 1730 m elevation, we came to another intersection (no signposts) where white and red marked trails separated (7 on the terrain map). We correctly thought that the right-hand trail descended to the lower parking by the S113 road. We forked left (east) and headed towards Piano Battaglia. The trail merged with the S113 road 500 m before our starting point. This trail was not shown on the map at the parking.

All in all, it turned out to be a great hike in pristine nature. We were even able to take some photos of a herd of deer .