Madonie, Sicily: Pizzo Carbonara

Pizzo Carbonara in sight


Pizzo Carbonara (1979 m), the second highest summit in Sicily  after Etna, can easily be reached along marked trails from Piano Battaglia in the Madonie Regional Nature Park.

We bought the 3 € hiking map in Cefalù, but it gave a more general information about hikes in the Madonie, not detailed info about specific itineraries. We did some research beforehand and concluded that it is best to do the hike counterclockwise. The trail number was 551, and clearly marked white/red.

Meadow in Piano Battaglia
Meadow in Piano Battaglia
Trail551 leaving Piano Battaglia
Trail551 leaving Piano Battaglia
Good markings to Carbonara
Good markings to Carbonara

At Piano Battaglia parking there was a map showing the trail passing underneath the summit with a short un-marked path to the top of Piano Battaglia. We soon found out that this was incorrect because the marked trail 551 took us directly to the summit.

From the parking, we crossed a flat grassy meadow, heading northeast, first along a dirt track then a good trail. It soon turned to northwest alternating in the woods or in open terrain. We walked past a signpost saying “Pizzo Carbonara” 1 h, trail 551, then dove into another  verdant wood. Higher up, there were more and more open areas. The trail was little frequented on the day of our hike. We saw more deer than humans! The relatively easy climb continued a bit more, and we turned north before the summit became visible in front of us.



Pizzo Carbonara 1h
Pizzo Carbonara 1h
Trail551 to Pizzo Carbonara
Trail551 to Pizzo Carbonara
Approaching Pizzo Carbonara
Approaching Pizzo Carbonara

The 551 trail went straight to the mountain top. We had a 360° panorama in spite of some haze. In addition, the nearby summits were almost as high as Carbonara.

We descended first heading west, then south where the 551 trail again ran through both some picturesque woods and rocky limestone terrain.

At about 1900 m elevation, we suddenly came to an intersection. A red and white marked trail forked sharply to the right, again no signpost, but we knew to ignore this and continued south.

At about 1730 m elevation, we came to another intersection (no signposts) where white and red marked trails separated (7 on the terrain map). We correctly thought that the right-hand trail descended to the lower parking by the S113 road. We forked left (east) and headed towards Piano Battaglia. The trail merged with the S113 road 500 m before our starting point. This trail was not shown on the map at the parking.

All in all, it turned out to be a great hike in pristine nature. We were even able to take some photos of a herd of deer . 


Pizzo Carbonara summit
Pizzo Carbonara summit
Pizzo Carbonara view southwest
Pizzo Carbonara view southwest
551 trail leaving Pizzo Carbonara
551 trail leaving Pizzo Carbonara
Deer near Pizzo Carbonara
Deer near Pizzo Carbonara
Coast seen from Carbonara trail
Coast seen from Carbonara trail

Climb: 400 m  
Distance: 7,7 km
Duration: 3h 15

Pizzo Carbobara track terrain

Pizzo Carbonara track sat


Autumn parmigiana

Autumn parmigiana


 This is a rich dish best served with some beef, like a nice fillet steak, on a dark evening. A glass of good red wine and a green side salad will complete the meal.


2 servings

1 aubergine

Olive oil

About 300 g tasty organic tomato sauce

A handful of basil leaves

1-2 cloves of garlic

2 handfuls of freshly grated parmesan

Freshly ground black pepper

About 100 g full fat goat cheese cut into small pieces 


Wash the aubergine and cut into thin slices. Fry them in olive oil over medium high heat on both sides until golden. Set aside. 


Preheat the oven to 210° C roast.


Oil an oven-proof dish with some olive oil. Place half of the aubergine slices in the bottom. Top with half of the basil leaves, some pressed garlic, black pepper, and half of the tomato sauce. Top with half of the goat cheese and parmesan. Follow with a second layer the same way.


Sprinkle with some olive oil and bake in the oven for 20 minutes. 


Madonie, Sicily: Hike to the Quacella Ridge

 

Etna seen from Quacella trail

When visiting the Madonie Park in Sicily, we had decided to do the Vallone Degli Angeli loop hike as it was considered one of the most popular walks in the region. A description in English can be read here. On the other hand, good topographic updated hiking maps are not available in Italy, signposts can be old and explanations unclear.

Start of hike SP119 road
Start of hike SP119 road
Soon after leaving trailhead
Soon after leaving trailhead
Shortcut path from trailhead
Shortcut path from trailhead

The trailhead (“Punto informazione sentiero” on Google maps at 1240 m elev.) in the forest was by the SP119 road, and was easy enough to find  when driving south from the northern coast. We were advised to use the road via Collesano (SP9) then SP54 to Portella Colla from where the SP119 descended to our starting point. There was a gate for official vehicles, and some information. 


We were alone, but two forest fire fighters appeared, opened the gate for their 4X4 and drove to the park. They were the only humans we met during the hike! We took a shortcut, climbing southeast and merged with the longer dirt track. After a while, we reached a crossroads (1390 m elev.) where the right-hand trail dove down to Vallone Degli Angeli. However, the text in Italian on the signpost indicated that the trail was closed due to maintenance. 


Polizzi Generosa viewed from trail
Polizzi Generosa viewed from trail
Madonna degli Angeli trail closed
Madonna degli Angeli trail closed
Crossroads after forest hut
Crossroads after forest hut
Trail forks to Quacella
Trail forks to Quacella

We did not want to take any risks and decided to continue the ascent along the less interesting dirt track. Heading east, we passed a forest hut then came to a crossroads where we continued straight, and after a few bends saw the trail to Quacella painted on the rock (red arrow and a white/red marking). Markings were first well visible in red and white. After another crossroads we followed a narrower trail marked by some red spots. We temporarily lost the trail about mid-way to the escarpment. Etna, 90 km away in the east became visible. We ascended to the ridge (about 1800 m elev.) with super views. We did not climb to the summit (1869 m).


On trail to Quacella
On trail to Quacella
Portella Colla seen from Quacella
Portella Colla seen from Quacella
Quacella southwest view
Quacella southwest view
Madona degli Angeli Valley
Madonna degli Angeli Valley
Nebrodi fir
Nebrodi fir

We descended to the beforementioned junction on the dirt track. We then made another detour along a wide trail heading southwest. We tried to locate the rare Nebrodi Firs, and maybe we saw some specimens!


We returned using the same itinerary but took the longer dirt track loop before reaching the starting point.


Climb: 690 m
Distance: 12 km
Duration: 4h 30



Quacella hike track

Kale, red rice and green lentils

 

Kale red rice and green lentils


Red rice has a nutty flavour and a high nutritional value due to its antioxidants, anthocyanins, which give the red colour. Red rice is now cultivated also in Camargue, in the South of France, so you can choose a local product. Most of the brown rice comes from Asia. 

Kale is one of the healthiest greens. And organic local kale is an even better choice for your dishes. 

The following recipe makes a nice, super healthy lunch in autumn and winter. By topping each bowl with a soft-cooked egg you can complete the vegetable proteins from lentils with some animal protein.

2 servings

4- 5 sprigs of organic kale

3 tbsp. olive oil

About 2 handfuls of cooked red rice

About 200 ml cooked green lentils

1 shallot, chopped

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

2 soft-cooked eggs

2 tsp. capers


Cook the red rice and green lentils according to the advice on the packages. Red rice needs about 40 minutes cooking time and green lentils normally about 25 minutes. Drain and set aside. 


Meanwhile wash the kale leaves. Warm the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat and cook the kale leaves for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the shallot, herbs, and some black pepper to the pan and continue cooking for about 5- 10 minutes. Stir now and again.  Add the rice and lentils to the pan and stir.


Divide the mixture into two bowls and top with a soft-cooked egg. Sprinkle the eggs with the capers and serve.


Cefalù, Sicily: La Rocca


Cefalu old town


The famous cliff ( 268 m), La Rocca, overlooking Cefalù, Sicily  certainly is one of the major attractions of the historical town located on the northern coast of the island.

We decided to hike up to the summit together with numerous other visitors on the first day of our visit.  Undoubtedly most hikers go there because of the magnificent views even though several medieval ruins can be explored by the trail and on the mountaintop.

Corso Ruggero Cefalu
Corso Ruggero Cefalu
Cefalu Cathedral
Cefalu Cathedral
Stairs in Cefalu
Stairs in Cefalu
Near viewing point above Cefalu
Near viewing point above Cefalu
View east from La Rocca Cefalu
View east from La Rocca Cefalu
View west from La Rocca Cefalu
View west from La Rocca Cefalu

We walked past the cathedral in the old town and soon forked left along the narrow streets. We reached the entrance area and paid the admission fee (5 € pp). After a few bends, we took a detour to a viewing point with a large cross facing the old town.

We then climbed to the summit along the left-hand trail where good hiking boots were a good idea as many stretches were rocky and a bit steep. The skies were clear and we could admire tens of km of the coastline in both directions as well as the Aeolian Islands in the northeastern horizon. 

On the way back, we took the other less steep trail to the crossroads before descending back to the busy Corso Ruggero.


Climb: About 250 m
Distance: 4 km
Duration: 2 h    


Cefalu La Rocca walk


Scallops with citrus sauce

 Scallops with citrus sauce


This elegant recipe is at its best in the Mediterranean winter when local citrus fruit are in season. Blood orange will give a delicious red colour to the citrus sauce. Serve the dish as a first course or a light lunch combined with some salad, goat cheese, and bread.

2 servings

6- 8 scallops

1 orange

½ lemon

1 tbsp. olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

A pinch of Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder

Chopped fresh herbs


Press the orange and lemon halve and cook the juices in a saucepan until reduced by half. 


Cook the scallops in 200° C oven for 4 minutes. Slice the scallops and divide on the plates.


Whisk the olive oil in the reduced citrus sauce. Grind in some black pepper. Pour the sauce over the scallops and sprinkle with a little piment d’Espelette. Decorate with some herbs and serve at once.


Cime de Restaud above Menton

Riviera coast seen from Cime de Reastaud

 

The most impressive coastal mountains in Alpes-Maritimes are located in the eastern part of the department, notably those bordering Italy.

We have frequently used the perched village of Castellar (350 m) above Menton as the starting point for our hikes. Having climbed up to Roc de l’Ormea (1132 m) some years ago, we now wanted to hike to the neighbouring Cime de Restaud (1148 m) on the Italian border.

Castellar
Castellar
GR51 above Castellar
GR51 above Castellar

Starting from Castellar (signpost #400 near the cemetery) , we first ascended along a steep paved road to signpost #401 where we forked right steeply, leaving the paved road. It was part of the GR51 trail and after passing some houses we started to climb in the woods south of  the Roc de l’Ormea massif. We reached signpost # 716 and took the left-hand trail to Col du Berceau. The ascent was steep all the way, with a lot of moving rocks on the trail. We remembered that it was nevertheless easier to climb than to descend.


Towards Col du Berceau
Towards Col du Berceau
Trail to Col du Berceau
Trail to Col du Berceau
Menton seen from Trail
Menton seen from Trail

At Col du Berceau (1080 m) we forked right (east) along an unmarked but clear trail and climbed to Cime de Restaud with a cairn and a small painted metal cross on the summit. The super panorama was 360°, and we were just a bit higher than the Roc de l’Ormea summit. Many hikers climb both summits as they can be easily reached from the col.


Nearing Col du Berceau
Nearing Col du Berceau
Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
View to north Cime de Restaud
View to north Cime de Restaud


We descended to signpost #12a on the col, forked right (north) and descended first along GR52 to signpost #407, passing old Castellar ruins. We reached a paved narrow road, descended further to signpost #95b near Mourga. We forked left and used the mostly paved road back to Castellar. 


Climb: 820 m
Distance: 9 km
Duration: 4 h
Map: “Nice Menton Côte d’Azur” 3742 OT

Cime de Restaud hike track