Madonie, Sicily: Hike to the Quacella Ridge

 

Etna seen from Quacella trail

When visiting the Madonie Park in Sicily, we had decided to do the Vallone Degli Angeli loop hike as it was considered one of the most popular walks in the region. A description in English can be read here. On the other hand, good topographic updated hiking maps are not available in Italy, signposts can be old and explanations unclear.

Start of hike SP119 road
Start of hike SP119 road
Soon after leaving trailhead
Soon after leaving trailhead
Shortcut path from trailhead
Shortcut path from trailhead

The trailhead (“Punto informazione sentiero” on Google maps at 1240 m elev.) in the forest was by the SP119 road, and was easy enough to find  when driving south from the northern coast. We were advised to use the road via Collesano (SP9) then SP54 to Portella Colla from where the SP119 descended to our starting point. There was a gate for official vehicles, and some information. 


We were alone, but two forest fire fighters appeared, opened the gate for their 4X4 and drove to the park. They were the only humans we met during the hike! We took a shortcut, climbing southeast and merged with the longer dirt track. After a while, we reached a crossroads (1390 m elev.) where the right-hand trail dove down to Vallone Degli Angeli. However, the text in Italian on the signpost indicated that the trail was closed due to maintenance. 


Polizzi Generosa viewed from trail
Polizzi Generosa viewed from trail
Madonna degli Angeli trail closed
Madonna degli Angeli trail closed
Crossroads after forest hut
Crossroads after forest hut
Trail forks to Quacella
Trail forks to Quacella

We did not want to take any risks and decided to continue the ascent along the less interesting dirt track. Heading east, we passed a forest hut then came to a crossroads where we continued straight, and after a few bends saw the trail to Quacella painted on the rock (red arrow and a white/red marking). Markings were first well visible in red and white. After another crossroads we followed a narrower trail marked by some red spots. We temporarily lost the trail about mid-way to the escarpment. Etna, 90 km away in the east became visible. We ascended to the ridge (about 1800 m elev.) with super views. We did not climb to the summit (1869 m).


On trail to Quacella
On trail to Quacella
Portella Colla seen from Quacella
Portella Colla seen from Quacella
Quacella southwest view
Quacella southwest view
Madona degli Angeli Valley
Madonna degli Angeli Valley
Nebrodi fir
Nebrodi fir

We descended to the beforementioned junction on the dirt track. We then made another detour along a wide trail heading southwest. We tried to locate the rare Nebrodi Firs, and maybe we saw some specimens!


We returned using the same itinerary but took the longer dirt track loop before reaching the starting point.


Climb: 690 m
Distance: 12 km
Duration: 4h 30



Quacella hike track

Kale, red rice and green lentils

 

Kale red rice and green lentils


Red rice has a nutty flavour and a high nutritional value due to its antioxidants, anthocyanins, which give the red colour. Red rice is now cultivated also in Camargue, in the South of France, so you can choose a local product. Most of the brown rice comes from Asia. 

Kale is one of the healthiest greens. And organic local kale is an even better choice for your dishes. 

The following recipe makes a nice, super healthy lunch in autumn and winter. By topping each bowl with a soft-cooked egg you can complete the vegetable proteins from lentils with some animal protein.

2 servings

4- 5 sprigs of organic kale

3 tbsp. olive oil

About 2 handfuls of cooked red rice

About 200 ml cooked green lentils

1 shallot, chopped

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

2 soft-cooked eggs

2 tsp. capers


Cook the red rice and green lentils according to the advice on the packages. Red rice needs about 40 minutes cooking time and green lentils normally about 25 minutes. Drain and set aside. 


Meanwhile wash the kale leaves. Warm the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat and cook the kale leaves for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the shallot, herbs, and some black pepper to the pan and continue cooking for about 5- 10 minutes. Stir now and again.  Add the rice and lentils to the pan and stir.


Divide the mixture into two bowls and top with a soft-cooked egg. Sprinkle the eggs with the capers and serve.


Cefalù, Sicily: La Rocca


Cefalu old town


The famous cliff ( 268 m), La Rocca, overlooking Cefalù, Sicily  certainly is one of the major attractions of the historical town located on the northern coast of the island.

We decided to hike up to the summit together with numerous other visitors on the first day of our visit.  Undoubtedly most hikers go there because of the magnificent views even though several medieval ruins can be explored by the trail and on the mountaintop.

Corso Ruggero Cefalu
Corso Ruggero Cefalu
Cefalu Cathedral
Cefalu Cathedral
Stairs in Cefalu
Stairs in Cefalu
Near viewing point above Cefalu
Near viewing point above Cefalu
View east from La Rocca Cefalu
View east from La Rocca Cefalu
View west from La Rocca Cefalu
View west from La Rocca Cefalu

We walked past the cathedral in the old town and soon forked left along the narrow streets. We reached the entrance area and paid the admission fee (5 € pp). After a few bends, we took a detour to a viewing point with a large cross facing the old town.

We then climbed to the summit along the left-hand trail where good hiking boots were a good idea as many stretches were rocky and a bit steep. The skies were clear and we could admire tens of km of the coastline in both directions as well as the Aeolian Islands in the northeastern horizon. 

On the way back, we took the other less steep trail to the crossroads before descending back to the busy Corso Ruggero.


Climb: About 250 m
Distance: 4 km
Duration: 2 h    


Cefalu La Rocca walk


Scallops with citrus sauce

 Scallops with citrus sauce


This elegant recipe is at its best in the Mediterranean winter when local citrus fruit are in season. Blood orange will give a delicious red colour to the citrus sauce. Serve the dish as a first course or a light lunch combined with some salad, goat cheese, and bread.

2 servings

6- 8 scallops

1 orange

½ lemon

1 tbsp. olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

A pinch of Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder

Chopped fresh herbs


Press the orange and lemon halve and cook the juices in a saucepan until reduced by half. 


Cook the scallops in 200° C oven for 4 minutes. Slice the scallops and divide on the plates.


Whisk the olive oil in the reduced citrus sauce. Grind in some black pepper. Pour the sauce over the scallops and sprinkle with a little piment d’Espelette. Decorate with some herbs and serve at once.


Cime de Restaud above Menton

Riviera coast seen from Cime de Reastaud

 

The most impressive coastal mountains in Alpes-Maritimes are located in the eastern part of the department, notably those bordering Italy.

We have frequently used the perched village of Castellar (350 m) above Menton as the starting point for our hikes. Having climbed up to Roc de l’Ormea (1132 m) some years ago, we now wanted to hike to the neighbouring Cime de Restaud (1148 m) on the Italian border.

Castellar
Castellar
GR51 above Castellar
GR51 above Castellar

Starting from Castellar (signpost #400 near the cemetery) , we first ascended along a steep paved road to signpost #401 where we forked right steeply, leaving the paved road. It was part of the GR51 trail and after passing some houses we started to climb in the woods south of  the Roc de l’Ormea massif. We reached signpost # 716 and took the left-hand trail to Col du Berceau. The ascent was steep all the way, with a lot of moving rocks on the trail. We remembered that it was nevertheless easier to climb than to descend.


Towards Col du Berceau
Towards Col du Berceau
Trail to Col du Berceau
Trail to Col du Berceau
Menton seen from Trail
Menton seen from Trail

At Col du Berceau (1080 m) we forked right (east) along an unmarked but clear trail and climbed to Cime de Restaud with a cairn and a small painted metal cross on the summit. The super panorama was 360°, and we were just a bit higher than the Roc de l’Ormea summit. Many hikers climb both summits as they can be easily reached from the col.


Nearing Col du Berceau
Nearing Col du Berceau
Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
View to north Cime de Restaud
View to north Cime de Restaud


We descended to signpost #12a on the col, forked right (north) and descended first along GR52 to signpost #407, passing old Castellar ruins. We reached a paved narrow road, descended further to signpost #95b near Mourga. We forked left and used the mostly paved road back to Castellar. 


Climb: 820 m
Distance: 9 km
Duration: 4 h
Map: “Nice Menton Côte d’Azur” 3742 OT

Cime de Restaud hike track


Eggs in ramekins à la Parisienne


Eggs in ramekins à la Parisienne


This recipe is my twist of the classic eggs in ramekins. I cooked the eggs in bain-marie in the oven which I think is much easier than bain-marie in a saucepan. 

I was inspired by a recipe in a French magazine. But why did they call it à la Parisienne? Maybe because it has mushrooms, champignons de Paris, and cooked ham, jambon de Paris? Anyway, it makes a nice lunch served with some good country bread and a green side salad.

2 servings 

2 large eggs

4 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat

4-6 mushrooms, sliced

1 shallot chopped

Olive oil

2 slices of cooked ham, chopped

½ tsp. piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder

Chopped parsley or chives


Preheat the oven to 180° C.


In a small frying pan, heat 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat. Fry the mushrooms and shallot for 10 minutes. Set aside.


Coat two individual ramekins with olive oil. Place 1 tbsp. crème fraiche in the bottom of each ramekin. Divide the ham and mushroom-shallot mixture in the ramekins. Crack 1 egg on top and add again 1 tbsp. crème fraiche. Sprinkle with piment d’Espelette.


For the bain-marie, boil water in a saucepan. Place  the ramekins in a small oven- proof dish and pour in boiling water until it reaches about halfway the ramekins. 


Place the bain-marie in oven and cook for about 20-25 minutes until the egg whites are set. Test with a toothpick; the whites are set when the toothpick comes out clean.


Decorate the ramekins with some chopped herbs and place on the plates. Serve with some good bread and a green side salad. 


Colle du Maçon

Colle du Maçon summit in sight


 There are no marked hiking itineraries up to Colle du Maçon (1417 m) from Col du Clapier (1257m), but several clearly visible paths nevertheless crisscross the long Maçon ridge.

We used Caussols as our starting point as the GR4 long-distance trail runs through the village. We had last year hiked along it to Col du Clapier on the way to Haut Montet. Several shortcuts and loops have been described by others, but inhabitants on the vast Caussols Plateau do not appreciate hikers passing through their private properties. Earlier, the GR4 used a more direct route to the south.

Design signpost
Design signpost
Leaving Caussols
Leaving Caussols
Colle du Maçon northern flank
Colle du Maçon northern flank
GR4 to Col du Clapier
GR4 to Col du Clapier
Wild orchids
Wild orchids

We headed south along GR4 passing signposts #30, 31, and 32. The first part was almost flat, and followed country roads in places. We had the mountain relief in front of us. The GR4 eventually turned to southeast, and we climbed to Col du Clapier.  The GR4 continued south to Grasse. We forked right (no markings), and ascended along the eastern flank of Colle du Maçon. Several parallel trails were visible. It was a long treeless mountain ridge with great views everywhere even on a partly  cloudy day.

The highest point was clearly  visible, and while heading there we passed some old ruins and what looked like pastoral areas.


Near Col du Clapier
Near Col du Clapier
Colle du Maçon eastern flank
Colle du Maçon eastern flank
Caussols Plateau
Caussols Plateau
Plateau de la Malle
Plateau de la Malle
Colle du Maçon summit
Colle du Maçon summit

The summit was marked with three cairns, the westernmost with a wooden cross. With met several groups of hikers and trail runners on the ridge. Locals seem to know this area well. We picnicked on the summit in spite of the chilly wind, admiring the coastline some 20 km to the south, before returning back to Caussols using the same itinerary.


Climb: 400 m
Distance: 12 km
Duration: 3h 40 
Map: «Haut Siagne» 3543 ET

Colle du Maçon hike track
Colle du Maçon hike track


Monkfish tail, queue de lotte


Monkfish tail and vegetables


Monkfish tail, queue de lotte, is a French speciality. Monkfish is an ugly-looking deep-sea fish found in the waters along the French coast. It has a large broad head and a wide mouth filled with sharp teeth.

Monkfish has a delicate, firm flesh and has been called “poor man’s lobster”. And you don’t need to worry about fish bones because there is only one: the backbone!

Monkfish tail is sold without the head and the careful fishmonger has already removed the dark skin and most of the second tough membrane. One tail is a suitable amount for two persons.

I prefer to cook the monkfish tail in the oven, 180° C for 40 minutes .It is a good idea to cover the tail with lemon or coppa slices and sprinkle with a little olive oil to prevent the fish from drying. The monkfish fillets are easy to lift along the backbone when the fish is done.

I serve the fillets with some vegetable stew which is easy to prepare while the fish is in the oven.

2 servings

1 monkfish tail

1 organic lemon, sliced

Olive oil 

1 organic bouquet garni poisson, dried herbs for fish

100 ml white wine

1 shallot, chopped

1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped

½ fennel, sliced

A handful of spinach leaves, washed and chopped

2 tsp. capers


Preheat oven to 180° C roast.


Place the fish in an oven-proof dish and cover with lemon slices. Sprinkle with some olive oil. Place the bouquet garni poisson in the dish and pour over 100 ml white wine. Roast for 40 minutes.


Meanwhile prepare the vegetables in a heavy saucepan. Sauté the sweet potato, fennel and shallot in olive oil over medium heat. Cover and reduce the heat to simmering. Cook for about 30 minutes adding a little water if needed. In the last 5 minutes add the spinach. 


When the fish is done, remove it from the oven. Cut the lemon slices into small pieces and place into a small bowl. Add the capers and a small amount of olive oil.

Divide the vegetables on the plates. Lift the fillets from the monkfish tail and placeon top of the vegetables. Sprinkle with lemon-capers.


Monkfish ready to oven
Monkfish ready to oven