Pié Martin loop variant (Tourrettes-sur-Loup)

Crossroads at signpost#187

 

The following loop hike is just an extension of the popular Pié Martin circuit above Tourrettes-sur-Loup (400 m).

Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Alley in Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Alley in Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Stonebridge over Vallon du Cassan
Stonebridge over Vallon du Cassan
Main road through village
Main road through village

Starting from the village, we passed the Chapelle Saint-Jean by the homonymous road, then continued along Route des Queinières  and Chemin Saint-Martin, all paved (Signposts #160, 161, 180, 181 and 183). At signpost #183 (1,6 km from the village square) we continued along a good trail to signpost #184/184bis and an intersection where we forked left towards Domaine de Courmettes. This is where we on our previous hikes took the right-hand path.


Trail after signpost183
Trail after signpost183
Domaine des Courmettes info
Domaine des Courmettes info
Bar sur Loup seen from trail
Bar sur Loup seen from trail
Trail between #184 and #187
Trail between #184 and #187
Tourrettes-sur-Loup seen from trail
Tourrettes-sur-Loup seen from trail

It turned out to be a good wide path with nice views down to the Loup River Valley in places. We reached the dirt track leading to the Domaine. We forked right (signpost #187), and headed along it northeast, passing the trail up to Pic de Courmettes. Descending gradually, we reached signpost #186 after about 1,1 km, forked right and descended to Pié Martin and further back to the Saint-Martin neighbourhood, closing the loop.


Climb: 490 m
Distance: 9,8 km (start from the main parking)
Duration: 3h 10
Map: “Cannes-Grasse” 3643ET


Pié Martin loop variant


Roasted potimarron with pasta and pecorino mousse

Roasted potimarron with pasta and pecorino mousse


The following simple but tasty recipe is inspired by a TV show on the French morning TV, Télématin. Their TV journalist visited the Negresco Hotel in Nice where the cheffe Virginie Basselot cooked her recipe. Since 2018, Virginie Basselot has been at the helm of the Negresco’s restaurants. 

My recipe is a twist of Virginie Basselot’s more refined recipe which she said was made for tout le monde, everybody. 

2 servings

Whole wheat pasta such as fusilli, penne, farfalle

½ potimarron

Olive oil

For the mousse:

1 small shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. olive oil

150 ml white wine

A generous handful of grated pecorino

3  tbsp. crème fraiche, 15 % fat

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Clean and slice the potimarron half. Place the slices in an oiled oven-proof dish and brush with olive oil. Roast for 25- 35 minutes until soft. Remove  from the oven and cut away the skin. Set aside until needed.


Meanwhile cook the pasta as advised on the package. 


For the mousse, sauté the shallot and garlic for about 10 minutes over medium-low heat. Add the white wine and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook until the wine has reduced by about a third. Whisk in the pecorino, crème fraiche, and some black pepper.


Drain the pasta and divide on the plates. Dot with the pecorino mousse and divide the potimarron slices on top. Decorate with some chopped fresh herbs.


Baou de la Gaude direct

 

View from Baou de la Gaude

We wanted to explore a direct trail from Saint-Jeannet up to Baou de la Gaude (796 m) which is the easternmost baou looming above the village.

We had observed a path on the southwestern flank of Baou de la Gaude which was not marked in any of our maps nor in any guides.

Spring flowers
Spring flowers
Village of Saint-Jeannet
Village of Saint-Jeannet
Baou de la Gaude
Baou de la Gaude
Start of trail
Start of trail
First part of trail
First part of trail

From the parking at the entrance of the village, we followed the GR51 about 250 m, heading east along Promenade de  Saint-Pétronille. We forked left to Chemin de Lucioles, and climbed along the narrow paved street about 300 m until we reached a narrow path on our right-hand side. There were green marks painted on rocks. We headed north, then northeast while the incline became steeper and steeper. To proceed, it became necessary to use your hands in many places. Nearing the summit, we temporarily lost the green markings. We continued straight up, found the markings again and the trail suddenly emerged to the summit. Using this path requires a good physical form, agility, and surefootedness. 


Getting steeper
Getting steeper
Scramble needed
Scramble needed
Narrow part of trail
Narrow part of trail
On western flank of Baou de la Gaude
On western flank of Baou de la Gaude
View to west from Baou de la Gaude
View to west from Baou de la Gaude
Famous old oak tree
Famous old oak tree

From the southern cliff of Baou de la Gaude we had super views down to Saint-Jeannet, the neighbouring baous, the Var River Valley and the coastline. After a well-deserved break, we headed north, now along well used trails, passing the famous old oak-tree and La Colle 844 m), the highest point of today’s hike. We reached signpost #75, then descended to signpost #76.

We forked left, heading south in Vallon de Parriau, descending to signpost #95 where we merged with the GR51 trail, and followed it back to Saint-Jeannet.


Distance: 7,1 km
Climb: 430 m
Duration: 2h 40


Baou de la Gaude direct


Red cabbage with oranges, cranberries, and walnuts

Red cabbage with oranges cranberries and walnuts


The sweetness of oranges and dried cranberries makes this winter vegetable side ideal for duck breast, magret. It will also go nicely with pork chops or turkey escalopes.

This vegetable dish is at its best in winter when the oranges from Southern Europe are in season.

2 servings

About ¼ of a red cabbage head

1 orange

2 tbsp. dried cranberries

A small handful of walnuts

2 tbsp. olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


Warm the olive oil over medium-low heat in a heavy cocotte, cast iron casserole. Finely slice the red cabbage and sauté covered in the casserole for about 20- 30 minutes together with the cranberries.


Peel the orange and cut into smallish chunks. Add to the casserole. Coarsely crush the walnuts and add to the casserole. Grind over some black pepper. Cover and continue cooking for about 5 minutes.


Serve with duck breast or other meat and decorate with some fresh herbs.


Exploring Haut-de-Cagnes

 

Chateau Grimaldi
Chateau Grimaldi

Haut-de-Cagnes is a medieval Riviera hilltop village famous for its artistic past. The village is well visible from the coast. The Grimaldi Castle, Château Grimaldi dominates the old town with its tower over 90 m asl.

We visited Haut-de-Cagnes on Victory Day when both the Château Musée Grimaldi and restaurants on the Place du Château were open. We parked in the centre of Cagnes-sur-Mer and walked through the town, first following traffic signs to Haut-de-Cagnes then ascended along a pedestrian itinerary. It was less than half an hour’s walk to the Place du Château.

Haut de Cagnes pedestrian route
Haut de Cagnes pedestrian route
Stairs to Haut-de-Cagnes
Stairs to Haut-de-Cagnes
Near Chateau Grimaldi
Near Chateau Grimaldi
Chateau Grimaldi ceiling
Chateau Grimaldi ceiling
Chateau Grimaldi inner court
Chateau Grimaldi inner court

We first visited the Château Musée Grimaldi which exhibits lesser-known artists. There is also a room dedicated to Suzy Solidor showing her portraits by various artists. She was a cabaret star/singer/actress whose career in Paris and on the Riviera continued half a century from the 1920s.

The castle itself is well preserved with a remarkable painted ceiling. From the tower, the 360° view is super.


View to east from castle tower
View to east from castle tower
View to southwest from castle tower
View to southwest from castle tower
View to northwest from castle tower
View to northwest from castle tower
Suzy Solidor portraits
Suzy Solidor portraits

According to a recent article in Nice Matin, there are still about twenty artists actively working in the village. They complained that the village lacks visitors because the access is difficult. Well, it’s a short walk from the town centre but involves climbing! There’s a free electric shuttle bus as well.

Haut-de-Cagnes is indeed very quiet compared with St-Paul-de-Vence which draws crowds. But St-Paul also has several art galleries and shops which are open every day whereas the artists in Haut-de-Cagnes only have open doors every first Sunday of the month. 


Before walking back, we had a nice relaxing lunch in one of the restaurants on the Place du Château.


Distance: 3,4 km including the museum


Climb: 110 m including the castle tower


Duration: Less than 1 h from Parking de la Villette to the Place du Château and back


Haut-de-Cagnes walk track
Haut-de-Cagnes walk track


Herbal white bean purée

 

Herbal white bean purée


It is always a good idea to have cooked white beans in your freezer. I always cook a large amount of white beans, just remember to soak them overnight, and freeze them in batches. These can then easily be incorporated in various stews or soups. They can also be puréed and used as a dip or a part of a salad.

2 servings for a lacto-vegetarian salad

2 handfuls of cooked defrosted white beans

50 ml tasty olive oil

Juice and zest of ½ organic lemon

A pinch of salt (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

A handful of chopped fresh organic herbs such as basil, chives, parsley, mint etc.


Place all the ingredients in a deep bowl and purée with a handheld mixer into a nice consistence. If needed, add 1-2 tbsp. of water. 


Divide the purée in the middle of the plates. Surround with baby salad leaves and parmesan shavings. Sprinkle over olive oil vinaigrette. Serve with some good whole wheat or rye bread for a carefree and super healthy lunch.


Caussols to Calern Observatory and Notre Dame de Calern


Côte d Azur Observatory

Collet de Maçon, our planned goal today, was covered with snow and we decided instead to hike along the GR4 towards the Côte d’Azur Observatory situated on the vast Calern Plateau. The southern flank of Sommet de Calern offered a certain microclimate on the sunny winter day, just a few days after a heavy snowfall.

Caussols Church
Caussols Church
GR4 to Calern
GR4 to Calern
Caussols Plateau seen from Calern
Caussols Plateau seen from Calern
Colle du Maçon
Colle du Maçon
Limestone formations Calern
Limestone formations Calern

From the Caussols Mairie parking, we crossed the D12 road (signpost #30) and followed the GR4. There was still a few patches of snow on the trail. Higher up, we passed the now familiar limestone formations. We reached signpost #50 on the plateau, and left the GR4. There were several paths leading to the observatory. We hiked along a trail near the precipice. The views were spectacular as far as to Mont Mounier in the north.


Haut Montet viewed from Calern
Haut Montet viewed from Calern
Mont Mounier seen from Calern
Mont Mounier seen from Calern
Montagne de Thiey and Sommet de Calern
Montagne de Thiey & Sommet de Calern
Cheiron Massif seen from Calern
Cheiron Massif seen from Calern
Cave entrance Calern
Cave entrance Calern
Notre Dame de Calern chapel
Notre Dame de Calern chapel

After our picnic, we returned to signpost #50 and continued along the GR4 about 300 m until we saw an unmarked trail up to Notre dame de Calern, a small chapel built inside a cave. From the cave entrance, a 10 m long tunnel led to the chapel which was behind a closed gate. A beautiful shrine!

We descended to the main trail and headed back to our starting point.


Climb: 250 m
Distance: 7.2 km
Duration: 2h 30 
Map: 3543 ET Haute Siagne


Caussols Calern trail