Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

This recipe is inspired by a lunch we once had in Bar des Oiseaux in Nice. There, the small cuttlefish was fried with cooked orzo and some rocket leaves were added to the dish. Simple but effective.

Because fresh small cuttlefish can be difficult to find I have replaced it with a small package of frozen mixed seafood, Fruits de Mer. According to the advice on the package, defrosted mixed seafood only need 4 minutes in a hot frying pan. If you cannot find orzo, you can replace it with similar small pasta shapes resembling large rice grains.

2 servings

Orzo for 2 servings

A small package, about 400 g, defrosted mixed seafood

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli

3 tbsp. olive oil

2 handfuls of baby rocket leaves

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and cook the shallot and garlic about 10 minutes until soft but not brown. With a slotted spoon, remove from the pan and set aside. 

Meanwhile cook and drain the orzo according to the advice on the package. Set aside.

Add 1 more tbsp. olive oil in the sauté pan and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook the defrosted seafood for 4 minutes stirring frequently. 

Add the orzo and Piment d’Espelette in the sauté pan and cook for a minute or two stirring all the time until the orzo is well coated with oil. 

Add the shallot, garlic, and rocket to the pan and mix well. Divide on the plates and serve.

Limone Piemonte (1010 m) has preserved much of its charm as an upscale Italian mountain resort.

On the day of our hike, a red warning for high temperature was effective in the region. We took advantage of the Severino Bottero Gondola near our hotel.

Bottero Gondola Limone

Terrasole Lake

Trail after Terrasole Lake

Roche de l'Abisse in morning haze

Limone slopes in summer

Fort Central in distance

Above Baita2000

Upper Salt Road

Campanin Pass 2142 m

Limone to Cime du Bec Roux track

Small stuffed vegetables, Petits farcis, are a classic dish in Nice. But you can also choose to stuff larger vegetables one type at a time. The following recipe with a  red wine and tomato sauce is perfect to make in autumn when we start craving dishes with stronger and more full-bodied tastes.

2 servings

about 250 g very lean ground beef, pref. 5% fat

2 courgettes 

A handful of cherry tomatoes

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

150 ml red wine

Olive oil

1 tbsp. tomato paste

1 tbsp. grated parmesan

1 tbsp. dried bread crumbs

1 egg

Freshly ground black pepper

Wash and dry the courgettes. Cut them in halves lengthwise and empty them with a melon scoop.

Make the stuffing by mixing the ground beef with egg, shallot, garlic, herbs, 2 tbsp. olive oil, and some ground black pepper.

Wash and halve the cherry tomatoes. Mix the tomato paste with the red wine.

Preheat the oven to 190° C, bake.

Spread 1 tbsp. olive oil in the bottom of an oven-proof dish. Pour the cherry tomato halves and the red wine- tomato- paste mixture in the dish.

Divide the stuffing in the courgettes and place them in the dish.

Mix the grated parmesan with the dried bread crumbs. Divide the mixture on top of the stuffing and sprinkle with some olive oil.

Cook in the oven about 45 minutes until the courgettes are soft. Then roast for 10 minutes in 210° C until the stuffing is golden brown.

Serve the stuffed courgettes with the tomato sauce and some brown rice.

According to some historians, the first road over the mountain pass of Tende, Col de Tende, was constructed by Phoenicians and later maintained by Greeks and Romans.

In the 19th Century, numerous forts were erected on both sides of the col by the Italians to protect the Piemont Region. By the end of the 19th Century, a road and railway tunnel was constructed.

Col de Tende

Near Col de Tende

Fort de la Marguerie

Under Fort Pernante

Fort Pernante

West of Fort Pernante

Roche de l'Abisse

Detour to Fort de Giaure

Detour trail higher up

Exposed part of trail Fort Giaure

At Fort de Giaure

Narrow trail near Fort de Giaure

This simple but satisfying dish makes a nice lunch or supper in autumn or winter. Any short pasta shapes such as fusilli or penne work in this recipe.

If you are in a hurry, use cooked white beans either from a jar or frozen white beans. The animal protein from prosciutto compliments the vegetable protein from beans.

For a colourful presentation, serve the dish in dark bowls.

2 servings

2 tbsp. olive oil 

1 small onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

About 200- 250 g cooked white beans

2 handfuls of baby spinach

4-5 slices of Prosciutto di Parma

About 8 black olives, sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

Whole wheat fusilli for 2 servings

Warm the olive oil over medium heat in a large sauté pan. Cook the onion and garlic for about 10 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the white beans to the pan. If using beans from a jar, rinse them under running water and drain before adding. 

Cut the prosciutto into smaller pieces and add to the pan. Add the spinach and sliced olives. Grind over some black pepper.

Meanwhile cook the pasta according to the advice on the package. Drain, add to the pan and mix. Divide the dish into the bowls.

In Auron, we wanted to explore a less frequented trail on a picturesque ridge, Crête de Bois Gaston. It turned out to be a good and efficient morning exercise. 

Sauma Longa viewed from Auron

Start in Bois Gaston

Bois Gaston Ridge

Mont Mounier in the south

We drove to the upper large paved parking (~1650 m) which was almost empty. We walked along a wide dirt track (easy ski slope in winter) to signpost #18, forked left and started to climb in Bois Gaston which mainly comprised a larch wood. The trail was good but very steep and in fact climbed continuously about 400 m before levelling off. Higher up, clearings gave us some very nice views down to Auron. Mont Mounier became visible in the south.

Bois Gaston Ridge higher up

Tinée Valley in morning haze

Mont Tenibre and Corborant

Bois Gaston Ridge steep trail

Last push to Sauma Longa

Near Sauma Longa

This colourful and tasty dish is perfect to make in late summer and early autumn when the local tomatoes are at their best. The recipe needs minimal cooking so it is ideal for hot summer evenings.

 Any firm-fleshed white fish works in this recipe; monkfish, halibut or cod. Serve with some black rice and decorate with fresh basil for a colourful contrast.

2 servings

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 small onion, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tasty tomatoes, finely chopped

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat or cream

200 g white fish fillet

200 g cooked and peeled giant prawns

Black rice for 2 portions

Chopped basil to decorate

Start by cooking the black rice which takes about 20 minutes. Drain and keep covered until needed.

Warm the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onion and garlic for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and Piment d’Espelette and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Whisk in the lemon juice and crème fraiche just before serving. 

Meanwhile roast the  fish fillet in 200°C for about 12 minutes until done.

Divide the black rice in the centre of the plates and the tomato sauce around the rice. Divide the fish fillet in 2 portions and place on top of the rice. Decorate with giant prawns and basil.

North of  Authion, several summits lie next to the GR52  trail soon after the Pointe des trois Communes and signpost # 410. 

We wanted to explore Cime de Tuor (2151 m,) well visible from Authion and with its steep southern flank quite impressive despite the elevation just 100 m or so more than that of Authion.

Cabane de Tueis

GR52 from Cabane de Tueis

Cime du Diable seen from Authion

Pointe des Trois Communes

Cime de Tuor northern flank

View east from Cime de Tuor

Steep northern flank Cime de Tuor

Cime de Tuor fore summit

GR52 south of Col de Raus