When visiting the Madonie Park in Sicily, we had decided to do the
Vallone Degli Angeli loop hike as it was considered one of the most
popular walks in the region. A description in English can be read here. On the other hand, good topographic updated hiking maps are not
available in Italy, signposts can be old and explanations unclear.
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Start of hike SP119 road
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Soon after leaving trailhead
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Shortcut path from trailhead
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The trailhead (“Punto informazione sentiero” on Google maps at 1240 m
elev.) in the forest was by the SP119 road, and was easy enough to
find when driving south from the northern coast. We were advised to
use the road via Collesano (SP9) then SP54 to Portella Colla from where the
SP119 descended to our starting point. There was a gate for official
vehicles, and some information.
We were alone, but two forest fire fighters appeared, opened the gate for
their 4X4 and drove to the park. They were the only humans we met during the
hike! We took a shortcut, climbing southeast and merged with the longer dirt
track. After a while, we reached a crossroads (1390 m elev.) where the
right-hand trail dove down to Vallone Degli Angeli. However, the text
in Italian on the signpost indicated that the trail was closed due to
maintenance.
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Polizzi Generosa viewed from trail
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Madonna degli Angeli trail closed
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Crossroads after forest hut
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Trail forks to Quacella
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We did not want to take any risks and decided to continue the ascent along the
less interesting dirt track. Heading east, we passed a forest hut then came to
a crossroads where we continued straight, and after a few bends saw the trail
to Quacella painted on the rock (red arrow and a white/red marking).
Markings were first well visible in red and white. After another crossroads we
followed a narrower trail marked by some red spots. We temporarily lost the
trail about mid-way to the escarpment. Etna, 90 km away in the east became
visible. We ascended to the ridge (about 1800 m elev.) with super views. We
did not climb to the summit (1869 m).
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On trail to Quacella
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Portella Colla seen from Quacella
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Quacella southwest view
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Madonna degli Angeli Valley
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| Nebrodi fir |
We descended to the beforementioned junction on the dirt track. We then made
another detour along a wide trail heading southwest. We tried to locate the
rare Nebrodi Firs, and maybe we saw some specimens!
We returned using the same itinerary but took the longer dirt track loop
before reaching the starting point.
Climb: 690 m
Distance: 12 km
Duration: 4h 30
Red rice has a nutty flavour and a high nutritional value due to its antioxidants, anthocyanins, which give the red colour. Red rice is now cultivated also in Camargue, in the South of France, so you can choose a local product. Most of the brown rice comes from Asia.
Kale is one of the healthiest greens. And organic local kale is an even better choice for your dishes.
The following recipe makes a nice, super healthy lunch in autumn and winter. By topping each bowl with a soft-cooked egg you can complete the vegetable proteins from lentils with some animal protein.
2 servings
4- 5 sprigs of organic kale
3 tbsp. olive oil
About 2 handfuls of cooked red rice
About 200 ml cooked green lentils
1 shallot, chopped
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
Freshly ground black pepper
2 soft-cooked eggs
2 tsp. capers
Cook the red rice and green lentils according to the advice on the packages. Red rice needs about 40 minutes cooking time and green lentils normally about 25 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile wash the kale leaves. Warm the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat and cook the kale leaves for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the shallot, herbs, and some black pepper to the pan and continue cooking for about 5- 10 minutes. Stir now and again. Add the rice and lentils to the pan and stir.
Divide the mixture into two bowls and top with a soft-cooked egg. Sprinkle the eggs with the capers and serve.
The famous cliff ( 268 m), La Rocca, overlooking Cefalù,
Sicily certainly is one of the major attractions of the
historical town located on the northern coast of the island.
We decided to hike up to the summit together with numerous other visitors on
the first day of our visit. Undoubtedly most hikers go there because of
the magnificent views even though several medieval ruins can be explored by
the trail and on the mountaintop.
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Corso Ruggero Cefalu
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| Cefalu Cathedral |
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| Stairs in Cefalu |
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Near viewing point above Cefalu
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View east from La Rocca Cefalu
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View west from La Rocca Cefalu
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We walked past the cathedral in the old town and soon forked left along the
narrow streets. We reached the entrance area and paid the admission fee (5 €
pp). After a few bends, we took a detour to a viewing point with a large
cross facing the old town.
We then climbed to the summit along the left-hand trail where good hiking
boots were a good idea as many stretches were rocky and a bit steep. The
skies were clear and we could admire tens of km of the coastline in both
directions as well as the Aeolian Islands in the northeastern horizon.
On the way back, we took the other less steep trail to the crossroads before
descending back to the busy Corso Ruggero.
Climb: About 250 m
Distance: 4 km
Duration: 2 h
This elegant recipe is at its best in the Mediterranean winter when local citrus fruit are in season. Blood orange will give a delicious red colour to the citrus sauce. Serve the dish as a first course or a light lunch combined with some salad, goat cheese, and bread.
2 servings
6- 8 scallops
1 orange
½ lemon
1 tbsp. olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder
Chopped fresh herbs
Press the orange and lemon halve and cook the juices in a saucepan until reduced by half.
Cook the scallops in 200° C oven for 4 minutes. Slice the scallops and divide on the plates.
Whisk the olive oil in the reduced citrus sauce. Grind in some black pepper. Pour the sauce over the scallops and sprinkle with a little piment d’Espelette. Decorate with some herbs and serve at once.
The most impressive coastal mountains in Alpes-Maritimes are located in the
eastern part of the department, notably those bordering Italy.
We have frequently used the perched village of Castellar (350 m) above
Menton as the starting point for our hikes. Having climbed up to
Roc de l’Ormea
(1132 m) some years ago, we now wanted to hike to the neighbouring
Cime de Restaud (1148 m) on the Italian border.
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| Castellar |
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GR51 above Castellar
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Starting from Castellar (signpost #400 near the cemetery) , we first ascended
along a steep paved road to signpost #401 where we forked right steeply,
leaving the paved road. It was part of the GR51 trail and after passing some
houses we started to climb in the woods south of the Roc de l’Ormea
massif. We reached signpost # 716 and took the left-hand trail to Col du
Berceau. The ascent was steep all the way, with a lot of moving rocks on the
trail. We remembered that it was nevertheless easier to climb than to descend.
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Towards Col du Berceau
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Trail to Col du Berceau
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Menton seen from Trail
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At Col du Berceau (1080 m) we forked right (east) along an unmarked but clear
trail and climbed to Cime de Restaud with a cairn and a small painted metal
cross on the summit. The super panorama was 360°, and we were just a bit
higher than the Roc de l’Ormea summit. Many hikers climb both summits as they
can be easily reached from the col.
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Nearing Col du Berceau
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Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
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Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
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| View to north Cime de Restaud |
We descended to signpost #12a on the col, forked right (north) and descended
first along GR52 to signpost #407, passing old Castellar ruins. We reached a
paved narrow road, descended further to signpost #95b near Mourga. We forked
left and used the mostly paved road back to Castellar.
Climb: 820 m
Distance: 9 km
Duration: 4 h
Map: “Nice Menton Côte d’Azur” 3742 OT
This recipe is my twist of the classic eggs in ramekins. I cooked the eggs in bain-marie in the oven which I think is much easier than bain-marie in a saucepan.
I was inspired by a recipe in a French magazine. But why did they call it à la Parisienne? Maybe because it has mushrooms, champignons de Paris, and cooked ham, jambon de Paris? Anyway, it makes a nice lunch served with some good country bread and a green side salad.
2 servings
2 large eggs
4 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat
4-6 mushrooms, sliced
1 shallot chopped
Olive oil
2 slices of cooked ham, chopped
½ tsp. piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder
Chopped parsley or chives
Preheat the oven to 180° C.
In a small frying pan, heat 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat. Fry the mushrooms and shallot for 10 minutes. Set aside.
Coat two individual ramekins with olive oil. Place 1 tbsp. crème fraiche in the bottom of each ramekin. Divide the ham and mushroom-shallot mixture in the ramekins. Crack 1 egg on top and add again 1 tbsp. crème fraiche. Sprinkle with piment d’Espelette.
For the bain-marie, boil water in a saucepan. Place the ramekins in a small oven- proof dish and pour in boiling water until it reaches about halfway the ramekins.
Place the bain-marie in oven and cook for about 20-25 minutes until the egg whites are set. Test with a toothpick; the whites are set when the toothpick comes out clean.
Decorate the ramekins with some chopped herbs and place on the plates. Serve with some good bread and a green side salad.
There are no marked hiking itineraries up to Colle du Maçon (1417
m) from Col du Clapier (1257m), but several clearly visible paths
nevertheless crisscross the long Maçon ridge.
We used Caussols as our starting point as the GR4 long-distance
trail runs through the village. We had last year hiked along it to Col du
Clapier on the way to Haut Montet. Several shortcuts and loops have been
described by others, but inhabitants on the vast Caussols Plateau do not
appreciate hikers passing through their private properties. Earlier, the GR4
used a more direct route to the south.
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| Design signpost |
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| Leaving Caussols |
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Colle du Maçon northern flank
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GR4 to Col du Clapier
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| Wild orchids |
We headed south along GR4 passing signposts #30, 31, and 32. The first part
was almost flat, and followed country roads in places. We had the mountain
relief in front of us. The GR4 eventually turned to southeast, and we
climbed to Col du Clapier. The GR4 continued south to Grasse. We
forked right (no markings), and ascended along the eastern flank of Colle du
Maçon. Several parallel trails were visible. It was a long treeless mountain
ridge with great views everywhere even on a partly cloudy day.
The highest point was clearly visible, and while heading there we
passed some old ruins and what looked like pastoral areas.
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Near Col du Clapier
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Colle du Maçon eastern flank
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| Caussols Plateau |
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Plateau de la Malle
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Colle du Maçon summit
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The summit was marked with three cairns, the westernmost with a wooden
cross. With met several groups of hikers and trail runners on the ridge.
Locals seem to know this area well. We picnicked on the summit in spite of
the chilly wind, admiring the coastline some 20 km to the south, before
returning back to Caussols using the same itinerary.
Climb: 400 m
Distance: 12 km
Duration: 3h 40
Map: «Haut Siagne» 3543 ET
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Colle du Maçon hike track
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Monkfish tail, queue de lotte, is a French speciality. Monkfish is an ugly-looking deep-sea fish found in the waters along the French coast. It has a large broad head and a wide mouth filled with sharp teeth.
Monkfish has a delicate, firm flesh and has been called “poor man’s lobster”. And you don’t need to worry about fish bones because there is only one: the backbone!
Monkfish tail is sold without the head and the careful fishmonger has already removed the dark skin and most of the second tough membrane. One tail is a suitable amount for two persons.
I prefer to cook the monkfish tail in the oven, 180° C for 40 minutes .It is a good idea to cover the tail with lemon or coppa slices and sprinkle with a little olive oil to prevent the fish from drying. The monkfish fillets are easy to lift along the backbone when the fish is done.
I serve the fillets with some vegetable stew which is easy to prepare while the fish is in the oven.
2 servings
1 monkfish tail
1 organic lemon, sliced
Olive oil
1 organic bouquet garni poisson, dried herbs for fish
100 ml white wine
1 shallot, chopped
1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped
½ fennel, sliced
A handful of spinach leaves, washed and chopped
2 tsp. capers
Preheat oven to 180° C roast.
Place the fish in an oven-proof dish and cover with lemon slices. Sprinkle with some olive oil. Place the bouquet garni poisson in the dish and pour over 100 ml white wine. Roast for 40 minutes.
Meanwhile prepare the vegetables in a heavy saucepan. Sauté the sweet potato, fennel and shallot in olive oil over medium heat. Cover and reduce the heat to simmering. Cook for about 30 minutes adding a little water if needed. In the last 5 minutes add the spinach.
When the fish is done, remove it from the oven. Cut the lemon slices into small pieces and place into a small bowl. Add the capers and a small amount of olive oil.
Divide the vegetables on the plates. Lift the fillets from the monkfish tail and placeon top of the vegetables. Sprinkle with lemon-capers.
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| Monkfish ready to oven |
The following loop hike is just an extension of the popular Pié Martin circuit above Tourrettes-sur-Loup (400 m).
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| Tourrettes-sur-Loup |
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| Alley in Tourrettes-sur-Loup |
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| Stonebridge over Vallon du Cassan |
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| Main road through village |
Starting from the village, we passed the Chapelle Saint-Jean by the homonymous road, then continued along Route des Queinières and Chemin Saint-Martin, all paved (Signposts #160, 161, 180, 181 and 183). At signpost #183 (1,6 km from the village square) we continued along a good trail to signpost #184/184bis and an intersection where we forked left towards Domaine de Courmettes. This is where we on our previous hikes took the right-hand path.
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| Trail after signpost183 |
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Domaine des Courmettes info
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| Bar sur Loup seen from trail |
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| Trail between #184 and #187 |
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| Tourrettes-sur-Loup seen from trail |
It turned out to be a good wide path with nice views down to the Loup River Valley in places. We reached the dirt track leading to the Domaine. We forked right (signpost #187), and headed along it northeast, passing the trail up to Pic de Courmettes. Descending gradually, we reached signpost #186 after about 1,1 km, forked right and descended to Pié Martin and further back to the Saint-Martin neighbourhood, closing the loop.
Climb: 490 m
Distance: 9,8 km (start from the main parking)
Duration: 3h 10
Map: “Cannes-Grasse” 3643ET
The following simple but tasty recipe is inspired by a TV show on the French morning TV, Télématin. Their TV journalist visited the Negresco Hotel in Nice where the cheffe Virginie Basselot cooked her recipe. Since 2018, Virginie Basselot has been at the helm of the Negresco’s restaurants.
My recipe is a twist of Virginie Basselot’s more refined recipe which she said was made for tout le monde, everybody.
2 servings
Whole wheat pasta such as fusilli, penne, farfalle
½ potimarron
Olive oil
For the mousse:
1 small shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp. olive oil
150 ml white wine
A generous handful of grated pecorino
3 tbsp. crème fraiche, 15 % fat
Freshly ground black pepper
Fresh herbs to decorate
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Clean and slice the potimarron half. Place the slices in an oiled oven-proof dish and brush with olive oil. Roast for 25- 35 minutes until soft. Remove from the oven and cut away the skin. Set aside until needed.
Meanwhile cook the pasta as advised on the package.
For the mousse, sauté the shallot and garlic for about 10 minutes over medium-low heat. Add the white wine and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook until the wine has reduced by about a third. Whisk in the pecorino, crème fraiche, and some black pepper.
Drain the pasta and divide on the plates. Dot with the pecorino mousse and divide the potimarron slices on top. Decorate with some chopped fresh herbs.
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