Cime de Restaud above Menton

Riviera coast seen from Cime de Reastaud

 

The most impressive coastal mountains in Alpes-Maritimes are located in the eastern part of the department, notably those bordering Italy.

We have frequently used the perched village of Castellar (350 m) above Menton as the starting point for our hikes. Having climbed up to Roc de l’Ormea (1132 m) some years ago, we now wanted to hike to the neighbouring Cime de Restaud (1148 m) on the Italian border.

Castellar
Castellar
GR51 above Castellar
GR51 above Castellar

Starting from Castellar (signpost #400 near the cemetery) , we first ascended along a steep paved road to signpost #401 where we forked right steeply, leaving the paved road. It was part of the GR51 trail and after passing some houses we started to climb in the woods south of  the Roc de l’Ormea massif. We reached signpost # 716 and took the left-hand trail to Col du Berceau. The ascent was steep all the way, with a lot of moving rocks on the trail. We remembered that it was nevertheless easier to climb than to descend.


Towards Col du Berceau
Towards Col du Berceau
Trail to Col du Berceau
Trail to Col du Berceau
Menton seen from Trail
Menton seen from Trail

At Col du Berceau (1080 m) we forked right (east) along an unmarked but clear trail and climbed to Cime de Restaud with a cairn and a small painted metal cross on the summit. The super panorama was 360°, and we were just a bit higher than the Roc de l’Ormea summit. Many hikers climb both summits as they can be easily reached from the col.


Nearing Col du Berceau
Nearing Col du Berceau
Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
Roc de l'Ormea seen from Restaud
Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
Ventimiglia seen from Restaud
View to north Cime de Restaud
View to north Cime de Restaud


We descended to signpost #12a on the col, forked right (north) and descended first along GR52 to signpost #407, passing old Castellar ruins. We reached a paved narrow road, descended further to signpost #95b near Mourga. We forked left and used the mostly paved road back to Castellar. 


Climb: 820 m
Distance: 9 km
Duration: 4 h
Map: “Nice Menton Côte d’Azur” 3742 OT

Cime de Restaud hike track


Eggs in ramekins à la Parisienne


Eggs in ramekins à la Parisienne


This recipe is my twist of the classic eggs in ramekins. I cooked the eggs in bain-marie in the oven which I think is much easier than bain-marie in a saucepan. 

I was inspired by a recipe in a French magazine. But why did they call it à la Parisienne? Maybe because it has mushrooms, champignons de Paris, and cooked ham, jambon de Paris? Anyway, it makes a nice lunch served with some good country bread and a green side salad.

2 servings 

2 large eggs

4 tbsp. crème fraiche 15% fat

4-6 mushrooms, sliced

1 shallot chopped

Olive oil

2 slices of cooked ham, chopped

½ tsp. piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder

Chopped parsley or chives


Preheat the oven to 180° C.


In a small frying pan, heat 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat. Fry the mushrooms and shallot for 10 minutes. Set aside.


Coat two individual ramekins with olive oil. Place 1 tbsp. crème fraiche in the bottom of each ramekin. Divide the ham and mushroom-shallot mixture in the ramekins. Crack 1 egg on top and add again 1 tbsp. crème fraiche. Sprinkle with piment d’Espelette.


For the bain-marie, boil water in a saucepan. Place  the ramekins in a small oven- proof dish and pour in boiling water until it reaches about halfway the ramekins. 


Place the bain-marie in oven and cook for about 20-25 minutes until the egg whites are set. Test with a toothpick; the whites are set when the toothpick comes out clean.


Decorate the ramekins with some chopped herbs and place on the plates. Serve with some good bread and a green side salad. 


Colle du Maçon

Colle du Maçon summit in sight


 There are no marked hiking itineraries up to Colle du Maçon (1417 m) from Col du Clapier (1257m), but several clearly visible paths nevertheless crisscross the long Maçon ridge.

We used Caussols as our starting point as the GR4 long-distance trail runs through the village. We had last year hiked along it to Col du Clapier on the way to Haut Montet. Several shortcuts and loops have been described by others, but inhabitants on the vast Caussols Plateau do not appreciate hikers passing through their private properties. Earlier, the GR4 used a more direct route to the south.

Design signpost
Design signpost
Leaving Caussols
Leaving Caussols
Colle du Maçon northern flank
Colle du Maçon northern flank
GR4 to Col du Clapier
GR4 to Col du Clapier
Wild orchids
Wild orchids

We headed south along GR4 passing signposts #30, 31, and 32. The first part was almost flat, and followed country roads in places. We had the mountain relief in front of us. The GR4 eventually turned to southeast, and we climbed to Col du Clapier.  The GR4 continued south to Grasse. We forked right (no markings), and ascended along the eastern flank of Colle du Maçon. Several parallel trails were visible. It was a long treeless mountain ridge with great views everywhere even on a partly  cloudy day.

The highest point was clearly  visible, and while heading there we passed some old ruins and what looked like pastoral areas.


Near Col du Clapier
Near Col du Clapier
Colle du Maçon eastern flank
Colle du Maçon eastern flank
Caussols Plateau
Caussols Plateau
Plateau de la Malle
Plateau de la Malle
Colle du Maçon summit
Colle du Maçon summit

The summit was marked with three cairns, the westernmost with a wooden cross. With met several groups of hikers and trail runners on the ridge. Locals seem to know this area well. We picnicked on the summit in spite of the chilly wind, admiring the coastline some 20 km to the south, before returning back to Caussols using the same itinerary.


Climb: 400 m
Distance: 12 km
Duration: 3h 40 
Map: «Haut Siagne» 3543 ET

Colle du Maçon hike track
Colle du Maçon hike track


Monkfish tail, queue de lotte


Monkfish tail and vegetables


Monkfish tail, queue de lotte, is a French speciality. Monkfish is an ugly-looking deep-sea fish found in the waters along the French coast. It has a large broad head and a wide mouth filled with sharp teeth.

Monkfish has a delicate, firm flesh and has been called “poor man’s lobster”. And you don’t need to worry about fish bones because there is only one: the backbone!

Monkfish tail is sold without the head and the careful fishmonger has already removed the dark skin and most of the second tough membrane. One tail is a suitable amount for two persons.

I prefer to cook the monkfish tail in the oven, 180° C for 40 minutes .It is a good idea to cover the tail with lemon or coppa slices and sprinkle with a little olive oil to prevent the fish from drying. The monkfish fillets are easy to lift along the backbone when the fish is done.

I serve the fillets with some vegetable stew which is easy to prepare while the fish is in the oven.

2 servings

1 monkfish tail

1 organic lemon, sliced

Olive oil 

1 organic bouquet garni poisson, dried herbs for fish

100 ml white wine

1 shallot, chopped

1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped

½ fennel, sliced

A handful of spinach leaves, washed and chopped

2 tsp. capers


Preheat oven to 180° C roast.


Place the fish in an oven-proof dish and cover with lemon slices. Sprinkle with some olive oil. Place the bouquet garni poisson in the dish and pour over 100 ml white wine. Roast for 40 minutes.


Meanwhile prepare the vegetables in a heavy saucepan. Sauté the sweet potato, fennel and shallot in olive oil over medium heat. Cover and reduce the heat to simmering. Cook for about 30 minutes adding a little water if needed. In the last 5 minutes add the spinach. 


When the fish is done, remove it from the oven. Cut the lemon slices into small pieces and place into a small bowl. Add the capers and a small amount of olive oil.

Divide the vegetables on the plates. Lift the fillets from the monkfish tail and placeon top of the vegetables. Sprinkle with lemon-capers.


Monkfish ready to oven
Monkfish ready to oven


Pié Martin loop variant (Tourrettes-sur-Loup)

Crossroads at signpost#187

 

The following loop hike is just an extension of the popular Pié Martin circuit above Tourrettes-sur-Loup (400 m).

Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Alley in Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Alley in Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Stonebridge over Vallon du Cassan
Stonebridge over Vallon du Cassan
Main road through village
Main road through village

Starting from the village, we passed the Chapelle Saint-Jean by the homonymous road, then continued along Route des Queinières  and Chemin Saint-Martin, all paved (Signposts #160, 161, 180, 181 and 183). At signpost #183 (1,6 km from the village square) we continued along a good trail to signpost #184/184bis and an intersection where we forked left towards Domaine de Courmettes. This is where we on our previous hikes took the right-hand path.


Trail after signpost183
Trail after signpost183
Domaine des Courmettes info
Domaine des Courmettes info
Bar sur Loup seen from trail
Bar sur Loup seen from trail
Trail between #184 and #187
Trail between #184 and #187
Tourrettes-sur-Loup seen from trail
Tourrettes-sur-Loup seen from trail

It turned out to be a good wide path with nice views down to the Loup River Valley in places. We reached the dirt track leading to the Domaine. We forked right (signpost #187), and headed along it northeast, passing the trail up to Pic de Courmettes. Descending gradually, we reached signpost #186 after about 1,1 km, forked right and descended to Pié Martin and further back to the Saint-Martin neighbourhood, closing the loop.


Climb: 490 m
Distance: 9,8 km (start from the main parking)
Duration: 3h 10
Map: “Cannes-Grasse” 3643ET


Pié Martin loop variant


Roasted potimarron with pasta and pecorino mousse

Roasted potimarron with pasta and pecorino mousse


The following simple but tasty recipe is inspired by a TV show on the French morning TV, Télématin. Their TV journalist visited the Negresco Hotel in Nice where the cheffe Virginie Basselot cooked her recipe. Since 2018, Virginie Basselot has been at the helm of the Negresco’s restaurants. 

My recipe is a twist of Virginie Basselot’s more refined recipe which she said was made for tout le monde, everybody. 

2 servings

Whole wheat pasta such as fusilli, penne, farfalle

½ potimarron

Olive oil

For the mousse:

1 small shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. olive oil

150 ml white wine

A generous handful of grated pecorino

3  tbsp. crème fraiche, 15 % fat

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Clean and slice the potimarron half. Place the slices in an oiled oven-proof dish and brush with olive oil. Roast for 25- 35 minutes until soft. Remove  from the oven and cut away the skin. Set aside until needed.


Meanwhile cook the pasta as advised on the package. 


For the mousse, sauté the shallot and garlic for about 10 minutes over medium-low heat. Add the white wine and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook until the wine has reduced by about a third. Whisk in the pecorino, crème fraiche, and some black pepper.


Drain the pasta and divide on the plates. Dot with the pecorino mousse and divide the potimarron slices on top. Decorate with some chopped fresh herbs.


Baou de la Gaude direct

 

View from Baou de la Gaude

We wanted to explore a direct trail from Saint-Jeannet up to Baou de la Gaude (796 m) which is the easternmost baou looming above the village.

We had observed a path on the southwestern flank of Baou de la Gaude which was not marked in any of our maps nor in any guides.

Spring flowers
Spring flowers
Village of Saint-Jeannet
Village of Saint-Jeannet
Baou de la Gaude
Baou de la Gaude
Start of trail
Start of trail
First part of trail
First part of trail

From the parking at the entrance of the village, we followed the GR51 about 250 m, heading east along Promenade de  Saint-Pétronille. We forked left to Chemin de Lucioles, and climbed along the narrow paved street about 300 m until we reached a narrow path on our right-hand side. There were green marks painted on rocks. We headed north, then northeast while the incline became steeper and steeper. To proceed, it became necessary to use your hands in many places. Nearing the summit, we temporarily lost the green markings. We continued straight up, found the markings again and the trail suddenly emerged to the summit. Using this path requires a good physical form, agility, and surefootedness. 


Getting steeper
Getting steeper
Scramble needed
Scramble needed
Narrow part of trail
Narrow part of trail
On western flank of Baou de la Gaude
On western flank of Baou de la Gaude
View to west from Baou de la Gaude
View to west from Baou de la Gaude
Famous old oak tree
Famous old oak tree

From the southern cliff of Baou de la Gaude we had super views down to Saint-Jeannet, the neighbouring baous, the Var River Valley and the coastline. After a well-deserved break, we headed north, now along well used trails, passing the famous old oak-tree and La Colle 844 m), the highest point of today’s hike. We reached signpost #75, then descended to signpost #76.

We forked left, heading south in Vallon de Parriau, descending to signpost #95 where we merged with the GR51 trail, and followed it back to Saint-Jeannet.


Distance: 7,1 km
Climb: 430 m
Duration: 2h 40


Baou de la Gaude direct


Red cabbage with oranges, cranberries, and walnuts

Red cabbage with oranges cranberries and walnuts


The sweetness of oranges and dried cranberries makes this winter vegetable side ideal for duck breast, magret. It will also go nicely with pork chops or turkey escalopes.

This vegetable dish is at its best in winter when the oranges from Southern Europe are in season.

2 servings

About ¼ of a red cabbage head

1 orange

2 tbsp. dried cranberries

A small handful of walnuts

2 tbsp. olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


Warm the olive oil over medium-low heat in a heavy cocotte, cast iron casserole. Finely slice the red cabbage and sauté covered in the casserole for about 20- 30 minutes together with the cranberries.


Peel the orange and cut into smallish chunks. Add to the casserole. Coarsely crush the walnuts and add to the casserole. Grind over some black pepper. Cover and continue cooking for about 5 minutes.


Serve with duck breast or other meat and decorate with some fresh herbs.