North of Authion, several summits lie next to the
GR52 trail soon after the Pointe des trois Communes and
signpost # 410.
We wanted to explore Cime de Tuor (2151 m,) well visible from Authion
and with its steep southern flank quite impressive despite the elevation just
100 m or so more than that of Authion.
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| Cabane de Tueis |
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GR52 from Cabane de Tueis
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Cime du Diable seen from Authion
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Pointe des Trois Communes
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From Cabane de Tueis parking (1889 m), we headed east following GR52
and ascended along a panoramic ridge. We passed some ruined barracks and
reached signpost #410 next to Pointe des trois Communes. We descended
to Baisse de St-Véran (1836 m) and climbed along the eastern flank of Cime
de Tuor to Col de Raus. Here we left the GR52.
Maps indicate a path to the summit but in reality it was almost
ingrown and invisible. A bit higher, we passed remnants of old bunkers. We
settled for the northern fore summit where we had our picnic before
returning to Col de Raus then back to our starting point.
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Cime de Tuor northern flank
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View east from Cime de Tuor
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Steep northern flank Cime de Tuor
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Cime de Tuor fore summit
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GR52 south of Col de Raus
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This itinerary which ran entirely above the tree line, offered panorama
views all the way. The southernmost 2500 m+ peaks (Such as Cime du Diable,
Mont Capelet Superieur) were just in front of us in the north. Choose a day
with good visibility when hiking in this region.
Climb: 710 m
Distance: 11,4 km
Duration: 4h 30
Map : 3741 OT Vallée de la Vésubie
I got inspiration for this Sicilian summer spaghetti, Spaghetti alla coppola, from the wonderful book On Persephone’s Island by Mary Taylor Simeti. In 1962, she went to Sicily where she married and raised two children.
In her book, she describes the authentic Mediterranean cuisine like it was in those times in Sicily. This summer spaghetti was one of the favourite summer dishes. The tomato sauce was made from fresh tomatoes and basil and the dish was topped with dark slices of fresh aubergine. The dish will make a perfect simple lunch on a hot summer day when the tomatoes are at their best.
Serve some goat cheese or parmesan shavings over your green side salad as this vegetarian pasta dish is very low in protein.
2 servings
3 tbsp. olive oil
1 small onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
3-4 very ripe tasty tomatoes, chopped
½ tsp. dried Provençal herbs
1 small aubergine, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
Spaghetti for 2 servings
Lots of chopped fresh basil
Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and start frying the aubergine slices until they are soft and dark on both sides.
Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a smaller frying pan over medium heat and sauté the onion and garlic for 10 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, Provençal herbs, and black pepper. Continue sautéing until the tomatoes have released the liquid and it has evaporated. Meanwhile cook the spaghetti and wash and chop the basil. Add some of the basil in the tomato sauce and save the rest for decoration.
Drain the cooked pasta and divide on the plates. Top with the tomato sauce and aubergine slices. Decorate with basil.
When hiking near Serre Chevalier the day before, we observed the cone-shaped light coloured peak of la Cucumelle (2698 m) in the northwest. Studying the map, we found out that a trail goes to the summit from the Col de la Cucumelle (2501 m).
We took advantage of the le Bachas chairlift which in the summer season ran from Monêtier-les-Bains (1440 m) to 2174 m.
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| Near Bachas chairlift |
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| GR54 near Bachas |
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| Grand Galibier seen from Bachas |
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| Col de l'Eychauda |
From the chairlift, we followed the GR54 trail south to Col l’Eychauda (2431 m). Most of the trail followed a wide dirt track which made the itinerary less interesting although the views were spectacular. Before Col l’Eychauda we had our goal on our left-hand side. The western flank of la Cucumelle was precipitous , and continued to the north as a ridge named Rocher du Grand Pre.
We ascended to Col de la Cucumelle. The steep trail to the summit was entirely visible on the almost white southern flank. Nearing the summit, the incline became steeper and steeper but the grip of our hiking shoes held on the slate rock surface. Not recommended in bad weather!
The narrow summit was marked with a wooden cross. Not surprisingly, the panorama was 360° with the nearest Monêtier glaciers in the west.
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| La Cucumelle southwestern flank |
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| Serre Chevalier viewed from la Cucumelle |
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| Col de la Cucumelle seen from summit |
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| View west from la Cucumelle |
We took the same trail back the starting point, minding every step below the summit. Another hiker first descended along the grassy albeit steep eastern flank to a trail below.
Climb: 530 m
Distance: 7 km
Duration: 3h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre
The following topping for fish is loosely based on a lunch we recently had in Majorca, the Balearic Islands. This topping will jazz up any limp and a bit tasteless white fish such as blue ling or haddock.
In the photo, the blue ling fillets are served with roasted yellow squash, black rice, and chopped basil.
2 servings
4 tbsp. crushed almonds or grilled hazelnut powder
1 clove garlic, pressed
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
Freshly ground black pepper
8 tinned anchovy fillets
2 tbsp. olive oil
Soak the anchovy fillets in water for about 10 minutes to remove some of the salt. Remove from water and crush into a paste in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mix into a nice paste.
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Place the fish fillets in an oven-proof dish coated with some olive oil. Divide the topping on the fillets and roast for 10 minutes.
We decided to explore the trails west of Serre Chevalier (2491 m), and based on last years’ experience we took advantage of the Casse du Boeuf chairlift from Villeneuve (1400 m) as we planned to do a shorter hike at a higher altitude.
The high starting point offers numerous itineraries. We had previously hiked to Serre Chevalier summit then down to the valley.
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| Casse du Boeuf chairlift |
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| Crete de Peyrolle |
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| Serre Chevalier western flank |
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| Scenery west of Serre Chevalier |
From the chairlift (2270 m), we climbed up to a crossroads at the foot of the northern flank of Serre Chevalier where took a good trail which ran along the western flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2381 m). Forking right (west), we continued along the southern flank of Crête de Serre Chevalier with great views to the south/southwest as well as to the east, over the Durance River Valley. This area was outside of the ski runs and lifts and therefore very attractive. We climbed a bit further to Col de la Pisse (2501 m) where some of the Ecrins glaciers could be admired in the northwest.
We used the same trail back to the starting point.
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| Nearing Col de Serre Chevalier |
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| View south Col de Serre Chevalier |
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| View northwest Col de Serre Chevalier |
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| Near Col de la Pisse |
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| Col de la Pisse 2501m |
Climb: 300 m
Distance: 6,2 km
Duration: 2h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre
The following chicken recipe is perfect in autumn when the days get darker and cooler and we crave warmer dishes. But it is just as suitable on a miserable and rainy spring day.
Roasting the chicken legs in oven with red wine and chicken stock gives tender and tasty chicken as well as a nice reduced red wine sauce. A light Bourgogne red or Chianti would go well with this recipe.
2 servings
2 free-range chicken legs
1 free-range chicken breast
2 medium potatoes
½ head of broccoli
Olive oil
150 ml red wine
150 ml chicken stock
1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
A pinch of salt
Fresh herbs to decorate
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Place the chicken legs in an ovenproof dish. Spread 2 tbsp. olive oil on the legs. Pour the red wine and chicken stock in the dish and roast for 45 minutes.
Meanwhile cook the chicken breast in a small frying pan and make the green purée.
Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a small non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Cut the chicken breast in halves lengthwise. Cook in the frying pan for 20 minutes turning once. Cover and set aside.
Peel the potatoes and cut them into pieces. Place in slightly larger saucepan and add water to cover the potatoes. Add the shallot and garlic and cook for about 15 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Drain, cover and set aside.
Cut ½ broccoli head into smaller pieces. Place in a saucepan with some water and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook for 5 minutes until soft. Transfer the broccoli into the potato saucepan reserving some of the cooking water. Add 1 tbsp. olive oil and a little cooking water and mix into a purée with a handheld mixer. If needed, add more water into a nice consistence.
For the presentation: Divide the reduced wine sauce from the ovenproof dish on the plates. Place the chicken legs and breast halves on the sauce. Arrange the green purée in the middle of the chicken pieces and decorate with chopped herbs.
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