When hiking near Serre Chevalier the day before, we observed the cone-shaped light coloured peak of la Cucumelle (2698 m) in the northwest. Studying the map, we found out that a trail goes to the summit from the Col de la Cucumelle (2501 m).
We took advantage of the le Bachas chairlift which in the summer season ran from Monêtier-les-Bains (1440 m) to 2174 m.
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| Near Bachas chairlift |
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| GR54 near Bachas |
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| Grand Galibier seen from Bachas |
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| Col de l'Eychauda |
From the chairlift, we followed the GR54 trail south to Col l’Eychauda (2431 m). Most of the trail followed a wide dirt track which made the itinerary less interesting although the views were spectacular. Before Col l’Eychauda we had our goal on our left-hand side. The western flank of la Cucumelle was precipitous , and continued to the north as a ridge named Rocher du Grand Pre.
We ascended to Col de la Cucumelle. The steep trail to the summit was entirely visible on the almost white southern flank. Nearing the summit, the incline became steeper and steeper but the grip of our hiking shoes held on the slate rock surface. Not recommended in bad weather!
The narrow summit was marked with a wooden cross. Not surprisingly, the panorama was 360° with the nearest Monêtier glaciers in the west.
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| La Cucumelle southwestern flank |
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| Serre Chevalier viewed from la Cucumelle |
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| Col de la Cucumelle seen from summit |
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| View west from la Cucumelle |
We took the same trail back the starting point, minding every step below the summit. Another hiker first descended along the grassy albeit steep eastern flank to a trail below.
Climb: 530 m
Distance: 7 km
Duration: 3h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre
The following topping for fish is loosely based on a lunch we recently had in Majorca, the Balearic Islands. This topping will jazz up any limp and a bit tasteless white fish such as blue ling or haddock.
In the photo, the blue ling fillets are served with roasted yellow squash, black rice, and chopped basil.
2 servings
4 tbsp. crushed almonds or grilled hazelnut powder
1 clove garlic, pressed
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
Freshly ground black pepper
8 tinned anchovy fillets
2 tbsp. olive oil
Soak the anchovy fillets in water for about 10 minutes to remove some of the salt. Remove from water and crush into a paste in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mix into a nice paste.
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Place the fish fillets in an oven-proof dish coated with some olive oil. Divide the topping on the fillets and roast for 10 minutes.
We decided to explore the trails west of Serre Chevalier (2491 m), and based on last years’ experience we took advantage of the Casse du Boeuf chairlift from Villeneuve (1400 m) as we planned to do a shorter hike at a higher altitude.
The high starting point offers numerous itineraries. We had previously hiked to Serre Chevalier summit then down to the valley.
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| Casse du Boeuf chairlift |
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| Crete de Peyrolle |
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| Serre Chevalier western flank |
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| Scenery west of Serre Chevalier |
From the chairlift (2270 m), we climbed up to a crossroads at the foot of the northern flank of Serre Chevalier where took a good trail which ran along the western flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2381 m). Forking right (west), we continued along the southern flank of Crête de Serre Chevalier with great views to the south/southwest as well as to the east, over the Durance River Valley. This area was outside of the ski runs and lifts and therefore very attractive. We climbed a bit further to Col de la Pisse (2501 m) where some of the Ecrins glaciers could be admired in the northwest.
We used the same trail back to the starting point.
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| Nearing Col de Serre Chevalier |
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| View south Col de Serre Chevalier |
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| View northwest Col de Serre Chevalier |
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| Near Col de la Pisse |
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| Col de la Pisse 2501m |
Climb: 300 m
Distance: 6,2 km
Duration: 2h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre
The following chicken recipe is perfect in autumn when the days get darker and cooler and we crave warmer dishes. But it is just as suitable on a miserable and rainy spring day.
Roasting the chicken legs in oven with red wine and chicken stock gives tender and tasty chicken as well as a nice reduced red wine sauce. A light Bourgogne red or Chianti would go well with this recipe.
2 servings
2 free-range chicken legs
1 free-range chicken breast
2 medium potatoes
½ head of broccoli
Olive oil
150 ml red wine
150 ml chicken stock
1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
A pinch of salt
Fresh herbs to decorate
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Place the chicken legs in an ovenproof dish. Spread 2 tbsp. olive oil on the legs. Pour the red wine and chicken stock in the dish and roast for 45 minutes.
Meanwhile cook the chicken breast in a small frying pan and make the green purée.
Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a small non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Cut the chicken breast in halves lengthwise. Cook in the frying pan for 20 minutes turning once. Cover and set aside.
Peel the potatoes and cut them into pieces. Place in slightly larger saucepan and add water to cover the potatoes. Add the shallot and garlic and cook for about 15 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Drain, cover and set aside.
Cut ½ broccoli head into smaller pieces. Place in a saucepan with some water and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook for 5 minutes until soft. Transfer the broccoli into the potato saucepan reserving some of the cooking water. Add 1 tbsp. olive oil and a little cooking water and mix into a purée with a handheld mixer. If needed, add more water into a nice consistence.
For the presentation: Divide the reduced wine sauce from the ovenproof dish on the plates. Place the chicken legs and breast halves on the sauce. Arrange the green purée in the middle of the chicken pieces and decorate with chopped herbs.
The following recipe makes a simple but tasty autumnal lunch when local figs are in season in the South of France. The sweet taste of figs compliments nicely with the tartness of goat cheese.
2 servings
4 slices of country bread
Olive oil
8- 10 mushrooms, champignons de Paris
6 figs
About 100 g goat cheese, la bûche de chevre
Baby salad leaves
Vinaigrette
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Cut 4 nice slices from a country bread and brush them on both sides with olive oil. Roast for about 7 minutes until golden.
Clean the mushrooms and slice them. Sauté in olive oil until nicely coloured.
Cut 8 slices from the goat cheese.
Wash and dry the figs. Cut them into 4 sections.
Divide the crostini on two large plates. Place 2 slices of goat cheese on each bread slice. Divide the mushrooms and figs on the crostini slices placing the extra figs on the plates. Sprinkle with some olive oil. Place a small handful of baby salad leaves on the plates and sprinkle with vinaigrette.
Several new hiking itineraries have been recently added to the randoxygène web site. We decided to check the loop starting from Beuil (Cougne 1440 m) to Col des Moulinés (1981 m).
We used the parking by the D30 road just before the bridge over the Cians River. After crossing the road, we saw the signpost #41 next to several old houses (Cougne on the map), and started to ascend along a narrow trail, passing several properties. Apparently, the trail had not been much used and was quite overgrown in places. We reached a partly forested ridge (Crête du pre Picas), now heading northwest.
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| Beuil-Cougne |
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| Above Cougne |
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| Tête du Garnier |
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| Trail to signpost#43 |
We came to signpost #43 and an ancient military track. We forked right, and followed it near Cime de Bacoun, which in fact looked more like hill surrounded by higher peaks. From there, our itinerary continued north along the eastern flank of Mont des Moulinés. Col des Moulinés became visible and we passed the crossroads with signpost #45 (our return trail). We climbed to the col which borders the Mercantour National Park and is an important crossroads of many trails. The GR5 trail runs via the mountain pass. In the north, Mont Mounier (2817 m) dominated the scenery.
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| Mont des Moulinés southern flank |
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| Beuil seen from Col des Moulinés |
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| Mont Mounier and the Col |
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Descent to Cians Valley
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The return trail followed the beautiful Cians River Valley all the way. The trail was mostly good and probably more used, too. We had to cross the riverbed a few times. It was dry but warnings had been placed at the crossings.
Map: 3640 OT “Haut Cians”
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