Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

This golden lemon chicken recipe is perfect to make on a cold winter day when we are longing for warm and sunny summer days. But it is just as delightful in spring with its refreshing lemon flavour.

4 servings

1 whole organic chicken, about 1,3- 1,5 kg

200 g organic pitted olives

2 medium onions

2 cloves garlic

2 doses saffron powder

1 lemon, peeled and cut into small pieces

Juice of 1 lemon

50 ml plus 2 tbsp. olive oil

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

400 ml chicken stock

2 handfuls of organic baby spinach leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate

In a bowl, mix olive oil, lemon juice, lemon pieces, Provençal herbs, black pepper, and saffron. Brush the chicken inside and outside with this mixture. Pour the rest of the marinade and lemon pieces inside the chicken. Place the chicken in the fridge for 30 minutes, then marinate in the room temperature for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 190°C roast.

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a heavy saucepan, cocotte, over medium- low heat. Peel and slice the onions, peel and mince the garlic. Add them to the cocotte and sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and the marinated chicken, increase the heat and bring to the boil.

Transfer the cocotte to oven and roast for 1,5 h basting regularly with the cooking liquid.

Towards the end of the roasting add the green olives and spinach to the saucepan. Continue cooking until the olives are heated and the spinach is wilted.

Carve the chicken and serve with rice mix or quinoa. If you are making this for only two persons, the leftovers can be used next day in chicken pilaf or served over pasta. 

Western Cheiron Ridge

 When we climbed to the Cheiron Ridge several years ago, we were interrupted by poor weather and visibility.

This time we chose a warm and clear (albeit hazy) September day for our hike.

The impressive steep southern flank of the long limestone ridge is well visible from many places on the coast. The highest point, Cime du Cheiron (1778 m) has antennas on the summit, and ski lifts from Gréolieres les Neiges near the summit on its northern side. All in all, we found the ridge more imposing than the summit itself! 

We started from signpost #30 in Gréolières (830 m) along the GR4 trail, passing the ruins of Hautes Gréolières. Most of the trail was very rocky. We came to signpost #193, forked left and continued the ascent along the GR4.

Gréolières viewed from GR4

The Loup Valley

GR4 after signpost 193

GR4 to Collet de Barri

Collet de Barri

At Collet de Barri (1370 m), we forked right (east), leaving the GR4. The newish signpost showed the itinerary to Cime du Cheiron, and the trail had yellow markings. We first ascended in a forest. Once above the tree line, we reached the beginning of the ridge and soon came to a new signpost #404a (not in our map). The masts on the summit became visible. There were now more cairns to guide us. 

We came to an antécime with a big cairn, then hiked to the mountain top with antennas less than 100 m away. There was ongoing maintenance, and men working. We did therefore not continue to the true summit nearby. From here and as well from the ridge, we nevertheless had a panorama view all the way to the coast. Even the St-Tropez Peninsula was visible through the haze.

We descended back to Gréolières, paying attention to moving rocks on the trail.

Signpost 404a Cheiron Ridge

Cheiron Ridge

Western flank of Cime du Cheiron

View south from Cheiron

Cime du Cheiron hike track

Modern Choron sauce

Choron sauce is basically the classic Béarnaise sauce with some tomato paste. It is often served with grilled meats. Like Béarnaise sauce, Choron sauce is high in saturated fat from butter and egg yolks. 

I have experimented various sauces by using only good, heart-healthy olive oil instead of butter. The following recipe is very tasty if made with quality ingredients; organic chicken stock, the very best Italian tomato sauce and balsamic vinegar, tasty olive oil such as Alziari from Nice.

This healthy Choron sauce goes very well with steaks, pork or veal chops, and roasted mackerel fillets.

2 servings

250 ml chicken stock

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. minced shallot

1 tsp. minced garlic

½ tsp. dried Provençal herbs

3 tsp. balsamic vinegar

3 tbsp. tomato sauce, pref. Italian passata

To be whisked in just before serving: 2 tsp. tasty organic olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.

In a saucepan, warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat and sauté the shallot and garlic for 5- 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock, Provençal herbs, balsamic vinegar, and the tomato sauce. Increase the heat somewhat and continue cooking until the sauce is reduced by about 1/3- ½. Remove the saucepan from heat and whisk in the tasty olive oil and black pepper.

Narrow part of Crête de Curlet

Facing St-Véran on the southern side of L’Aguie Blanche Valley, the northern face of Crête Curlet is a precipice.

A cross, la Croix de Curlet (2301 m elev.), was erected on the ridge in 1905 when a lost child from the village had been found there alive. The original cross was replaced in 1998. There is a clearing around it, and it is visible from St-Véran.

The hike up to the cross and the ridge is considered easy, suitable for families according to: https://www.envie-de-queyras.com/guide/la-croix-de-curlet

Crête de Curlet seen from St-Véran

In Bois du Moulin

Wolf and dog warning

Near Croix de Curlet

Croix de Curlet St-Véran

Trail leaving Croix de Curlet

Saint Véran viewed from Croix de Curlet

Sheep flock south of Crête de Curlet

Beautiful Crête de Curlet

Pic de Ch.Renard seen from Crête de Curlet

Descending in Bois du Moulin

Crête de Curlet hike track

Wolf footprint