Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

Western Cheiron Ridge

 When we climbed to the Cheiron Ridge several years ago, we were interrupted by poor weather and visibility.

This time we chose a warm and clear (albeit hazy) September day for our hike.

The impressive steep southern flank of the long limestone ridge is well visible from many places on the coast. The highest point, Cime du Cheiron (1778 m) has antennas on the summit, and ski lifts from Gréolieres les Neiges near the summit on its northern side. All in all, we found the ridge more imposing than the summit itself! 

We started from signpost #30 in Gréolières (830 m) along the GR4 trail, passing the ruins of Hautes Gréolières. Most of the trail was very rocky. We came to signpost #193, forked left and continued the ascent along the GR4.

Gréolières viewed from GR4

The Loup Valley

GR4 after signpost 193

GR4 to Collet de Barri

Collet de Barri

At Collet de Barri (1370 m), we forked right (east), leaving the GR4. The newish signpost showed the itinerary to Cime du Cheiron, and the trail had yellow markings. We first ascended in a forest. Once above the tree line, we reached the beginning of the ridge and soon came to a new signpost #404a (not in our map). The masts on the summit became visible. There were now more cairns to guide us. 

We came to an antécime with a big cairn, then hiked to the mountain top with antennas less than 100 m away. There was ongoing maintenance, and men working. We did therefore not continue to the true summit nearby. From here and as well from the ridge, we nevertheless had a panorama view all the way to the coast. Even the St-Tropez Peninsula was visible through the haze.

We descended back to Gréolières, paying attention to moving rocks on the trail.

Signpost 404a Cheiron Ridge

Cheiron Ridge

Western flank of Cime du Cheiron

View south from Cheiron

Cime du Cheiron hike track

Modern Choron sauce

Choron sauce is basically the classic Béarnaise sauce with some tomato paste. It is often served with grilled meats. Like Béarnaise sauce, Choron sauce is high in saturated fat from butter and egg yolks. 

I have experimented various sauces by using only good, heart-healthy olive oil instead of butter. The following recipe is very tasty if made with quality ingredients; organic chicken stock, the very best Italian tomato sauce and balsamic vinegar, tasty olive oil such as Alziari from Nice.

This healthy Choron sauce goes very well with steaks, pork or veal chops, and roasted mackerel fillets.

2 servings

250 ml chicken stock

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. minced shallot

1 tsp. minced garlic

½ tsp. dried Provençal herbs

3 tsp. balsamic vinegar

3 tbsp. tomato sauce, pref. Italian passata

To be whisked in just before serving: 2 tsp. tasty organic olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.

In a saucepan, warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat and sauté the shallot and garlic for 5- 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock, Provençal herbs, balsamic vinegar, and the tomato sauce. Increase the heat somewhat and continue cooking until the sauce is reduced by about 1/3- ½. Remove the saucepan from heat and whisk in the tasty olive oil and black pepper.

Narrow part of Crête de Curlet

Facing St-Véran on the southern side of L’Aguie Blanche Valley, the northern face of Crête Curlet is a precipice.

A cross, la Croix de Curlet (2301 m elev.), was erected on the ridge in 1905 when a lost child from the village had been found there alive. The original cross was replaced in 1998. There is a clearing around it, and it is visible from St-Véran.

The hike up to the cross and the ridge is considered easy, suitable for families according to: https://www.envie-de-queyras.com/guide/la-croix-de-curlet

Crête de Curlet seen from St-Véran

In Bois du Moulin

Wolf and dog warning

Near Croix de Curlet

Croix de Curlet St-Véran

Trail leaving Croix de Curlet

Saint Véran viewed from Croix de Curlet

Sheep flock south of Crête de Curlet

Beautiful Crête de Curlet

Pic de Ch.Renard seen from Crête de Curlet

Descending in Bois du Moulin

Crête de Curlet hike track

Wolf footprint

The choice of vegetables for this pasta reflects the season: choose roasted winter squash and pistou instead of fresh tomato sauce and basil leaves that you would choose in summer. Pistou is the traditional way of conserving fresh basil over winter in Provençe. It is a paste made from crushed basil leaves, olive oil, salt, and a dash of crushed garlic. It is still sold in small glass jars in the South of France. If you cannot find pistou in your shops, you can replace it with rocket pistou , the recipe follows. Rocket or arugula is a peppery salad, almost a herb, which survives low temperatures much better than the delicate basil even in the Mediterranean countries.  

2 servings

Wholewheat spaghetti or tagliatelle for 2 servings

1-2 handfuls of chopped winter squash

About 200 g chicken breast, cut into smallish pieces

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A handful of cherry tomatoes, halved

Olive oil

100 ml chicken stock 

Freshly ground black pepper

A handful of grated parmesan

       1-2 tbsp. pistou or rocket pistou

Recipe for rocket pistou:

A small handful of chopped rocket leaves

About 1 tbsp. olive oil

A pinch of salt

1/3 clove of garlic, minced

.

If you don’t have ready-made pistou and need to make rocket pistou, start with this. Crush all the ingredients in a mortar with a pestle. If needed, add a little more olive oil for a nice consistence. Keep refrigerated until needed.

Preheat the oven to 210° C, roast.

Place the chopped winter squash in a small oven-proof dish in single layer and mix with 1 tbsp. olive oil until coated.  Roast for about 25 minutes until soft.

Meanwhile sauté the chicken pieces in olive oil over medium heat for about 5- 10 minutes. Add the shallot, garlic, and cherry tomatoes. Continue sautéing for 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce the heat to simmering. 

Cook the pasta and grate the parmesan. Drain the cooked pasta, divide on the plates and fold in the parmesan with a fork. Top the pasta with with sautéd chicken and roasted winter squash. Sprinkle over the pistou or rocket pistou.

La Gardiole de l'Alp summit

In the Queyras Regional Nature Park, La Gardiole de l’Alp (2786 m) is an easily reached summit. Situated northeast of Molines-en-Queyras, the peak is less visited in summer but popular among ski tourers and snowshoers due to the topography of its grassy south-facing flank.

We took the D205 road from Molines-en-Queyras to Pierre Grosse (1915 m), and found a parking by the road near the village entrance.

La Gardiole de l'Alp seen from Sommet Bucher

Signpost Pierre Grosse

Leaving Pierre Grosse

Above Molines-en-Queyras view south

Easy start from Pierre Grosse

Above Pierre Grosse

Bergerie de l'Alp

Above Bergerie de l'Alp

View to west from Gardiole south flank

Rocky stretch before la Gardiole de l'Alp

Pic de Ch.Renard seen from northwest

Gardiole de l'Alp hike trail

Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs

Meaty chicken thighs with skin are tasty pieces of chicken and very versatile. The skin keeps the meat juicy during the cooking and can easily be removed on the plates as most of the chicken fat is directly under the skin.

Chicken thighs can be simply rubbed with olive oil before roasting or, as in this recipe, coated with a tasty sauce.

2 servings

4 chicken thighs with skin

Sauce:

2 tbsp. olive oil

Juice and zest of ½ organic lemon

2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Preheat the oven to 200°C, roast.

Place the chicken thighs in an oven- proof dish. Mix all the ingredients for the sauce and pour over the thighs. Roast for about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile wash 2 tomatoes, cut into halves and coat with breadcrumbs and some olive oil. Roast in the same dish as the thighs for 20 minutes.

Cook some wholewheat pasta and great a little parmesan.

Serve the chicken thighs with pasta and roasted tomato halves.