Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

Even so, if you start from St-Véran by foot as we did, you have to descend 150-200 m along the GR58 trail before reaching Pont du Moulin (1849 m). From the bridge, we ascended along the GR58, and after 450 m forked left along a PR (yellow-marked) trail to la Croix de Curlet. We ascended steeply in the woods (Bois du Moulin).  

We were aware of pasture areas south of the ridge (Cabanes de Lamaron).  There was the usual warning of sheep flocks but a bit later another one (image): wolves=patou dogs -those big white guardian dogs. We came to a clearing where a few sheep were roaming around. No dogs nearby. We saw a shortcut to the ridge and the cross, and took it, thus avoiding the flock. We reached the cross, right above St-Véran, with great views. A good trail continued along the ridge, ascending a bit. To our right, we soon saw the main sheep flock further away climbing under Pic Cascavelier at the end of the ridge.

Instead of doing a loop back along the meadows, we turned back to the cross after about 600 m. On the way back, we clearly saw some wolf footprints on the muddy trail (image), also those of a deer.

From the cross, we took another shortcut trail in Bois du Moulin. The trail merged with our main path. We descended back to the valley and climbed to St-Véran.

Climb: 600 m (when starting from St-Véran)

Duration: ~4 h

Distance: 7,3 km

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aguilles; PNR du Queyras

We walked through the village, heading west. After about 400 m, we came to a crossroads and an informative signpost where we forked right along a road named Lou Caire, passing several chalets. The itinerary then followed a dirt track, partly in the woods. After about 2 km we again forked right, and climbed more steeply, passing the Bergerie de l’Alp.

After the hut (no livestock on that day), we ascended in a vast Alpine meadow, heading northeast. The trail zigzagged in the open terrain, and was well marked with yellow sticks so that you always had the next one visible when climbing. Just before the summit we passed a short rocky and narrow stretch, nothing difficult. We only met two other hikers on the trail.

The summit was marked with a cross. Not surprisingly, we were rewarded with super views. The north-eastern flank was precipitous. The ridge trail continued south-east. 

We returned along the same trail, as planned in the morning. A somewhat longer option would have been a loop via Crête de Batailler to Col du Clot du Loup, and back to the starting point. 

Climb: 880 m

Distance: 11,5 km

Duration: 5h 20

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aiguilles PNR du Queyras

We ascended along the GRP* trail (yellow-red) named GRP Tour de la Dent de la Ratier, heading northwest. In the beginning, the incline was steep. We reached about 2200 m where the trail levelled off. We passed pasture areas with livestock, Lac des Clots and the Chapel St-Simon. After a short descent we came to Col des Prés de Fromage (2146 m), and a crossroads of several trails.

We left the GRP trail and headed straight north to the summit of Bucher along a yellow-marked trail. There were many parallel paths in the woods. There was a stone hut on the summit with orientation tables on both sides. Some treetops prevented a full 360° panorama, but the views were nevertheless excellent.

We used another trail for the short descent back to Col de Prés Fromage, then forked left (Molines par la Seiche) and descended in the forest via Clot Henri (a clearing with a renovated shepherd’s hut), reaching soon a wide gravel track. At la Seiche, there was a short but steep rocky stretch. We came to l’Aguie Agnelle stream, crossed a wooden bridge then forked right towards la Chalp. The trail first followed the stream, then ran next to the D5 for a few hundred meters, and before la Chalp continued in a meadow.

It turned out to be a great loop hike in beautiful mid-altitude surroundings. The return itinerary straight down to the valley then upstream back to la Chalp might be considered less interesting by some but enabled a loop hike. The other option is to hike back along the same trail.

Distance: 13 km 

Climb: 660 m

Duration: 5 h

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran.Aguilles; PNR du Queyras

*) Grande Randonnée de Pays, a regional trail, often a loop and shorter than a GR trail.

This time good weather was forecasted for the whole day, and we first descended along the GR58 from St-Véran to Pont du Moulin (1849 m), and crossed the l’Aguie Blanche torrent.

The continuous ascent started after the wooden bridge. We first followed a wide track, then a good path, and crossed the Torrent de Curlet. The incline became steeper. GR trails are very well marked (white-red) and this itinerary did not make an exception. We crossed another stream, and ascended a while in the woods before reaching beautiful Alpine meadow above the tree line. Our goal, Col des Estronques, was in sight. Some rocky stretches remained, nothing difficult or exposed. Apart from the rather short Alpine meadow, the trail was steep. 

The day remained clear with just some cumulus clouds, and we could admire the mountain range south of Ceillac as well as the 3000+m peaks in the north, such as Grand Glaiza and Bric Froid.

A trail went up to Tête de Jacquette (2757 m), the nearest mountain top east of the col. 

We took the same trail back to St-Véran. Depending on where you stay, the ascent from Pont du Moulin is 150-200 m.

Climb: ~950 m (ascent back to St-Véran included)

Distance: 11 km

Duration: about 5 h active

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aiguilles PNR du Queyras

*) https://www.envie-de-queyras.com/guide/gr58-tour-du-queyras

Day 1: Pas de l’Ane (2494 m)

From Monétier les Bains (1500 m), we took the Bachas chair lift up to 2174 m. In winter, it is the westernmost part of the big Serre Chevalier ski resort. The GR54 runs past le Bachas. 

We followed the GR54 to the south, ascending a bit. It was basically a wide track. After about one km, we forked right, first following another gravel track, then a path. The scenery was surprisingly wild and the incline became steep before the col. The mountain pass too was narrow and steep. The nearest glaciers were less than 3 km away in the west.

We descended back to the Bachas chairlift, first along the same trail, then took a shortcut along some unofficial trails and meadows.

Distance: 4 km 

Climb: 340 m

Duration: 2h

The long chairlift named Casse du Boeuf runs from the village of Villeneuve (1400 m) to about 2300 m. We paid 10,10€ p.p. for the ride (same as Bachas). We were in the middle of paths, tracks, ski lifts and of course mountain bike trails. The mountain peak of Serre Chevalier was still a bit above us in the south. We followed a trail which circled under its southern flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2383 m), then forked left and climbed to the fairly crowded summit, where we could again admire the glaciers in the west and Mount Chaberton on the Italian border, still with fresh snow after the previous night’s storm.

We descended to the restaurant near our chair lift for lunch, then used the long and beautiful forest trail via Clot de l’Aravet and Goudissard (well signposted) back to Villeneuve.

Distance: 11,6 km

Climb: 270 m

Descent: 1130 m

Duration: 4h 45