Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

Optical telegraph post Chambrettes

Situated in the Queyras Regional Nature Park, Ceillac is a true hikers’ mecca. A few days’ stay is just not enough to explore all the opportunities.

The following hike features a great loop above Ceillac, circling via the Chambrettes Ridge, Crête des Chambrettes. 

As late as in 1899/1900, the French army built a chain of optical telegraph posts* in the Alps. The purpose was to communicate between Nice and Lake Geneva (and beyond). One of these posts was built on Crête des Chambrettes on a spot where the ridge (2555 m) is narrow, only about 100 m from the highest point (2582 m).

GR58 above Ceillac

Near Col de Bramousse

Col de Bramousse

Above Col de Bramousse

Jean Grossan lookout point

Cristillan Valley

Peaks south of Ceillac

Ceillac seen from Crête des Chambrettes

Eastern Crête des Chambrettes

Near summit of Crête des Chambrettes

View west from Crête des Chambrettes

Return from Col Fromage

Crête des Chambrettes hike track

Mackerel is a good source of heart- healthy omega- 3 fatty acids. Being low in the food chain, it accumulates much less toxins and heavy metals than tuna or swordfish. If you find fresh mackerel fillets in your shops, this is a recipe to try.

2 servings

2- 3 mackerel fillets

10- 12 cherry tomatoes, halved

3 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tsp. small capers

Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Whole wheat spaghetti for 2 servings

A good handful of chopped basil

Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast. Roast the mackerel fillets, skin side up, for 10 minutes. Remove the skin and cut the mackerel into smaller pieces. Set aside.

Meanwhile cook the spaghetti according to the advice on the package.

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and sauté the cherry tomatoes, shallots, and garlic for 10 minutes. Add the capers, black pepper and the cooked and drained spaghetti and mix. Fold in the mackerel pieces and basil. Divide into bowls and serve.

These tasty small open sandwiches make a light lunch served with some green side salad. You could add some hummus with the salad.

2 servings

4 small slices of soft and fresh rye bread

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 red bell pepper, sliced

1 green bell pepper, sliced

2 tasty tomatoes, sliced

4 slices of low- fat goat cheese

Warm the olive oil over medium heat in a frying pan. Sauté the vegetables until soft.

Divide the vegetables on the bread slices and top with goat cheese.

For this recipe, you can use any tasty, firm- fleshed white fish fillets such as halibut, sea bass, cod, blue ling and so on. Start with the vegetable bouillabaisse as it takes about an hour to make, preparation included. The fish is cooked in the oven in about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of fillets.

2 servings

For the vegetable bouillabaisse:

4 new potatoes, washed and cut into thick slices

½ fennel, sliced

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

6 cherry tomatoes

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 tbsp. tomato sauce

Freshly ground black pepper

100 ml white wine

A pinch of saffron pistils

Fresh herbs to decorate 

For the fish:

2 halibut fillets, about 120- 150 g each

Juice of ½ lemon

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 tbsp. olive oil

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat in a heavy casserole, cocotte, such as Le Creuset. Add all the vegetables except the fresh herbs, and stir. Sauté for about 10 minutes stirring occasionally. In a bowl, mix tomato sauce, black pepper, white wine, and saffron. Pour this mixture over the vegetables and stir. Lower the heat to medium- low, cover, and let simmer for about 45 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Stir occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast.

In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, Dijon mustard, and olive oil. Spread some olive oil in the bottom of an oven-proof dish and place the fish fillets in it. Spread the lemon juice, mustard, and olive oil mixture on the fish. Roast in the oven for about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. The fish is done when it is opaque.

Divide the fish fillets and vegetable bouillabaisse on the plates and decorate with chopped herbs.

 It is possible to reach the high terrain above the resort of Les Orres via Lac de Ste Marguerite (2227 m). Having hiked to the lake a few years ago, we now wanted to climb a bit higher, to Col de l’Ane (2524 m). During the high summer season, when the chairlifts are running, you can take advantage of them. In Mid-June, however, the upper village (1800 m) was still deserted. The lift system does not reach Vallon de l’Eissalete where Lac de Ste-Marguerite is located, anyway.

Signpost at Bois Mean

Lower Eissalete Valley

Pra Paisset Orres

Eissalete Valley Orres

Sainte-Marguerite Lake

Marmot by the trail

Above Ste-Marguerite Lake

Col de l'Ane in sight

View southeast from Col de l'Ane

Start of return trail to Les Orres

Return trail to Les Orres

Quinoa-tomato bowl

Mozzarella balls are great added to warm roasted tomato wedges and cooked quinoa for a balanced protein- rich lunch. This dish is at its best in late summer and early autumn when tomatoes and basil are in season. 

2 servings

100 ml quinoa mixture of white and red quinoa, mélange de quinoa blanc et rouge

2- 3 ripe tomatoes

2 tbsp. Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

½ tsp. Dried Provençal herbs

150g mozzarella mini balls

A generous amount, about a handful, of basil leaves

Cook the quinoa in about 300 ml water for 15- 20 minutes. Remove from heat and keep covered for 5- 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 210°C, roast.

Wash the tomatoes and cut into wedges. Place the olive oil, garlic, Provençal herbs, and black pepper in a plastic bag. Add the tomato wedges and shake. Pour the wedges in an oven- proof dish and roast for about 15 minutes until the tomatoes are somewhat collapsed. 

Meanwhile wash and dry the basil leaves and drain the mozzarella balls.

Fold in the tomatoes and mozzarella into the quinoa and divide into the bowls. Decorate with a generous amount of fresh basil.