Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

Hiking maps show no marked trails to Lac de Tavels (2240 m). Situated 4 km southeast of Isola 2000 inside the Mercantour National Park, the lake is surrounded by several beautiful peaks close to the Italian border. Tête du Claus, north of the lake is the highest at 2897 m.

The lake (there are actually two but the smaller one was dry during our visit) is much less visited than the Terre Rouge Lakes above Isola. The shortest itinerary from Isola 2000 goes via Col Mercière (2342 m). More demanding unmarked routes via Italy involve steep mountain passes.

Footbridge above Isola2000

Shortcut above Isola2000

Towards Col Mercière

Signpost at Col Mercière

Vallon Mercière

We took the shortest route to Col Mercière via ski slopes, then passed a big water reservoir before joining the wide gravel track up to the Col. The trail via Vallon du Terre Rouge (signposts #91, 92 and 95) is more interesting but a bit longer.

The southern flanks of Col Mercière and Tête Mercière comprise vast Alpine meadows, also used as pasture ground. We followed the winding wide marked trail, although there were both man and animal made paths on the incline, making shortcuts possible.

We descended about 300 m vertically in Vallon Mercière, finally in the woods. At a sharp bend (44°10'01.6"N 7°11'44.7"E) at about 2070 m elev., we located the path to the lake. We forked left, and found out that the narrow trail had been marked with cairns. We ascended steeply to the lake. We were met by complete tranquillity. The landscape was pristine but very rocky.

Trail south of Col Mercière

Chamois in Vallon Mercière

Steep climb to Lac de Tavels

Approaching Lac de Tavels

Just before Lac de Tavels

After a break we wanted to explore a shorter unmarked route directly back to Col Mercière. We knew from other descriptions that this option was possible, and we had seen some hikers using it. In fact, there were cairns placed in the rocky terrain west of the lake, but in most places the path was barely visible. The boulders got bigger, and we proceeded very carefully along the steep flank. Near some old bunkers, we decided to descend to the grassy meadow below us and found a pleasant path back to Col Mercière.

For average hikers, we can’t recommend the uncomfortable return trail on the rocky incline. We would use the same trail both ways in spite of slightly more vertical climb.

Rocky terrain west of Lac de Tavels

Incline west of Lac de Tavels

Lac de Tavels hike track

Distance: 11 km

Climb: 640 m

Duration: 5 h

Map: ET 3640 ET Haute Tinée 2 Isola 2000

Halibut fillet coated with lemon juice and mustard vegetable bouillabaisse

For this recipe, you can use any tasty, firm- fleshed white fish fillets such as halibut, sea bass, cod, blue ling and so on. Start with the vegetable bouillabaisse as it takes about an hour to make, preparation included. The fish is cooked in the oven in about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of fillets.

2 servings

For the vegetable bouillabaisse:

4 new potatoes, washed and cut into thick slices

½ fennel, sliced

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

6 cherry tomatoes

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 tbsp. tomato sauce

Freshly ground black pepper

100 ml white wine

A pinch of saffron pistils

Fresh herbs to decorate

For the fish:

2 halibut fillets, about 120- 150 g each

Juice of ½ lemon

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 tbsp. olive oil

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat in a heavy casserole, cocotte, such as Le Creuset. Add all the vegetables except the fresh herbs, and stir. Sauté for about 10 minutes stirring occasionally. In a bowl, mix tomato sauce, black pepper, white wine, and saffron. Pour this mixture over the vegetables and stir. Lower the heat to medium- low, cover, and let simmer for about 45 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Stir occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast.

In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, Dijon mustard, and olive oil. Spread some olive oil in the bottom of an oven-proof dish and place the fish fillets in it. Spread the lemon juice, mustard, and olive oil mixture on the fish. Roast in the oven for about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. The fish is done when it is opaque.

Divide the fish fillets and vegetable bouillabaisse on the plates and decorate with chopped herbs.

It is possible to reach the high terrain above the resort of Les Orres via Lac de Ste Marguerite (2227 m). Having hiked to the lake a few years ago, we now wanted to climb a bit higher, to Col de l’Ane (2524 m). During the high summer season, when the chairlifts are running, you can take advantage of them. In Mid-June, however, the upper village (1800 m) was still deserted. The lift system does not reach Vallon de l’Eissalete where Lac de Ste-Marguerite is located, anyway.

Signpost at Bois Mean

Lower Eissalete Valley

Pra Paisset Orres

Eissalete Valley Orres

Sainte-Marguerite Lake

We used the familiar itinerary to the lake, starting from the parking at Bois Méan (~1650 m), just under the upper village. There’s a big signpost showing different itineraries. We headed south along a wide unpaved track, initially almost flat. We passed Bergerie Gautier. The track, still wide, became rockier. Now climbing steeper, we passed the crossroads to Source de Jerusalem and Col du Pouzenc. After Cabane du Lac, we left the forest behind us and entered the vast Alpine meadows in Vallon de l’Eissalete.

We soon reached the Ste-Marguerite Lake, and continued along its western shore. The trail to the mountain pass was marked with yellow and some cairns here and there. We soon met some curious marmots by the trail. The climb to the col was continuous (roughly one hour from the lake) but in no way difficult as marked in Les Orres guide.

Marmot by the trail

Above Ste-Marguerite Lake

Col de l'Ane in sight

View southeast from Col de l'Ane

Start of return trail to Les Orres

Return trail to Les Orres

The pass (also named Col de l’Eissalete) marked our turning point today. A “technical” ridge itinerary continued to the east to Aupillon (2916 m; the highest peak above Les Orres). We had great views down to the Ubaye River Valley and beyond as well as to the north Les Ecrins etc.

We descended to the lake, then forked right soon after, and followed the trail which went to Les Orres 1800. We crossed a small stream (a wooden bridge) and headed north. It was a most pleasant and soft path in the woods. In fact, nicer than the ascending trail! We stayed higher up fairly long before starting to descend to the resort. There were good signposts.

From Les Orres 1800, we descended along the road back to our starting point.

Climb: 880 m

Duration: 5h 30 active

Distance: 14 km

Map: 3438 ET Embrun Les Orres

Quinoa-tomato bowl

Mozzarella balls are great added to warm roasted tomato wedges and cooked quinoa for a balanced protein- rich lunch. This dish is at its best in late summer and early autumn when tomatoes and basil are in season.

2 servings

100 ml quinoa mixture of white and red quinoa, mélange de quinoa blanc et rouge

2- 3 ripe tomatoes

2 tbsp. Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

½ tsp. Dried Provençal herbs

150g mozzarella mini balls

A generous amount, about a handful, of basil leaves

Cook the quinoa in about 300 ml water for 15- 20 minutes. Remove from heat and keep covered for 5- 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 210°C, roast.

Wash the tomatoes and cut into wedges. Place the olive oil, garlic, Provençal herbs, and black pepper in a plastic bag. Add the tomato wedges and shake. Pour the wedges in an oven- proof dish and roast for about 15 minutes until the tomatoes are somewhat collapsed.

Meanwhile wash and dry the basil leaves and drain the mozzarella balls.

Fold in the tomatoes and mozzarella into the quinoa and divide into the bowls. Decorate with a generous amount of fresh basil.

The southern flank of the mountain massif above Embrun and the Durance River Valley consists of a wide forest belt reaching about 2000 m elevation. Higher up, the landscape becomes high-alpine.

Having previously hiked to Mont Guillaume (2542 m), we now decided to explore the trail up to the Hivernet Lake (2352 m), another popular itinerary in the region.

Starting to Lake Hivernet

Good signposts

Pré Clos

Easy part of trail

Near Pierre Pointue

A paved albeit narrow and in places potholed road ascends to Parking de la Fôret (1587 m). There’s a network of paths and gravel tracks and the itinerary to Lake Hivernet (as well as to Mont Guillaume) is clearly signposted.

From the parking, we first ascended in the forest to Pré Clos. The larch forest gave good protection on a hot and sunny day during the first part of the ascent. The dirt track ended here. We continued straight north, still in the woods, passing Pierre Pointue. The path turned to the west, and we came to a clearing with a steeper incline in front of us. Now above the main tree line, we followed the trail, surrounded by blossoming rhododendrons up to the lake.

It was early season (mid-June), but the terrain was already snowless and dry. Fortunately, small streams from higher ground in the west were irrigating the beautiful Lac de l’Hivernet.

At Tree line to Lake Hivernet

Nearing Lake Hivernet

Descent start from Lake Hivernet

Durance River Valley

Trail near Parking de la Fôret

We returned along the same trail. It was not a long hike in distance but some stretches were rather steep, especially when approaching the lake.

Distance: 9 km

Climb: 780 m

Duration: 3h 45 active

Map: Orcières-Merlette 3437 ET

Egg-Parma ham muffins

These tasty small bakes make a nice light lunch served with a green side salad and whole wheat or rye bread.

2 servings

4 slices of Parma ham

4 eggs

Olive oil

A small handful of baby spinach leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate

Preheat the oven to 180° C.

Oil 4 muffin tin cavities with olive oil. Line each cavity with a slice of Parma ham. Place some spinach leaves in the bottom. Crack 1 egg into each cavity and grind over some black pepper.

Bake for 10- 15 minutes until the egg whites are solidified. Sprinkle over some chopped fresh herbs.

Egg-Parma ham muffins from oven

Montagne de Thiey in autumn

We have previously made this great hike to Montagne de Thiey (1553 m) in the Côte d’Azur Prealps some years ago in early autumn. Now, in spring, the scenery could not be more different, with the nascent greenery of the various vegetation zones. Near the summit, we saw wild peonies and, when returning, we walked through a beautiful beech forest.

Start from Nans parking

Forest above Nans Valley

Southern flank of Montagne de Thiey

The access from the coast is easy as the parking by the Nans Valley is next to the RD85 road (19 km from Grasse).

The itinerary from the parking (860 m) was easy to follow as the signposts and markings (yellow) were numerous. We ascended both along dirt tracks and good trails (signposts #65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70 and 71). There were some steeper stretches just before the summit. Even on a hazy albeit clear day we had great 360° views, from the snow-capped Mercantour peaks to the Esterel coastal mountains.

We returned to signpost #69, then headed northeast under Crête de Thiey. We descended, quite steeply in places, to a beech forest at about 1000 m elevation where we forked right at signpost #178. After a brief ascent we descended continuously to the verdant Nans Valley, passing signposts #72 and 127. The stream in the valley was completely dry. There had been only sporadic rainy days since the beginning of the year. We passed signpost #66 before reaching our starting point.

Most hikers seemed to return along the same trail. We warmly recommend the loop on the way back.