Hike above Toudon in the Prealps of Côte d'Azur




The Riviera back country, Moyen Pays, is magnificent hiking terrain in spring. The days are longer, the trail normally dry, the Mercantour high mountain summits still snow-capped, and the nature is awakening with flowers blossoming and birds singing.

Today’s hike started from the tiny and quiet village of Toudon (970 m) overlooking the Estéron River Valley. The mountains here are part of the Côte d’Azur Prealps. The day was beautiful with blue skies in late April. It took about one hour to get there from Nice, first along the RM 6202 road, them RD 17 to Gilette. From here the sinuous RD 227/27 road forked right and ascended rapidly to about 800-900 m.
We drove past the villages of Revest-les-Roches and Tourette-du-Château, and reached Toudon rapidly.







We parked near the mairie. The hike is called Cime des Collettes after the summit along the trail. It is also the highest point (1513 m) of this hike. From the first signpost #61 opposite the mairie the trail ascended steeply passing some houses to signpost #62 in the woods above the village. From here, we forked left ascending gently to signpost #90 and to a plateau called Sebairons. After this, the landscape changed, the trail got narrower and rockier. It was the most adventurous part of the trail. Some sure-footedness was needed before Baisse des Collettes at 1269 m and signpost #91. We continued along a good trail in the forest on the northern flank of the mountain. The scenery and flora there was so different from the dry almost arid southern face of Cime des Collettes.

To reach the summit, we took a short and easy detour from the main trail at signpost #92. The summit was round, with some low maquis vegetation and a 360° panoramic view. Heading back to the village, we re-entered the southern face of the mountain again, and descended in l’adret de la Clappe to signpost #63 then back to #62, and to the village.

Vertical climb: 550 m

Walking time: 3h 30

Map: IGN 3642 ET Vallée de l’Estéron

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Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild Gardens

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild


The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild was built in 1912 for Baroness Ephrussi-Rothschild who had unlimited wealth and refined tastes. To make the gardens in front of the villa the baroness had a small hill removed and then had tons of earth brought back for the gardens.

We visited the gardens on a quiet Tuesday in early May after the roses were celebrated during the weekend with La Fête des Roses et des Plantes. In May all the gardens were in season.

There are nine gardens with a different theme reflecting the baroness’s travels around the world.

The Spanish and Florentine Gardens in the beginning of the itinerary were truly impressive. The beautiful Japanese Garden was recently renovated by Japanese gardeners.

But I think that the Rose Garden at the farthest end of the area was the most beautiful part of all, especially in May when the roses have their peak flowering season.







There were stunning views towards the Villefranche Bay and towards Beaulieu and the Mediterranean Sea on the other side of the St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula. After admiring the roses, we wandered to the Exotic Garden with its magnificent cactuses.

The garden tour ended in the French Garden in front of the villa. After waiting a few minutes, we could enjoy musical fountain show.

We had lunch on the terrace of the villa. The plat du jour was a tasty chicken breast served on a bed of ratatouille. It was decorated with an edible flower to continue the garden theme.

After lunch we visited the incredible villa and watched a short film about the building of this marvelous site in the Belle Epoque.

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Côte de veau, veal chop, with polenta

Côte de veau, veal chop with polenta


Côte de veau, veal chop with polenta


Preparation time:
Cooking time:
Total time:

It is here in France that I have discovered côtes de veau, veal chops. In our supermarket in Nice they are approximately the same size as pork chops, weighing about 150- 180 g each. Veal chops have consistently been tasty and tender.

In the following recipe, which I have somewhat modified from a recipe in a French magazine, the veal chops are first quickly fried in a pan and then baked in the oven. Veal needs to be well done to achieve its tenderness. If you cannot buy veal chops in your area, you might try this recipe with pork chops.

French veal fond helps to make a quick sauce. I usually choose Marmite Fond de Veau and add some crème fraiche 15% fat, minced shallots and white wine for a tasty sauce. Polenta can now be cooked in a few minutes with milk and a pinch of salt, just follow the advice on the package. Serve with frozen microwaved green beans.

2 servings

2 nice veal chops, côtes de veau, about 150-180 g each
A small package Marmite veal fond, fond de veau (or similar)
250 ml water
100 ml white wine
1 shallot, minced
2 tbsp. crème fraiche, 15% fat
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. rapeseed oil, huile de colza
Parsley or chives to decorate

Preheat the oven to 180°C

In a heavy frying pan, warm the butter and rapeseed oil over medium-high heat. Fry the veal chops about 2,5 minutes on both sides until golden brown. Transfer to an oven-tray, and continue baking in the oven 15 to 20 minutes. In a small sauce pan warm the water until almost boiling, then reduce the heat. Add one package of Marmite Fond de Veau and whip until completely dissolved. Continue simmering and reducing, mixing now and then.

In a separate small sauce pan, bring the white wine and some black pepper to the boil. Add the minced shallot and reduce the heat to simmering. Continue simmering until the wine is reduced to about half. When the veal chops are done, add about half to ¾ of the reduced veal fond into the wine sauce and mix well. Whip in the crème fraiche and keep warm.

Divide the veal chops, polenta and green beans on the plates. Pour the veal fond-wine sauce over the veal chops and grind over some black pepper. Decorate with chives or parsley.

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Airplane wreck above Tourrettes-sur-Loup

Rockwell Commander wreck Puy de Tourrettes in background



We have previously made several good hikes from Tourrettes-sur-Loup such as Circuit de Pié Martin, the ascent to Col de Vence, and to Puy de Naouri.

This time we ascended from the village in search of an airplane wreck.

In July 1980, a Danish registered single-engine plane OY-CAY crashed below the summit of Puy de Tourrettes (1268 m). According to an aviation safety site, the pilot survived the crash. There were no passengers. The plane in question was a three-year old Rockwell Commander 114. What exactly happened is not described. I was certified to fly the Rockwell Commander 112 in the late 70s, hence the additional interest. The plane had very nice handling qualities. The main difference between the two was the engine size: -112 had a 200hp powerplant whereas the -114 had 60hp more.

Based on pictures of the wreck, and some French hiking web sites, I could pinpoint the location. The wreck is also visible in Google Earth.











We started from the centre of Tourrettes-sur-Loup (400 m) along a paved road called Route de Caïre. It ascended steeply passing the last houses. Eventually, a guesthouse Bastide de la Source (820 m) with impressive surroundings was reached. The paved road ended here. The trail now continued ascending steeply, zigzagging in the mountain slope. After about 1h 50 after the start, we came to a crossroads at a plateau (about 1030 m). From here, one marked and signposted trail continued straight(north) to St Barnabé, the second turned right(east) to Puy de Naouri. The third trail that forked left(west, pictured) was unmarked and not shown on the map, but there were cairns. Clearly it continued towards the summit of Puy de Tourrettes.

From the said crossroads, I knew that the heading to the Rockwell wreck was about 250°, and the distance 910 m. The direct route seemed to be a bit rocky. We therefore chose to follow the trail heading west about 400 m, then forked left and started to look for the wreck that was lying at 1085 m elevation.

We first found parts of the tailplane and the fin. The fuselage was a bit higher, about 150 m northwest, lying with the nose downhill. It was surprisingly well preserved after almost 36 years. There were no signs of fire. The engine was long gone and not much was left of the interior.

Needless to say, it was a bit sad to see a great plane ending up here. We descended back to Tourrettes-sur-Loup along the same trail.


Total ascent: 700 m

Duration: 4 h



Trail image courtesy of Google Maps





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Short loop above Tourrettes-sur-Loup

Two baous Tourrettes-sur-Loup and the trail


The village of Tourrettes-sur-Loup (400 m) about 6 km from Vence is known as artists’ village, but it has also been known for the cultivation of violets for over a century. The end of the violet harvest is still celebrated every year, in the end of February or early March, by the Fête des Violettes.

It was a grey but warm April day. As we walked past the Bastide aux Violettes, the museum dedicated to violet cultivation, we decided to visit it on the way back.









The walk started from the centre of the village. We first ascended about 2 km along a narrow paved road in the residential area of St-Martin west of the village centre. Signposts and yellow marks along the trail guided us well, the hike is called Circuit de Pié Martin.

The trail forked right where the paved road ended and continued in an evergreen forest, notably comprising chênes verts, holly oaks. We glimpsed a small deer crossing the path and admired a hawk above us. We saw several diggings of wild boars on the path. What a contrast it was viewing the busy Riviera not so far away!

Eventually, at about 800 m altitude, we hit a dirt track running horizontally in the southern flank of Pic de Courmettes (1248 m). We turned right and followed the track about 300 m until we came to the next signpost showing the way back down to Tourrettes-sur-Loup. First the trail was a wide track leading to Pié Martin, a plateau with great views to the Riviera coastline, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, and Vence. After the plateau, a narrower and rockier but still a good path descended rapidly back to the neighbourhood of St-Martin.

In Bastide aux Violettes, we learned the many uses of violets; in perfumes, for medical purposes, in sweets and jams, as decoration of gourmet dishes, and of course bouquets that once used to be very fashionable.

Walking time: 3 hours

Vertical ascent: 450 m

Map: IGN 3643 ET “Cannes Grasse Côte d’Azur”

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Chicken breast with two lemons

Chicken breast with two lemons

The sunny colours of this dish are like a promise that summer is not that far away. The taste is great, too. This recipe is a good example how versatile ingredients simple chicken breasts really are.

2 servings

2 chicken breasts cut into large chunks
1 organic lemon
½ lime
4 carrots
1 clove garlic
1 tbsp soya sauce
1 tbsp runny honey
3 tbsp olive oil
½ tbsp butter
1 tsp Provencal herbs
Freshly ground black pepper
Parsley to decorate

First prepare the marinade. Peel and mince the garlic clove. Press half of the lime. In a bowl mix the garlic, lime juice, soya sauce, honey, olive oil, Provencal herbs and some black pepper.

Cut the chicken breasts into large chunks and place them in a large deep plate. Pour the marinade over the chicken and cover with film. Place the plate in the fridge and marinate for about an hour, turning the chicken chunks once.

Wash the carrots and cut them lengthwise into four parts. Cook or microwave the carrots until al dente, almost cooked.

Preheat the oven to 210⁰ C.

Butter a shallow oven-proof dish. Arrange the chicken chunks in the centre of the dish, and the carrots around the chicken. Pour over the marinade. Wash well the organic lemon and cut into thin slices. Place the lemon slices over the chicken and carrots.

Bake in the oven for 25 minutes. Decorate with parsley and serve with brown rice.

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Oven-baked sea bass fillets with basil sauce

Sea bass fillet with basil sauce

When fresh basil again is available after winter pistou, basil sauce, is a classic accompaniment to simply prepared fish in the South of France. I once again admired how well homemade basil sauce, pistou fait maison, complimented oven-baked fish fillets, Provençal tomatoes, and steamed potatoes during our recent lunch in Monaco. The recipe works with other white fish fillets, in Monaco we had John Dory fish.

Pistou is a cold sauce made from fresh basil leaves, olive oil, garlic, and salt. The traditional Provençal pistou didn’t have any cheese, and it was mixed by hand with a mortar and pestle. Pistou does not contain any pine nuts, as does the Italian pesto, but some modern versions are made with Gruyère or Parmesan cheese.

Pistou is best when used immediately, but it can be kept in the fridge for 1- 2 days. It is very versatile; it can be used in soups, spread on baked fish or grilled meat, or sprinkled on cooked vegetables.

2 servings

 2 sea bass fillets, about 150- 200 g each
For the pistou:
1 small bunch (about 40 leaves) basil
About 4 tbsp olive oil, the best and fruitiest
1/3 clove crushed garlic
Freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of salt
For the Provençal tomatoes:
2 ripe tomatoes
½ clove garlic, crushed
4 tsp pistou
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tsp dried breadcrumbs

Serve with new potatoes, some lemon wedges, and steamed white asparagus to celebrate spring

First prepare the pistou. Place the washed and dried basil leaves, olive oil, crushed garlic, black pepper and salt in a blender and mix until smooth. Add more olive oil, if you want a thinner sauce.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius.

Prepare the Provençal tomatoes. Halve the tomatoes and sprinkle with some black pepper and crushed garlic. Place 1 tsp pistou on each tomato half and cover with 1 tsp breadcrumbs. Place the tomato halves on an oven-proof plate.

Wash the new potatoes and asparagus. Peel the asparagus and cut away the tough end parts. The potatoes and asparagus can be simply microwaved while the fish is baked in the oven.

Place the sea bass fillets on the oven tray. They can be wrapped in baking paper to make small parcels and baked en papillote.

Bake first the Provençal tomatoes for 5 minutes in the oven. Then place the sea bass fillets in the oven and continue baking for 10 minutes.

Divide the fish fillets, Provençal tomatoes, new potatoes and asparagus on the plates. Spread 1 tbsp pistou on the fish fillets and sprinkle a few drops of the remaining pistou on the potatoes and asparagus.

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From Coaraze to Mont Férion

Coaraze

The hilltop village of Coaraze (620 m) overlooks the valley of a tributary to the main Paillon river. The village is neat and chic, and many artists and designers have residences here. Cocteau has signed some of the sundials which decorate the village. Coaraze is also called the Sun Village, perhaps because of the sundials or just the many sunny days it gets.

We had originally planned a hike to Rocca Sparviera (1110 m) north of the village, but this very day the trail was closed. There was no information about this on the Randoxygene Web site where this hike is described. Maybe there had been a landslide after last autumn’s heavy rains, or maybe there was just some maintenance work on the trail?

Luckily the trail to Mont Férion (1412 m) was open. We had previously hiked to Mont Férion from Levens and were interested to see what this trail was like. Clearly the change of itinerary meant more climbing than planned.







The continuous and rather steep ascent started from signpost 205.  We crossed a dirt road zigzagging up to Mt Férion a few times. Eventually we reached Baisse de la Minière (signpost 206) at 1180 m. The rocky trail now headed southwest ascending steeply in the woods to signpost #273 then to the nearby mountaintop. The woods continue as far as to the summit. The best views down to Coaraze and the valley are therefore from the trail before the summit. The over 4 km long Crete du Férion continues south from the highest point.

We returned along the same route back to Coaraze.

Elevation gain: About 790 m
Duration: 4h 30

Map: IGN 3741 ET “Vallées de La Bévéra et des Paillons”
Image of trail to Mont Férion
   
Image of trail courtesy of Google maps

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Following Princess Grace's footsteps in Monaco-Ville




Alfred Hitchcock’s to Catch a Thief starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant was partly filmed on the French Riviera. One of the most memorable scenes of the film is their picnic during the car trip above Monaco.

During the 1955 Cannes Film Festival, Grace Kelly met Prince Rainier of Monaco. They were married in April 1956, and Grace Kelly began her duties as Princess of Monaco.









On a beautiful spring day in the end of March we made a trip to Monaco-Ville, The Rock, to trace the locations familiar to Princess Grace. We parked our car in Fontvieille and walked the short distance to Monaco-Ville.

The Prince’s Palace had not yet opened its state apartments to visitors. We admired the beautiful surroundings and the changing of the guards. Several ancient cannons by the Palace reminded of the turbulent history and the Palace’s role mainly as a fortress in ancient times.

We then strolled to Saint-Martin Gardens past the Monaco Cathedral where Grace Kelly’s and Prince Rainier’s wedding ceremony was held. The beautiful gardens with its magnificent flower beds, views and statues is not to be missed.

We had a tasty lunch at U Cavagnetu on Rue Compte Félix Gastaldi. Princess Grace used to walk along this narrow street when taking Princess Stephanie to school. Today’s plat du jour, the recommended lunch dish, was Filet de St.Pierre, John Dory Fish. It was well prepared with a South of France twist, and the price was not any higher than in Nice.

After lunch we headed to the Oceanographic Museum. This is now Monaco’s number one tourist attraction. The museum was inaugurated in 1910 by Prince Albert I. We have previously visited the museum six years ago, and it was interesting to see how the museum is continually being renewed. The new Turtle Island on the roof terrace was a nice discovery. In one of the aquariums a young turtle was swimming among the fish. It had been saved in 2014 from the Monaco harbour suffering from hypothermia. This touching story is an example of the Museum’s commitment to protect the marine world.

The whole itinerary of Parcours Princesse Grace comprises 25 locations in Monaco to commemorate various aspects of Princess Grace’s daily life. The length of the tour is 5.5 km and the map is available at Monaco’s Tourism and Convention Office.

The young turtle saved from Monaco harbor







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On a wild trail from Col de Castillon

On-the-trail-from-Col-de-Castillon-to-Sospel



Col de Castillon (706 m) above Menton has a spacious and quiet parking. We have made some excellent hikes from here, such as to Mont Razet (1285 m), and Mont Ourse (1239 m). This time we wanted to explore the trail to Sospel (350 m).

From Col de Castillon we first followed the trail north, first along a small road then along a trail passing the last houses. At the crossroads at signpost 137 we forked left along the trail(old yellow marks) leading to Sospel. A storm named “Elke” had hit the region a few days ago bringing snow to fairly low altitudes. We were nevertheless surprised to find this much snow between just 700-800 m.








It was a gorgeous morning with blue skies. The air was pure and crisp. The nature was peaceful, just starting to wake up after winter. The sounds of civilization were far away, and we could enjoy the singing of the birds. Only a deer had marched along the trail during the past few days.

Our progress in the snow was slow and heavy. After about 1h 30, and after a fairly steep descent the snow finally disappeared. We passed some farmhouses below the trail and soon found a sunny and warm clearing, a perfect spot for a picnic. From this point, the remaining distance to Sospel would have been ca. 45 min. Our aim was to explore the trail, not necessarily to visit Sospel. We were therefore happy to turn back to the starting point after the picnic, and take our time to enjoy the nature.


First spring flowers surrounded by snow



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