Green and red in Gorges du Cians




For many visitors, the road D28 along Cians valley up to the mountain resort of Valberg is just a thoroughfare.

You enter the Gorges du Cians almost immediately after the intersection near Touët-sur-Var in the Var river valley. In spite of many improvements, some parts of D28 are still quite narrow. On one web site, it is even listed among the most dangerous roads in the world! The steep mountain walls on both sides change their colour from limestone grey to red as you ascend towards Beuil. A local bikers´ web site calls the valley “Le Colorado Niçois”.  Similar colours can be seen in Gorges de Daluis as well as in some parts of Tinée valley.
Many mountaintops around Cians River have a round form reminiscent of fells in northern England and Scandinavia. In spite of this, many of them reach 2000m and more. The landscape is different compared with the Alpine peaks visible not that far in the north.

This is hinterland, arrière pays, and when you hike here you are more or less off the beaten track. We describe a hike that starts from the valley at 1288 m from a place called Pré de Chaudi. It’s basically a parking lot by the D28 road. Unfortunately, a large part of it was filled with red land and rocks probably as a result of last winter’s landslides on the road.

The first challenge was crossing the Cians River as the trails at this point start on the other side. As this was our first hike here, we could not know if there ever had been a bridge. Nothing resembling even remnants of a bridge was visible. In early May, the melting snow in the Mounier Mountain massive (2817 m) obviously results in a lot of water. As you can see in the clip, it’s by no means a wide river at all but you don’t want to start the hike with wet gear! After a while we located a fallen tree trunk suitable for the crossing.

Our goal was Les Cluots at 2106m. There are many variants. Diehard hikers even have the option of climbing all the neighbouring peaks (Tête de Pérail 2016 m and Tête de Giarons 2027 m) as well.  The initial ascent goes through a forest to a sheepfold at 1600m. The trail marked with yellow is perhaps less clear after this point but one can actually walk almost everywhere; shortcuts are possible. As you continue above the tree level navigation should be easy enough in clear weather. In early May numerous alpine flowers, such as the edelweiss and gentian, were in full blossom. At signpost 76 (1950 m) all three peaks are visible. We could immediately conclude that Les Cluots northern flank was still covered with snow. With our gear, we therefore opted for Tête de Pérail instead. The vertical ascent was 730 m, duration 4.5 hours and driving distance from Nice 65 km.

Map: Moyenne Tinée No 3641 ET


Map of the trail






Image courtesy of: Les Plus Belles Randonnées des Alpes du Sud (Bernard Ranc); Éditions Gap. This recommended book also has the description of the hike in French.

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Spring cod -how to change a recipe healthier


Healthy spring cod

















In spring, I love the combination of fresh cod, tender green local asparagus, fruity olive oil, lemon and new potatoes. The following recipe was inspired by a beautiful picture in a French magazine. But when I started reading the recipe, I thought that, oh no, a simple but major change is necessary.

Cod is almost fat-free white fish with plenty of protein and, like all fish and seafood it is healthy for the heart. But unfortunately this recipe, like many cod recipes, was made with loads of butter. Butter has high saturated fatty acid content and is best used sparingly if you want to keep your heart happy.

But you can easily swap the butter with olive oil. Olive oil is a heart-healthy fat and is one of the secrets in healthy Mediterranean diet. I love olive oil, and it is interesting to find different flavors. For this dish I would choose a very fruity type of olive oil. You may wish to add a pinch of salt, because olive oil has no salt, whereas butter normally has some salt added.

2 servings

 2 nice cod fillets, pavés de cabillaud
4 tbsp fruity olive oil
1 organic lemon, zested and juiced
About 3 tbsp chopped chives
Freshly ground black pepper
10 asparagus spears
A pinch of salt (optional)

Preheat the oven to 200⁰ C, roast.

Place 3 tbsp olive oil in a bowl. Wash the lemon and grate the zest from it in the bowl. Press out the juice from half the lemon into the bowl. Add the black pepper, salt if using it, and chives. Mix well and set aside.

Wash and dry the asparagus spears. Cut off the bottoms. Peel the asparagus spears if they are thick. You do not need to peel the tender and thin ones. Cut the asparagus spears into about 5 cm long pieces.

Oil an oven proof dish with 1 tbsp olive oil. Place the cod fillets and asparagus in the dish and divide the olive oil- lemon mixture on top. Roast in oven for about 10 minutes. Serve with steamed new potatoes, and spoon all the nice sauce that has accumulated in the oven proof dish over the fish, asparagus and potatoes.

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Stunning hike above Menton




Peaks above Menton rapidly reach 1000 m and more. Hiking trails are numerous and very popular in this region. The old village of Castellar is located about 5 km north of Menton. The access to Castellar is relatively easy from the A 8 motorway, although the normal route towards Sospel is not available at the moment because of the landslide last winter.

Both GR 51 and 52 pass through Castellar. The hike featured in this video clip to Mont Carpano is included in the selection of hikes in the booklet Pays Côtier and on their web site in French.

If you are planning a hike with extraordinary Riviera views combined with a moderate effort this is your choice. The vertical ascent is 450 m, duration about three hours. The ascent is initially along GR 51 to Plan du Lion then along GR 52 to south about 15 min before bifurcating left up to the nearby “summit” (772 m) at the Italian border.  There is not a clear mountaintop, just a ridge. The descent is first along GR 52 (a bit steep with loose gravel, poles recommended) as far as to an intersection. From there, an unpaved road leads back to Castellar, whereas the GR 52 trail descends all the way down to Menton.

We have done this hike three times so far, sometimes with visiting friends, and it has always been a success.

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Turkey filet recipe wrapped in prosciutto

Turkey fillet wrapped in prosciutto






















If you browse through cookbooks about classic recipes in Provence and Nice, you will not find any turkey recipes. But in Nice supermarkets you will easily find nicely prepared and packaged turkey cuts. You’ll find thin and even extra thin turkey slices, escalopes de dinde, which are ideal for filling. You’ll find cubes and eminces, small turkey cubes and slices which can be cooked fast for turkey salads or used in various sautés and casseroles. You’ll also find turkey fillet, filet mignon de dinde, which I will use in the following recipe. You’ll find free range Label Rouge turkey, which is raised according to the same principles as free range Label Rouge chicken.

French magazines, new cookbooks and small recipe booklets have now plenty of turkey recipes. Times change, and the French are nowadays interested in cooking lighter and healthier. But the French don’t want to sacrifice the taste, and many known chefs are now contributing to the simple recipe booklets that are sold in supermarkets.

Skinless turkey filet is practically fat-free and a super source of protein. Rapeseed oil is a heart-healthy neutral oil for all sautéing and frying. And the rest of the ingredients in the following recipe bring a lot of taste to this lean dish.

2 servings

 About 350 g cut of skinless turkey filet, filet mignon de dinde
2 thin slices of prosciutto di Parma
2 small courgettes
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
50 ml white wine
100 ml chicken stock
2 tsp tomato pure
2 tbsp rape seed oil
1 tsp herbes de Provence
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp crème fraîche, 15 % fat
Fresh parsley or chives to decorate

Halve the turkey cut lengthwise. Wrap each half in a slice of prosciutto.

Warm the rapeseed oil over a medium heat in a frying pan. Sauté the turkey wraps on both sides until nicely coloured. Add the minced shallot and garlic in the pan. Reduce the heat, and then add the tomato pure, white wine, chicken stock, pepper and herbs in the pan. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes, turning the turkey wraps once. Add the crème fraîche when about 5 minutes of the cooking time remains. Stir to mix everything evenly.
Meanwhile cook the brown rice. I use the precooked brown rice which only needs about 10 minutes cooking. Wash and slice the courgettes. Microwave the courgettes for about 3 minutes until soft.

Divide the turkey wraps, courgettes and a portion of brown rice on the plates. Drizzle with the sauce and decorate with fresh parsley or chives.

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From Tourrettes-sur-Loup (artisans' village) to Puy de Naouri




Tourrettes-sur-Loup, about 6 km west of Vence, has a well maintained medieval centre. When driving from Vence, there’s a spacious parking just before the village. From the parking, the village even has free shuttle bus transportation. 

Tourrettes-sur-Loup is known as an artisan’s paradise. There are many ateliers for sculpture, jewelry and designer household items, all pretty classy and expensive-looking. In spite of this, the village has none of the touristic feel that some other similar villages in the region have. The town hall is in a small castle with a free art exhibition. The village is also famous for its violet festival. There was a market on the day we visited the village. Unfortunately we did not have time to explore this as we were heading for our hike and showers were forecasted for the afternoon. The market seemed to have quality products, so we have to come back later. Our goal was Puy de Naouri (1024 m) above the village (400 m).


The hike follows the trail suggested by the randoxygène guide. The initial part ascends through rather affluent residential areas before continuing in the woods towards north. The trail joins Grande Randonnée for about 1 km heading west then bifurcates left towards the mountaintop.  The route actually circles around the whole mountain. Signposts are clear enough and the rest of the trail has yellow marks. The descent is rapid; consider using poles because of loose stones. From a place called Le Caire the descent is along a paved road about 2 km before turning left and eventually reaching even a more upscale residential district called Les Virettes.

The guidebook rates this hike as sportive. We agree with that. The trail is easy but distance is 13 km including the longish ascent.

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Chicken leg recipe with saffron and almonds

Chicken legs with saffron and almonds




Chicken legs with saffron and almonds


This is a carefree but tasty way to prepare chicken legs. For this recipe I would choose free-range chicken legs, cuisses de poulet fermier and preferably Label Rouge. Tasty ingredients are important for this simple recipe. I would choose organic dried apricots and organic chicken stock simply because they have more taste. Saffron filaments work better in this recipe than saffron powder.

Preparation time:
Cooking time:
Total time:
2 servings

2 chicken legs,cuisses de poulet fermier, Label Rouge
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 shallots, in quarters
1 clove garlic, minced
6 dried organic apricots, halved
1 yellow paprika, cut into large chunks
½ lemon, pressed into juice
100 ml organic chicken stock
A handful of sliced almonds
Freshly ground black pepper
A good pinch of saffron filaments
Parsley or mint to decorate

In a heavy casserole warm the rapeseed oil over medium heat. Fry the chicken legs on both sides until nicely coloured, about 5 minutes on each side.

Warm the oven to 200⁰ C.

Add the paprika chunks, shallots, apricots and garlic in the casserole. Pour in the chicken stock and lemon juice. Add the saffron filaments and black pepper and sprinkle the almond slices over the chicken legs. Bring to a boil. Then transfer the casserole in the oven and bake for 45 minutes. You may need to cover the casserole towards the end of the cooking so that the almond slices do not burn.

Divide the chicken legs, vegetables and the sauce on the plates. Serve with steamed broccoli and brown rice. Decorate with parsley or mint.

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Perfume shopping and hiking in Èze




Èze village (11km from Nice on the moyenne corniche ) is an elegant hill top village, village perché. From a distance the village has the monumental medieval unity, and its vaulted passages and stairways were designed not to charm but from fear of attack.

Èze- sur-Mer is the seaside extension of Èze village, and the upper part of Èze, Col d’Èze, is on the Grande Corniche.

The Fragonard perfume shop in Èze village has become a popular stop among tourists. And no wonder because it has all the latest Fragonard scents and a much better selection than their small shop in Nice. Fragonard fragrances are reasonably priced, natural, classic and still rare enough that few people would be likely to wear the same scent that I do. I won’t be telling the names of my favourite scents…

The hike described here is certainly one of the classic littoral hikes on the Riviera.  Named Circuit du Mont Bastide, the starting point can be from Èze- sur-Mer or, as in our case from the Èze village at about 350m. The trail is well signposted and marked with yellow. In spite of its rather modest altitude at 570m, Mont Bastide offers stunning views not only down to the coastline but also to north where the Alpes du Sud peaks are visible. The guide booklet Rando Pays Ĉotier gives additional information in French. The booklet says that the total vertical ascent is about 600m, duration about 4 hours. With a very moderate pace, we completed the circuit in about 3.5 hours. Having done this circuit twice, we consider this hike more like moyenne than sportive as far as the difficulty and effort are concerned.

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Sea bass fillet recipe with orange and lemon compote


Sea bass fillets with orange and lemon compote






















Sea bass, loup de mer, is a tasty white fish. In winter and spring it is regularly available in our local supermarket, usually already filleted and without skin. Sea bass is now farmed extensively in the Mediterranean, which has kept the price reasonable. It seems that the wild sea bass from Sète has become a luxurious product.

The delicate sea bass is best cooked simply. For this simple recipe, a really good and fruity olive oil is essential. I like Alziari Fruitée douce which is a classic olive oil from Nice. Alziari has a small and cosy traditional shop in Vieux Nice, 14 rue St Francois de Paule, not far from cours Saleya market place.

2 servings

 2 nice loup fillets, about 150- 200 g each
2 tbsp fruity olive oil
1 orange
1 lemon
Freshly ground black pepper
Parsley to decorate

Preheat the oven to 200⁰ C, roast.

For the sauce, peel the orange and lemon. Divide into sections removing all the tough membranes. Warm 1 tbsp olive oil in a small casserole and simmer gently the lemon and orange sections. Grind over some black pepper. NB! Just warm gently the lemon and orange sections, do not cook. In 10- 15 minutes they will turn into a kind of compote.

Place the sea bass fillets on a baking tay Sprinkle 1 tbsp olive oil and grind a little black pepper over them. Roast for about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

Divide the fish on the plates and spoon the orange- lemon compote over the fillets. Serve with new potatoes and wilted spinach. Decorate with parsley.

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Hiking around Saint-Jeannet...is Baou a mountain?

Baou de St-Jeannet



Ascent, view and the summit of Saint Jeannet
Baou is a Provençal word meaning a rocky limestone hilltop with a flat summit.


The Baou de Saint-Jeannet (800 m) is a prominent landmark when driving north from Nice along the Route de Grenoble. It is about 20 km from Nice. The medieval village of Saint-Jeannet is protected from northern winds by the Baou. It used to be a frontier village between Provençe and the Comte de Nice during the time when the River Var separated them.

Hitchcock’s 1955 film How to Catch a Thief starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant was primarily filmed in the South of France. The Villa des Bijoux in the film is situated in Saint-Jeannet. See Hitchcockwiki for details.

The Baou de Saint-Jeannet is well known for climbers who use its southern precipice. The village is a popular starting point for hikes to the Baou and around it.

The hiking trail from the village to the summit is signposted and initially follows GR 51 then bifurcates left ascending along the hillside to a plateau from where the summit with the viewpoint indicator can be reached in 10 minutes. There are, as always, many variants. The Randoxygène guidebook hike called “Circuit du Castellet” continues north after the summit along the plateau, eventually joins the GR 51 trail, descends to the western side of the Baou, bifurcates again from the GR 51, just before Castillon ruines and continues back to the village right under the steep southern wall of the Baou. Visiting the summit is described as optional but in reality it is the highlight of the whole hike. In fact, it is one of the most popular summits among locals and visitors. If you haven’t done this hike on the French Riviera you haven’t done anything!

Every spring, a competition called la Foulée des Baous is arranged, this year it is on 13 April. It is an event attracting a lot of people. If you are a participant it’s OK but for other visitors, hikers etc there will certainly be a parking problem on that day!

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If you like taking stairs...the Hike to Mont Gros from Roquebrune




Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is situated about 23 km east of Nice. Our goal, Mont Gros (686 m), offers stunning views over the sea and Monaco. The mountain is also a well known paragliding center.

We will start the hike from the station almost by the sea. From there to the old village of Roquebrune the ascent along several stairs takes 40 minutes crossing both the Route National 7 and later the Grande Corniche. The old village at about 200 m already offers panoramic views. An open-air theater has been created in the Roquebrune Castle where concerts and performances are arranged in July and August.

After crossing the old village the trail is now Grande Randonnée GR 53A and consequently marked with red and white. After having reached Place De-Lattre-de-Tassigny the trail continues uphill in a pine forest eventually reaching Col de la Coupière (440 m). Those wishing to make an easier and shorter hike can drive up here. This shorter variant is well described in French in the Randoxygène guide.  The trail is well signposted all the way. From the Col, it’s still a Grande Randonnée (GR 51) trail almost to the summit. From there, you will have a great view over the coast, Monaco and Rocagel, the royal summer residence.

Our hike can be considered “semi urban” as you ascend initially through very nice residential areas to the medieval village before entering more rugged terrain in a forest. In spite of this, you are very close to the coast all the time. The A8 motorway disappears in a tunnel deep under your trail.
Duration: 4 hours, vertical ascent 686 m.

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