Perfume shopping and hiking in Èze




Èze village (11km from Nice on the moyenne corniche ) is an elegant hill top village, village perché. From a distance the village has the monumental medieval unity, and its vaulted passages and stairways were designed not to charm but from fear of attack.

Èze- sur-Mer is the seaside extension of Èze village, and the upper part of Èze, Col d’Èze, is on the Grande Corniche.

The Fragonard perfume shop in Èze village has become a popular stop among tourists. And no wonder because it has all the latest Fragonard scents and a much better selection than their small shop in Nice. Fragonard fragrances are reasonably priced, natural, classic and still rare enough that few people would be likely to wear the same scent that I do. I won’t be telling the names of my favourite scents…

The hike described here is certainly one of the classic littoral hikes on the Riviera.  Named Circuit du Mont Bastide, the starting point can be from Èze- sur-Mer or, as in our case from the Èze village at about 350m. The trail is well signposted and marked with yellow. In spite of its rather modest altitude at 570m, Mont Bastide offers stunning views not only down to the coastline but also to north where the Alpes du Sud peaks are visible. The guide booklet Rando Pays Ĉotier gives additional information in French. The booklet says that the total vertical ascent is about 600m, duration about 4 hours. With a very moderate pace, we completed the circuit in about 3.5 hours. Having done this circuit twice, we consider this hike more like moyenne than sportive as far as the difficulty and effort are concerned.

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Sea bass fillet recipe with orange and lemon compote


Sea bass fillets with orange and lemon compote






















Sea bass, loup de mer, is a tasty white fish. In winter and spring it is regularly available in our local supermarket, usually already filleted and without skin. Sea bass is now farmed extensively in the Mediterranean, which has kept the price reasonable. It seems that the wild sea bass from Sète has become a luxurious product.

The delicate sea bass is best cooked simply. For this simple recipe, a really good and fruity olive oil is essential. I like Alziari Fruitée douce which is a classic olive oil from Nice. Alziari has a small and cosy traditional shop in Vieux Nice, 14 rue St Francois de Paule, not far from cours Saleya market place.

2 servings

 2 nice loup fillets, about 150- 200 g each
2 tbsp fruity olive oil
1 orange
1 lemon
Freshly ground black pepper
Parsley to decorate

Preheat the oven to 200⁰ C, roast.

For the sauce, peel the orange and lemon. Divide into sections removing all the tough membranes. Warm 1 tbsp olive oil in a small casserole and simmer gently the lemon and orange sections. Grind over some black pepper. NB! Just warm gently the lemon and orange sections, do not cook. In 10- 15 minutes they will turn into a kind of compote.

Place the sea bass fillets on a baking tay Sprinkle 1 tbsp olive oil and grind a little black pepper over them. Roast for about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

Divide the fish on the plates and spoon the orange- lemon compote over the fillets. Serve with new potatoes and wilted spinach. Decorate with parsley.

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Hiking around Saint-Jeannet...is Baou a mountain?

Baou de St-Jeannet



Ascent, view and the summit of Saint Jeannet
Baou is a Provençal word meaning a rocky limestone hilltop with a flat summit.


The Baou de Saint-Jeannet (800 m) is a prominent landmark when driving north from Nice along the Route de Grenoble. It is about 20 km from Nice. The medieval village of Saint-Jeannet is protected from northern winds by the Baou. It used to be a frontier village between Provençe and the Comte de Nice during the time when the River Var separated them.

Hitchcock’s 1955 film How to Catch a Thief starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant was primarily filmed in the South of France. The Villa des Bijoux in the film is situated in Saint-Jeannet. See Hitchcockwiki for details.

The Baou de Saint-Jeannet is well known for climbers who use its southern precipice. The village is a popular starting point for hikes to the Baou and around it.

The hiking trail from the village to the summit is signposted and initially follows GR 51 then bifurcates left ascending along the hillside to a plateau from where the summit with the viewpoint indicator can be reached in 10 minutes. There are, as always, many variants. The Randoxygène guidebook hike called “Circuit du Castellet” continues north after the summit along the plateau, eventually joins the GR 51 trail, descends to the western side of the Baou, bifurcates again from the GR 51, just before Castillon ruines and continues back to the village right under the steep southern wall of the Baou. Visiting the summit is described as optional but in reality it is the highlight of the whole hike. In fact, it is one of the most popular summits among locals and visitors. If you haven’t done this hike on the French Riviera you haven’t done anything!

Every spring, a competition called la Foulée des Baous is arranged, this year it is on 13 April. It is an event attracting a lot of people. If you are a participant it’s OK but for other visitors, hikers etc there will certainly be a parking problem on that day!

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If you like taking stairs...the Hike to Mont Gros from Roquebrune




Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is situated about 23 km east of Nice. Our goal, Mont Gros (686 m), offers stunning views over the sea and Monaco. The mountain is also a well known paragliding center.

We will start the hike from the station almost by the sea. From there to the old village of Roquebrune the ascent along several stairs takes 40 minutes crossing both the Route National 7 and later the Grande Corniche. The old village at about 200 m already offers panoramic views. An open-air theater has been created in the Roquebrune Castle where concerts and performances are arranged in July and August.

After crossing the old village the trail is now Grande Randonnée GR 53A and consequently marked with red and white. After having reached Place De-Lattre-de-Tassigny the trail continues uphill in a pine forest eventually reaching Col de la Coupière (440 m). Those wishing to make an easier and shorter hike can drive up here. This shorter variant is well described in French in the Randoxygène guide.  The trail is well signposted all the way. From the Col, it’s still a Grande Randonnée (GR 51) trail almost to the summit. From there, you will have a great view over the coast, Monaco and Rocagel, the royal summer residence.

Our hike can be considered “semi urban” as you ascend initially through very nice residential areas to the medieval village before entering more rugged terrain in a forest. In spite of this, you are very close to the coast all the time. The A8 motorway disappears in a tunnel deep under your trail.
Duration: 4 hours, vertical ascent 686 m.

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Spring chicken recipe

Spring chicken














In the Mediterranean countries asparagus is in season in spring. In April they even organize Fête de l’asperge, asparagus festivities, in Étauliers near Bordeaux. Green Spanish asparagus has already appeared in our local supermarket in Nice. After an exceptionally rainy winter we still have to wait for local French asparagus for a while, but Spanish asparagus could be considered almost local. I believe that asparagus should only be eaten when it is in season locally. The taste and texture is such a pleasure.

Don’t be afraid of using a bit liberally olive oil in this recipe. Crème fraîche 15 % fat has little fat, and skinless chicken breasts, brown rice and asparagus are fat-free; there is place for heart-healthy olive oil. Olive oil in the Mediterranean diet may also be one of the secrets for a good skin which the locals here have even in old age.

2 servings

 2 skinless free-range chicken breasts, blancs de poulet  fermier Label Rouge
10 green French or Spanish asparagus
A generous amount of chives
2 tbsp crème fraîche 15 % fat
5 tbsp olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 210⁰ C, roast. Place the chicken breast on an ovenproof dish lined with baking paper. Grind black pepper and sprinkle 1 tbsp olive oil over the chicken. Roast for 25 minutes.

Wash the asparagus. Cut away about 5 centimeters the bottom parts if they are hard. Peel the bottom parts. Steam for 20 minutes, or microwave for about 4 minutes. I prefer microwaving because it is so quick and effortless.

Cook the brown rice. Again I prefer the pre-cooked variants which only need 10 minutes cooking.

Wash and dry the chives and cut them finely. Spoon 2 tbsp light crème fraîche and 4 tbsp olive oil in a small casserole. Gently warm over a low heat for 5 minutes, whisking to get a smooth sauce. Add the chives in the end.

Divide the chicken breasts, brown rice and asparagus on the plates and drizzle with the sauce.

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Happy ascent to Mont Lion




It is the first day of spring and the day of happiness. The morning in Nice is hazy, partly sunny the temperature at about 14⁰C and rising. The planned hike to Mont Lion can go ahead as planned.

The village of Gilette –with one l-is about 30 km northwest of Nice. When using the newish RD 6202 bis road you pass the town of Carros in no time. Continuing north, at the last roundabout just before the bridge Charles Albert, you turn uphill along RD 17 to reach Gilette. You are now in the region of Vallée de l’Estéron.

Today’s goal Mont Lion (1049m) is clearly visible from the village. The guidebook recommends the hike called Tour du Mont Lion where you can visit the summit, then continue around the whole mountain. This hike takes 6.5 hours and climbs 900+ meters vertical. We have previously done the longer alternative, and think it does not add much. Climbing up to the summit and descending the same route is actually strenuous enough, but you are rewarded with great views from the summit. From Gilette, you first have to descend about 100 m to 320 m before starting the continuous ascent (700 m vertical) to Mont Lion. Signposts (4, 13, 14, 15, and 53) are clear enough and the trail is marked with the usual yellow.

This is a great springtime hike. You have a feeling of a certain microclimate when first descending from Gilette into a small valley. In summer, the ascent will be very warm. In autumn, you have to mind the hunters.
It took 2h 20 min for us to reach the summit; the descent was 1h 50 min. Happy hiking!

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My best spring lamb recipe

Lamb navarin, navarin d’agneau, is a classic spring time dish which is made with new spring vegetables. It is speculated that the term navarin comes from the French navet, turnip, which is an essential ingredient in lamb navarin.
marinating the lamb

The following recipe is inspired by a recipe shown recently on the French Tele Matin. In that TV program, the cook made the dish with souris d’agneau, lamb shanks. Because lamb shanks are difficult to find in our Nice supermarket I used slices of lamb leg, tranches de gigot. Slices of lamb leg can be cooked pretty fast, but lamb shanks need a long and gentle cooking for maximum flavour and tenderness. Microwaving the carrots and turnips will further reduce the cooking time. Sometimes the dinner has to be cooked fast and simple, but there is no need to sacrifice taste or healthy ingredients.
                                                               
Sautéing the lamb leg slices
And I used fresh lemon, not citron confit, as the idea with these spring recipes is to use fresh new ingredients that again are available after winter.

2 servings

2 nice and fat-free slices of lamb leg, tranches de gigot
2 carrots, sliced
2- 3 turnips, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
Freshly ground black pepper
50 ml white wine
Parsley and mint to decorate      
Adding carrots and turnips in casserole

For the marinade:

 2 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
A handful of mint and parsley, washed and finely chopped
1 lemon, peeled and chopped

Place the slices of lamb leg in a shallow dish. Divide the garlic slices and chopped lemon over the lamb. Cover with chopped herbs and sprinkle with olive oil. Cover with foil and marinate one hour in the fridge.
                                                 
My best spring lamb
Heat 1 tbsp rapeseed oil over a medium heat in a heavy casserole. Place the slices of lamb leg in the casserole, with the herb side up, and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add the chopped onion and sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the white wine and black pepper. Then reduce the heat to simmering.

Slice the carrots. Peel and chop the turnips. Microwave the carrots and turnips until they are soft. Add the vegetables in the casserole and continue simmering, partly covering the casserole, for about 5 - 10 minutes.

Divide the lamb and vegetables on the plates and decorate with fresh herbs.

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Panoramic walk from La Turbie






The famous Grande Corniche passes through La Turbie, about 18 km east of Nice. The monument Trophée d’Auguste is a visible landmark of La Turbie. Originally a statue of Augustus Caesar stood on the top of the 45 m high column. The trophy was completely destroyed by Louis XIV’s engineers, and only reconstructed in the 1930’s.

La Turbie and the Grande Corniche have been popular locations for shooting films where daredevil driving and action happens. The 1998 Robert de Niro and Jean Reno thriller “Ronin” used a villa in the very centre of La Turbie where the mysterious suitcase was held. The subsequent attack on the car and the car chase took place in Villefanche-sur-Mer. 

This leisurely walk is altogether more peaceful, although one can still witness the scars on the nature from the 1986 forest fire when ascending towards Fort de la Revère. Best views are on the way back from the old military trail high above the coastline. Fog and/or low clouds are not infrequent along this trail.

The hike is well described in French in the booklet (and on their web site) Pays Côtier published by Conseil General des Alpes Maritimes and called Circuit de la Forna. From La Turbie, the route follows Grande Corniche a few hundred meters then turns right and ascends along a paved narrow street. The trail marked with yellow then continues along the hillside as far as la maison de la nature next to Fort de la Revère. The viewpoint indicator La Simboula is just a short detour from this intersection. The route back is very well marked following initially the old military trail.

The walk takes 2.5 hours (max), distance is 6.8 km and the vertical ascent very reasonable at 220 m.

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Duck breast recipe with orange sauce

Duck breast with orange sauce




















Duck breasts, magrets de canard or simply just magrets, are popular in France. The dark and strong flesh of duck goes very well with sweeter sauces and fruit; duck with orange is a classic combination.
I have always found pan-frying duck breasts and pouring away the hot fat halfway in the cooking a bit complicated method, at least if you are cooking for four or six people. So I was eager to try oven roasting them as was recommended on the package. It turned out so well that I am going to use this method more often.
The orange sauce in this recipe is my favourite variation. I like to serve duck breasts simply with new potatoes and some vegetables. Steamed broccoli florets or Brussels sprouts are nice in this recipe.

4 servings

2 duck breasts, magrets
2 oranges, pressed into juice
4 tsp good orange marmalade, such as Florian confiture d’orange
2 tsp red wine vinegar
Black pepper, freshly ground
Fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp corn flour diluted in a small amount of water

Preheat the oven to 200 ⁰ C.

Line a large baking tray with baking paper. Choose a tray with walls because the duck breasts give away quite a lot of hot fat. The fat solidifies eventually and is easier to discard the next day.

Criss-cross the fatty skin of the duck breasts. Place them in the baking tray flesh-side down. Roast in oven for 15 minutes, then turn and continue cooking a further 15 minutes, skin-side down this time. Remove the breasts from the baking tray and place them on a carving plate. Keep them warm under foil and slice after a while.

Meanwhile cook the sauce. Press the oranges and simmer the juice in a small casserole. Whisk in the marmalade and red wine vinegar. Add some thyme leaves, save the rest for the decoration, and grind in some black pepper. Whisk the corn flour in a small amount of water until smooth. Use it to thicken the sauce as needed; you may not need to use it all.

Divide the sauce on the plates and place the duck breast slices on the sauce. Divide the new potatoes and vegetables on the plates and decorate with thyme leaves.

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A great spring day on Mont Chauve Aspremont



On doit profiter…you have to grab the opportunity as the spring has finally arrived on the French Riviera after a very wet winter. Even the previous record from 1978 was beaten.

The hike to Mont Chauve starts from the charming and well-kept village of Aspremont 14 km north of Nice. Aspremont (500 m) itself offers already great views as it towers high over the Var river valley. There are a couple of restaurants and a bar/café in the centre. The village has recently renovated its parking which is now quite spacious in two floors in the centre of the village.

Mont Chauve (853 m) is located southeast of Aspremont. It is topped by a fortress, and from there you have a panoramic view of Nice, the Baie des Anges, and even some of the boulevards. The strange looking round horizontal thing built on the fortress is a VOR/DME device, a navigational aid for air traffic. In addition, there are a lot of telecommunications masts. Hence, it’s not one of the most beautiful mountaintops per se.

The first signpost is almost next to the parking area. The trail initially follows the D14 road, crosses it and continues along a small road 300m before turning right following the GR5 trail. Ascending along the western hillside of Mont Chauve, one has soon unobstructed views of the Var river valley, Cap Antibes and beyond as well as the snow capped mountains in the north. To ascend the summit, one has to leave GR 5 and turn left at the main intersection south of the mountain, and then follow the trail up to a paved road that leads to the fortress. To complete the hike, as described in the guidebook, the trail back marked by yellow signs descends along the eastern hillside to a place called Baisse de Guigo (730 m) and then straight back to Aspremont.

Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton. Duration of the hike is about three hours. Vertical climb 460 m.
Recommended guide (in French; also on their web site): Tour du Mont Chauve in Rando Pays Côtier booklet.

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