Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

After the festivities many wish to lighten and simplify their eating and maybe lose a little weight. Minestrone, the Mediterranean vegetable soup, is perfect for this purpose.

There are many variations of minestrone, but they all rely on a mixture of fresh seasonal vegetables. The word minestrone describes a thick soup in general. In Italy, pancetta, Italian bacon is often added, but the meat is just as often left out. In Italy, pesto is stirred in the cooked soup whereas in Nice they add pistou. Pistou is made of crushed basil, olive oil, garlic and salt. Good pistou from Provence is sold in Nice supermarkets, the greener it is the better the taste. The richness in the soup comes from a dollop of olive oil and freshly grated parmesan which are added just before the soup is served.

In winter, in Nice supermarkets they sell packages of Italian minestrone vegetables. There are chopped cabbage, borlotti beans (I usually pick these out because they won`t be fully cooked in an hour as the other vegetables), leek, celery, lentils, Swiss chard. Most minestrone recipes include pasta or rice. I leave them out because I like to serve my minestrone with good whole wheat bread.

Any leftover soup can be frozen.

4 servings

500 g package of minestrone vegetables
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
400 g tin chopped tomatoes
400 g tin white beans, rinsed
700 ml vegetable stock made from 1 cube organic vegetable stock and 700 ml water
3 tsp pistou from Provence
4 tbsp olive oil
Freshly grated parmesan cheese

Warm the rapeseed oil in a heavy casserole and soften the shallots and garlic for about 10 minutes.
Add the minestrone vegetables, water, vegetable cube and tinned tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the temperature and let simmer partly covered for an hour. Stir now and again.
Rinse the white beans, add to the soup and let simmer for a while so that they are heated.
When the soup is cooked, stir in the pistou.
Divide the soup in bowls. Add the parmesan and olive oil just before serving. Serve with good whole wheat bread.

Snowshoeing in the Alpes Maritimes (Le Boreon)

In Nordic countries, in spite of the long winter, snowshoeing is not at all that common. The traditional way to more around in wintery landscapes has always been cross country skiing. Even the military moves on skis. Therefore, it was not surprising that our first snowshoeing or rando raquette experience took place here.

Snowshoe hike preparation with the guides

This winter we have unfortunately seen quite a few accidents in the Alps, many of them avalanche-related. We did the hike presented here a few years ago with guides. We recommend hiring a guide for a high terrain hike in winter even for experienced snowshoers. Local guides know their territory very well, for instance they know the areas prone to avalanches.

Taking a break during the snowshoe hike in Le Boreon

Le Boreon is the starting point for many trails. The route was specially chosen by our two guides. During the ascent, we even got a crash course in avalanche victim search, as shown in the video clip. The route was partly off-piste both during the ascent and descent back to Vallon de Salèse. Some parts of the tour actually followed the summer hike called “Circuit des Adus” described in the Randoxygène guide (posted recently in our blog). The summer hike, however, proceeds anticlockwise whereas the snowshoeing tour was done clockwise and started a little lower in the valley. Col de la Vallette (2356 m) was the highest point in both hikes.

Pan-fried scallops with clementine sauce recipe

Scallops, noix de saint-jacques, are usually sold removed from their shells. The edible part of the scallop is the pale muscle and orange roe (coral). They are sold either with or without the roe. I personally think that it is trickier to pan-fry the scallops with the roe. The frying time will depend on the thickness of scallops. Many French recipes recommend frying for only 1 minute, and then the pan has to be really hot. Over-cooking results in tough and rubbery scallops.

In this recipe, the scallops are decorated with grated clementine zest. Alimea Corsican clementines are 100 % organic. They are in season from October to the end of January. They are not waxed or treated after harvest so that you can safely use their zest in cooking, after washing them of course.

Because pan-frying scallops takes only 1- 1 ½ minutes on both sides and they should be served immediately, some planning is wise. It is best to prepare all the vegetables that you are going to serve on the side as well as the clementine sauce before you start frying the scallops. You might try steamed leeks, green beans or braised endives, all go very well with scallops. Serve good whole wheat bread to mop up the sauce.

2 servings

Ingredients for pan-fried scallops with clementine sauce recipe

For the scallops:

6-8 fresh scallops
2- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil for frying

For the clementine sauce:

Juice of 2 Corsican clementines
Grated zest of 1 clementine
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
150 ml water
½ cube vegetable stock, preferably organic
1 tsp soya sauce
2 tsp lavender honey or other runny honey
Black pepper

Step 1: Zester the clementine

In a small saucepan, warm the rapeseed oil and soften the shallot for about 10 minutes. Add the water and the ½ cube vegetable stock and bring to a boil.

Zester one clementine and set aside the zest.

Step 2: The sauce

Press the juice of the clementines and add in the saucepan. Add the soya sauce, lavender honey and black pepper. Continue cooking and whisking occasionally until the sauce is reduced to about half. Set aside and keep warm.

Step 3: Dry the scallops

Dry the scallops with kitchen paper. The scallops I bought today are a real challenge to fry because of such a range in size, but this was what they had in our local supermarket today. I am planning to fry the large ones 1 ½ minutes on both sides and the small ones 1 minute on both sides.

Step 4: Fry the scallops

Heat the rapeseed oil in a heavy frying pan over a high heat and fry the scallops. The planned timing of frying turned out nice.

Divide the vegetables and the sauce on the plates. Place the scallops on top of the sauce and decorate with clementine zest.

Sole Meunière is the classic French sole recipe: The whole sole or sole fillet is coated in flour and pan fried in butter. Dover sole is traditionally preferred for this dish but lemon sole, sole limande, is more widely available and less pricey.
This recipe is a carefree way to prepare sole with a Mediterranean twist and using the heart healthy olive oil.
2 servings

2 whole lemon soles, sole limande, skinned by your fishmonger
2- 3 tbsp olive oil
10 cherry tomatoes
6- 8 new potatoes
About 150 g green beans
100 ml fish stock made from 100 ml water and 1 heaped tsp Ducros fumet de poisson
2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche, 15 % fat
2 tsp capers
Freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges
Parsley

Preheat the oven to 180⁰ C.

Start with the sauce. Heat 100 ml water in a small casserole and whisk in 1 heaped tsp Ducros fumet de poisson to make the fish stock. Fumet de poisson simply means fish stock and is easy to make from the Ducros powder. Keep simmering for a while. Then whisk in the crème fraîche. Add the capers. Set aside but keep warm.

Line a large baking tray with baking paper and place the soles and cherry tomatoes in it. Sprinkle 1 tbsp olive oil on each sole and a little olive oil over the cherry tomatoes. Bake in oven for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, microwave the potatoes; this will only take about 7 minutes. Microwave the green beans for about 3- 4 minutes.

When the soles are ready, divide the sauce on the plates and place the potatoes on it. Grind a little black pepper on the soles and place them on the plates. Divide the cherry tomatoes and green beans on the plates. Decorate with parsley and serve with lemon wedges.

Christmas seems like a good time of the year to visit a jam factory. And why not combine it with a hike?

Confiserie Florian in Pont du Loup is renowned in the region for its quality products. At the factory, there’s a shop and a possibility for guided tours.

Read more about Florian here

From Pont-du-Loup ( about 200 m), it is possible to start several hikes. Chemin du Paradis, the scenic trail that ascends to the mountaintop village of Gourdon, is very popular among locals.

You can start from the village Bar-sur-Loup (320 m) and do the Circuit du Paradis as described in Les Guides Randoxygène, or as in our video clip from Pont-du-Loup which makes the tour a little shorter even though the vertical climb is over 500 m in both variants.
Gourdon (760 m) is one of the most visited perched villages in Alpes-Maritimes. In Hitchcock’s 1955 film To Catch A Thief the director used a wide, long distance shot of Gourdon to simulate Robie’s luxurious villa although the actual villa was (and still is) in St Jeannet.

Read Trip advisor reviews about Gourdon here

More about the village here

IGN Map: “Cannes-Grasse” TOP 25 No 3643 ET

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Green Puy lentils AOP are cultivated in Le Puy region, most notably in the commune of Velay, in France.
They are much appreciated for their taste.

Like all lentils they are a good source of vegetable protein, fiber and minerals. It is a good idea to compliment lentils with grains, which results in a complete protein dish.
Lentils contain also carbohydrates, which are particularly slowly digested and help to keep longer an even blood sugar. Several studies suggest that lentils are super good for the heart. So are fresh herbs because of their antioxidants.

Green Puy lentils can be cooked in about 30 minutes in boiling water. They do not need soaking before cooking.

2 servings

2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
About 200 g potiron, pumpkin, chopped (or 2 carrots, chopped)
1 tomato, chopped
200 ml Puy lentils
1 l water
100 ml tomato sauce, coulis de tomates
2 bay leaves
1 cube chicken stock, bouillon cube volaille, pref. organic, they have more taste
2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche (15 %)
Freshly ground black pepper
Lots of chopped fresh herbs, different types

In a large casserole, heat the oil over medium heat. Fry gently the pumpkin, onion and garlic for about 10 minutes. Add the tomato, bay leaves and pepper. Add the crumbled chicken stock cube, tomato sauce and water and bring to the boil.

Wash the lentils under running water and add to the casserole. Cover partly and reduce the heat slightly so that the lentils are gently boiling. Cook for about 30- 40 minutes until the lentils and vegetables are soft. Stir occasionally and check for water.

Divide into bowls, dot with low-fat crème fraîche and decorate with fresh herbs.
Serve with a green salad and whole wheat bread

In mid November, the hunting season was in full swing, and the hunters’ dogs were doing their best. We were careful to stay on the trail and to wear colourful clothing.

The hike called Circuit du Cuore is one of the tours recommended by the guidebook “Rando Moyen Pays”. It is graded as “sportive” because of the duration (5h30) and the vertical ascent (770 m). In addition, the initial descent down from Le Cuore (1095 m) was steep and rocky and not very well marked. All in all, it was a great one day hike.

Sospel, the starting point of this hike, is 19 km north of Menton.

Find more about Sospel here:

Description of the hike in French

Map in the video courtesy of: Conseil General des Alpes-Maritimes

IGN map: “Vallée de la Bévéra » TOP 25 no 3741 ET

Music. Actual title:"Acid Trumpet" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)

Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0

http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

Free-range chickens have firmer and tastier meat than conventional caged chickens. In France, they are called poulets fermiers élevés en liberte, and the amount of free time and exercise outdoors is regulated. So it is good to know that the chicken has had a happy and free life.

The following recipe is inspired by the spices, fruits and vegetables traditionally used in Moroccan tajines which are simply stews slowly cooked in oven for many hours. Typical spices are cumin, coriander, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, saffron and pepper. The various vegetables are combined with dried fruits, nuts and honey. This is perfect comfort food for cold winter evenings!

2 servings
2 free-range chicken legs
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 shallots chopped
2 cloves garlic minced
1 yellow paprika chopped
4 dried apricots halved (pref. organic)
1 tbsp raisins
1 tbsp runny honey (pref. lavender)
50 ml chicken stock
50 ml white wine
1 tsp quatre épices (a mixture of ground cinnamon, ginger, clove and nutmeg)
1 tsp saffron
1 tsp piment d’Espelette
Sliced almonds to decorate

Preheat the oven to 180 ⁰ C.

Warm the rapeseed oil over medium heat in a heavy casserole and fry the chicken legs on both sides until golden brown. Add the vegetables, fruits and spices and continue cooking for a few minutes stirring now and again. Add the chicken stock, white wine and honey.

Transfer to oven for 1 hour.

Decorate with sliced almonds and serve with whole wheat couscous or quinoa.

Henri Matisse came to Vence in June 1943 to avoid the possible bombing of Nice. He was charmed by Vence and stayed there until 1949.

In spite of many health problems, Matisse was very productive during these years. His main work in this period was the creation of la Chapelle du Rosaire at 466 Avenue Henri Matisse just outside the town centre. The chapel can be visited, closed each year from mid November to mid December. Check opening hours at:
http://vence.fr/la-chapelle-du-rosaire-chef-d?lang=fr (in French)

Matisse stayed in Villa Le Rêve near the chapel where he received his friends, such as Picasso, Bonnard and Aragon.

Vence has always been a city of significance, and we recommend a stroll around the beautiful old town.

Thin turkey slices, escalopes de dinde, are virtually fat free so that you don’t have to worry about using more liberally heart-healthy olive oil in this recipe.

Smoking point for olive oil is between 199 - 207⁰ C depending on its fatty acid content. High quality, low acidity olive oils have the highest smoking points, about 207⁰ C. In this dish, which is cooked in 200⁰ C in oven, you can very well use your best quality extra-virgin olive oil.

The vegetables in this recipe reflect autumn and winter.

2 servings

2 thin turkey slices, about 100- 120 g each

1 large carrot, grated

About 100 g cauliflower, grated (about the same amount than grated carrot)

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

4 tbsp olive oil

4 tbsp finely grated parmesan

2 tbsp red wine

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh thyme leaves

150 ml chicken stock

1 tsp Herbes de Provence

Over low to medium heat, warm 1 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan. Grate the carrot and gently start cooking it in the pan. Add the shallot and garlic and continue cooking for a few minutes. Add the chicken stock and Herbes de Provence, and continue cooking until the vegetables are soft but moist.

Meanwhile grate the cauliflower. Add to the pan and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 200⁰ C.

Line a large ovenproof dish with baking paper. Brush with 1 tbsp olive oil. Halve the escalopes de dinde so that you have 4 thin slices about 50- 60 g each. Place 2 slices into the ovenproof dish. Top with vegetable mixture and then the remaining 2 turkey slices.

Don’t worry if you have more vegetable mixture than fits between the turkey slices. Just shape two heaps of the vegetable mixture in the baking dish and sprinkle with a little dry bread crumbs. These will make nice little vegetable gratins.

Sprinkle 2 tbsp red wine on the turkey slices. Then divide the parmesan on turkey slices and vegetable heaps, and sprinkle with the remaining olive oil.

Bake in 200⁰ C for 35 minutes. Serve with steamed new potatoes and decorate with thyme leaves.

Hiking and Cooking in the South of France

Minestrone soup recipe

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Snowshoeing in Alpes Maritimes

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Pan-fried scallops with clementine sauce