Three mountain passes from Ste-Claire (Levens)

 

Climb to Colla Bassa begins


We had previously hiked to Colla Bassa (888 m) from Levens. While exploring new itineraries in this region, we wanted to try a loop starting from the hamlet of Ste-Claire (512 m) by the M19 road south of Levens. There’s a decent parking at Place Antoine Icart. 

GR5 south of Ste-Claire
GR5 south of Ste-Claire
Mont Lion seen from trail
Mont Lion seen from trail
Above Plan de Couthon
Above Plan de Couthon

The GR 5 trail runs next to Ste-Claire, and we followed it to the south, initially along a paved road, then a dirt track to Colla Partida (565 m; signpost  #290). From the trail, we had nice views to the west, St-Blaise village etc. Colla Partida is a crossroads of several trails. We left the GR 5, forked left and descended rapidly to Plan de Couthon (427 m) by the M19 road. We crossed the road carefully to signpost #823 (title picture above) and began the long ascent to Colla Bassa. We hiked past signpost #815 then #219 (image below) after which we temporarily took the wrong trail in Ravin des Balmettes where the overgrown wet trail soon vanished and we returned to #219. The correct trail turned sharply left, uphill just 20 m after the signpost.


Left turn after 20m!
Left turn after 20m!
Spring signs
Spring signs
Colla Bassa 30min!
Colla Bassa 30min!
Levens and Mont Vial
Levens and Mont Vial
Mont Cima
Mont Cima

The rest of the ascent was uneventful. We took a well-deserved break at Colla Bassa (signpost #218). The  main view was to the northeast with the still snow-capped Mercantour Range in the horizon. The best views to the coast and to the west were from the trail just before Colla Bassa.

We continued to the northwest. After a brief ascent and passing the crossroads to Col de Rosa, we descended to  Col de Travail (760 m; signpost #281), a clearing with some ruined houses. From here, we first followed a dirt track about 200 m and at signpost #282 we forked left to Ste-Claire and descended rapidly back to the hamlet.


Colla Bassa
Colla Bassa
Col de Travail
Col de Travail
Rapid descent to Ste-Claire
Rapid descent to Ste-Claire
Ste-Claire
Ste-Claire

Climb: 600 m
Distance: 11,5 km
Duration: 4h 30 active
Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton Côte d’Azur

3 cols hike simplified map

Three cols loop hike
Three cols loop hike


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Tagliatelle with spinach and Parma ham

 

Tagliatelle with spinach and Parma ham


This is a simple and comforting dish, perfect to make in winter after hiking in hills or forests. It is quick to make from frozen spinach.

2 servings

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 handfuls of frozen spinach, defrosted

100 ml white wine

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

About 120 g Parma ham

A generous amount of parmesan shavings

Whole wheat tagliatelle for 2 servings


In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for 10 minutes until soft. Add the defrosted spinach, white wine, herbs, and black pepper and stir. Let simmer.


Meanwhile cook the tagliatelle according to the advice on the package. Drain the pasta and add to the sauté pan. Stir until the pasta is nicely coated with oil and spinach. 


Divide the tagliatelle on the lates. Fold in the Parma ham slices and top with parmesan shavings.


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Menton to Castellar loop hike

 

Castellar seen from trail


We have used the village of Castellar north of Menton as a starting point for many hikes, such as the Mont Carpano loop. 

This time we wanted to start from Menton along the GR 52 trail, then back along a trail beginning in the Vallon de l’Orméa. We had marked the waypoints on our last hike.

Start from Menton
Start from Menton
GR52 start in Menton
GR52 start in Menton
Menton seen from trail
Menton seen from trail

We parked in Menton-Garavan and headed to the Garavan railway station, and found the first signpost of today’s itinerary behind the station. However, the numbers on the rather new posts were different from those on our map (Nr 1 was 420 on the map etc). The white/red markings were frequent and easy to follow as we first ascended along stairs and narrow streets. We walked under the A8 motorway, and after a short stretch along roads, we were on the rocky and rather steep trail to  Granges St-Paul.


GR52 still in Menton
GR52 still in Menton
GR52 now more sauvage
GR52 now more sauvage
GR52 higher above Menton
GR52 higher above Menton
Near Granges Saint-Paul
Near Granges Saint-Paul

We reached a dirt road named Piste des Granges St-Paul and forked left heading northwest towards Castellar. The GR 52 continued straight to Plan de Lion. After about 2 km we came to the outskirts of Castellar. At signpost #414 (Menton par Balmetta et le Baousset) we forked left  and soon entered a delightful path in a verdant valley. Now yellow-marked, the descent became steeper as we approached the A8. Pay close attention here to the markings as the trail exited a road and dove into a pedestrian tunnel under the motorway.

We came to the upper neighbourhoods of Menton, and passed a pony club. There were no markings anymore, but the direction was evident. Passing several beautiful villas with panoramic views, we walked past the cemetery before reaching the old town.


Signpost#414 return trail
Signpost#414 return trail
Return trail to Menton
Return trail to Menton
Menton Garavan
Menton Garavan

Climb: 510 m
Distance: 10,4 km
Duration: 3h 45 active time
Map: Nice Menton Côte d’Azur 3742 OT


Menton Castellar hike track



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Roasted cherry tomatoes with white beans

 

Roasted cherry tomatoes with white beans


This tasty lactovegetarian dish is often served as mezze, apéro in Eastern Mediterranean countries. It can also be served as a simple supper if supplemented by some good country bread, a green side salad, and perhaps some feta or goat cheese.

I have replaced the typical Eastern Mediterranean herbs and spices with herbes de Provençe and Piment d’Espelette.

2 servings

About 250 g cherry tomatoes

About 250 g white beans in a glass jar

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp. Herbes de Provençe

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette

100 ml white wine

2 tbsp. black olives

To serve:

4 tbsp. fromage blanc 0% fat or thick Greek yoghurt

Basil leaves


Preheat the oven to 190°C, roast


Rinse the cherry tomatoes. Spread 1 tbsp. olive oil in the bottom of an oven-proof sauté pan. Add the cherry tomatoes and mix until well coated with olive oil. Roast for 30 minutes.


Meanwhile warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large thick- bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for 10- 12 minutes. 


Deglaze with white wine and let reduce a few minutes. Add the Provençal herbs and Piment d’Espelette


Rinse the white beans under running water and add to the saucepan. When the cherry tomatoes are well collapsed and a bit coloured, add them to the saucepan and mix.


Spread the fromage blanc or yoghurt on the sides of 2 bowls. Divide he cherry tomato mixture in the centre and decorate with basil leaves.


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Èze Village to la Simboula

 

Èze and Cap Ferrat

In one of our early blogposts, we described  a loop hike from Èze Village to Fort de la Revère.

As the village attracts a lot of visitors, a large underground parking was recently opened after years of construction.

We planned to redo the hike to the fort combined with a loop in la Simboula.

The village was already bustling with tourists on a sunny autumn weekend but we had no problems in finding a spot in the new parking house.

Ascending above Èze
Ascending above Èze
Trail above Èze Village
Trail above Èze Village
Break near fort de la Revère
Break near fort de la Revère
Viewing Cap Ferrat
Viewing Cap Ferrat

We walked along the Moyenne Corniche a few hundred meters to signpost #645 where we forked left, passing several houses and signposts #646 and #647. Climbing quite steeply in places, we crossed the Grande Corniche at signpost #648.

We came to a crossroads at signpost #650 where we forked right and soon came to the paved road (#651) south of the fortress. La Maison de la Nature was opposite us. You never get tired of the panorama from here! 

After a break we headed east along the ex-military track with which followed the precipitous southern flank of la Simboula.

At a crossroads about 1 km from Maison de la Nature we forked left. There were new signposts showing nature trail options in the woods. We chose the one to la Simboula where we climbed to the small observation tower with a map.

The new nature trails turned out to be pleasant and easy to follow, and child-friendly. Families with small children can drive up to the parking west of the fortress (Parking du fort de la Revère).




Entering tunnel in la Simboula
Entering tunnel in la Simboula
La Simboula military tunnel
La Simboula military tunnel
Route de la Simboula
Route de la Simboula
La Simboula viewing tower
La Simboula viewing tower
Viewing la Tête du Chien
Viewing la Tête du Chien
Returning to Èze
Returning to Èze

We descended back to signpost #650 where we forked right, crossed the Grande Corniche (signpost #653) and followed a steep paved road with beautiful residences then a rocky trail before reaching narrow streets just before Èze.


Climb: 420 m
Distance: 6,3 km
Duration: 2h 40
Map: 3742 OT “Nice-Menton” Côte d’Azur


Èze la Simboula hike track
Èze la Simboula hike track



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Mediterranean fettucine

 

Mediterranean fettucine


This tasty pasta recipe is full of healthy ingredients: olive oil, cherry tomatoes, whole wheat pasta, shallots, garlic, black olives, pine nuts, and fresh herbs. The not so healthy pancetta is used in a small quantity, like a flavouring, which was typical of the classic Mediterranean diet. This type of cuisine is shown to be the healthiest way of eating.

2 servings

Whole wheat fettucine for 2 servings

Olive oil

100 g pancetta, chopped

2 tbsp. pine nuts

1-2 handfuls of cherry tomatoes

2 tbsp. organic black olives

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

Some parmesan shavings

Freshly ground black pepper

100 ml white wine

Basil leaves for decoration


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a sauté pan over medium- high heat. Fry the cherry tomatoes and pine nuts until the tomatoes start collapsing and the pine nuts are getting a bit of colour. Stir frequently.


Reduce the heat to medium. Add  the chopped pancetta, garlic, shallot, and black olives to the pan. Continue cooking for 10 minutes. Deglaze with white wine.


Meanwhile cook the fettucine al dente. Drain and add to the pan. Grind over some back pepper and mix.


Divide the pasta into 2 bowls and the pancetta- vegetable mixture around it. Sprinkle with parmesan shavings and decorate with basil.


Serve with a green side salad for a balanced meal.


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Hyères: Coastal trail in Giens

Île Longue


 Located in the southern part of the city of Hyères, the western part of the  Giens Peninsula is much less inhabited, with rugged terrain, beautiful Mediterranean woods and several impressive cliffs. Here, the popular coastal hiking trail (le sentier littoral) circles along its shores with stunning views from many parts of the path. While admiring the scenery, it is advisable to stop as some stretches are narrow, exposed and steep.


                                

Pines near Madgague Beach
Pines near Madgague Beach
Heading to beach from Madrague
Heading to beach from Madrague
View to north from Pointe des Chevaliers
View to north from Pointe des  Chevaliers
Western part of Giens Peninsula
Western part of Giens Peninsula

We drove to Madrague where we parked in the Parking rando Giens (unpaved, potholes). We walked to Rue de Madrague, forked left (west) and headed towards the beach, passing a camping ground. We located the first signposts showing the coastal trail which was well marked with yellow. We climbed to the first cliffs  with views to the west and the nearby Île Longue and Île de la Ratonnière, and Toulon in the distance.


Above a cliff in Giens
Above a cliff in Giens
Giens Sugar Loaf
Giens Sugar Loaf
Point du Rabat Giens
Point du Rabat Giens

We continued south/southwest to Pointe des Chevaliers then above Calanque du Blé to Pointe des Salis. A few times we descended to small coves with sand beaches. 

We headed east, and after a few steep ascents and descents, we came to Plage des Darbussières where we turned left and headed back to our starting point along a dirt road.


Duration: 2h 30
Climb: 330 m (Iphigènie app) , 200 m (Under Armour® Map my hike)
Distance: 6,7 km


Steep stretch of trail Giens
Steep stretch of trail Giens
Like a scenery from Count of Monte Cristo Movie
Like a scenery from Count of Monte Cristo Movie

Giens hike track


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