Exploring Haut-de-Cagnes

Chateau Grimaldi

Haut-de-Cagnes is a medieval Riviera hilltop village famous for its artistic past. The village is well visible from the coast. The Grimaldi Castle, Château Grimaldi dominates the old town with its tower over 90 m asl.

We visited Haut-de-Cagnes on Victory Day when both the Château Musée Grimaldi and restaurants on the Place du Château were open. We parked in the centre of Cagnes-sur-Mer and walked through the town, first following traffic signs to Haut-de-Cagnes then ascended along a pedestrian itinerary. It was less than half an hour’s walk to the Place du Château.

Haut de Cagnes pedestrian route

Stairs to Haut-de-Cagnes

Near Chateau Grimaldi

Chateau Grimaldi ceiling

Chateau Grimaldi inner court

View to east from castle tower

View to southwest from castle tower

View to northwest from castle tower

Suzy Solidor portraits

Haut-de-Cagnes walk track

Herbal white bean purée

It is always a good idea to have cooked white beans in your freezer. I always cook a large amount of white beans, just remember to soak them overnight, and freeze them in batches. These can then easily be incorporated in various stews or soups. They can also be puréed and used as a dip or a part of a salad.

2 servings for a lacto-vegetarian salad

2 handfuls of cooked defrosted white beans

50 ml tasty olive oil

Juice and zest of ½ organic lemon

A pinch of salt (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

A handful of chopped fresh organic herbs such as basil, chives, parsley, mint etc.

Place all the ingredients in a deep bowl and purée with a handheld mixer into a nice consistence. If needed, add 1-2 tbsp. of water. 

Divide the purée in the middle of the plates. Surround with baby salad leaves and parmesan shavings. Sprinkle over olive oil vinaigrette. Serve with some good whole wheat or rye bread for a carefree and super healthy lunch.

Caussols to Calern Observatory and Notre Dame de Calern

Collet de Maçon, our planned goal today, was covered with snow and we decided instead to hike along the GR4 towards the Côte d’Azur Observatory situated on the vast Calern Plateau. The southern flank of Sommet de Calern offered a certain microclimate on the sunny winter day, just a few days after a heavy snowfall.

Caussols Church

GR4 to Calern

Caussols Plateau seen from Calern

Colle du Maçon

Limestone formations Calern

Haut Montet viewed from Calern

Mont Mounier seen from Calern

Montagne de Thiey & Sommet de Calern

Cheiron Massif seen from Calern

Cave entrance Calern

Notre Dame de Calern chapel

Moroccan style sardine fillet and potato bake

 Chermoula is a Moroccan sauce and marinade usually served with fish or vegetables and chicken. Chermoula was traditionally prepared in a mortar with a pestle to crush all the herbs so that they best released their flavour. Because I am not a fan of fresh coriander I have only used parsley for my chermoula.

2 servings

6 sardine fillets

3-5 new potatoes

2 medium onions

8 black olives, pitted

1 lemon

Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

A few sprigs of parsley to decorate

For the chermoula:

4 tbsp. finely cut parsley

1 clove of garlic, minced

2 tsp. paprika powder

2 tsp. cumin powder

2 tbsp. lemon juice

3 tbsp. olive oil

A pinch of salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200° C.

Prepare the chermoula. Crush the minced garlic, a pinch of salt, black pepper, paprika powder, and cumin powder in a mortar with a pestle. Add the parsley, cut finely with scissors, and the olive oil. Juice the lemon and use 2 tbsp. for the chermoula saving the rest for the potato bake. Crush all the ingredients in the mortar into a nice consistence.

Place the sardine fillets on a large plate skin- side up and spread half of the chermoula on them. Cover with foil and keep refrigerated until needed.

Wash and peel the potatoes. Cut into thin slices. Peel the onions and thinly slice them. In a bowl, mix the potato and onion slices with 2 tbsp. olive oil, the rest of the lemon juice, and freshly ground black pepper.  Pour into a non-stick oven-proof dish and bake for 30 minutes. Then add the rest of the chermoula and the olives and mix. Continue baking for 30 minutes, covering the dish if needed, or until the potatoes are soft.  

Place the sardine fillets on top of the potato- onion bake and return the dish into the oven for 10 minutes. Decorate with a few sprigs of parsley and serve with some wilted spinach or other greens.