Pasta à la Savannah

Late one evening, we had a nice comforting pasta in an Italian Riverside restaurant in Savannah. We had been travelling all day and this warm and tasty dish was just what we needed. The pasta was grilled in individual oven- proof dishes until the cheese had melted and included a good mixture of vegetables: mushrooms, spinach, shallots, and garlic. It had quite a generous amount of cream sauce in the American style and the choice of two cheeses, parmesan and mozzarella, went well with the vegetables.

The following recipe is my twist of that pasta. I have omitted the cream and chosen wholewheat pasta for a healthier variation. Almost any pasta shapes work in this recipe except the long ones like spaghetti or tagliatelle.

If you have individual oven-proof dishes by all means use them for an impressive presentation. Our photo shows two portions of the recipe.

2 servings

2 handfuls of wholewheat pasta such as fusilli or penne

Olive oil

2 handfuls of sliced mushrooms

2- 3 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

50 ml white wine

100 ml chicken stock

1 tsp. Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

3 handfuls of baby spinach leaves

1 small mozzarella ball

2 handfuls of grated parmesan

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a   sauté pan over medium heat. Fry the mushrooms until they start releasing some liquid. Add the shallots and garlic and continue sautéing for 5- 10 minutes stirring now and again. Add the white wine, chicken stock, herbs, and some black pepper. Reduce the heat for simmering.

Meanwhile cook the pasta, cut the mozzarella into eight chunks and grate the parmesan. When the pasta is cooked, drain it and add to the sauté pan. Add the spinach and continue sautéing until the spinach has just wilted. 

Preheat the oven to 210°C, roast.

Transfer the pasta and vegetables into an oven- proof dish and fold in the parmesan. Scatter the mozzarella chunks among the pasta and vegetables. Roast for 5- 10 minutes until the mozzarella has melted. 

Monêtier-les-Bains: Around Aguillette du Lauzet

Aguillette du Lauzet

The following loop around the Aguillette du Lauzet Mountain (2717 m) is nicely described in Bernard Ranc’s great hiking guide Les plus belles randonnées des Alpes du Sud. The village of Le Lauzet is situated just some km northwest of Monêtier les Bains and less than 10 min by car. 

For most hikers, the biggest attraction seemed to be Le Grand Lac (2282 m), north of Le Lauzet. The starting point, Le Pont de l’Alpe (1710 m), for both hikes is by the main D1091 road.

Ascent from Pont de l'Alpe GR50

L'Alpe du Lauzet

Above l'Alpe du Lauzet

Northern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet

Leaving GR57for Col d'Aguilllette

We started along the wide GR50 trail, having the steep western flank of the mountain to our right. At l’Alpe du Lauzet (1940 m), one trail forked left to the lake. We climbed northeast, towards Col du Chardonnet, following Torrent du Rif. There was a renown via ferrata to our right, and some climbers took advantage of that.

At the next crossroads (signpost), at about 2220 m, we reached the GR57 trail and forked right. We continued towards Col du Chardonnet. After several bends, we saw the unmarked trail at about 2400 m and forked right (image), leaving the GR57, and climbed to Col de l’Aguillette (2534 m). We continued almost horizontally along the eastern flank. Some parts of the trail were a bit exposed and the trail was narrow. 

Col de l'Aguillette

Viewing Les Ecrins from Col de l'Aguillette

Eastern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet

Ibexes on Aguillette du Lauzet

View to La Guisane Valley

Descending to GR50

Chemin du Roy GR50

Aguillette du Lauzet hike track

French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette

French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette

This twist of the classic French toast is inspired by a recipe of the Cheval Blanc restaurant in Paris. I have simplified the original recipe by Choosing avocado instead of green tomato sorbet and Italian passata to the tomato vinaigrette instead of making this from scratch. And of course, I use olive oil instead of butter.

This very tasty dish makes a nice lunch served with a green side salad.

2 servings

1 avocado, sliced

4 slices of Parma ham

Basil leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

For the tomato vinaigrette:

150 ml Italian passata, pref. organic

2 tbsp. good Italian balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp. tasty olive oil, pref. organic

For the French toast:

2 large slices of whole wheat toast

2 eggs

50 ml milk

Olive oil for frying

First make the tomato vinaigrette by whisking together the passata, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. Keep in the fridge until needed.

Warm a generous amount of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Whisk together the eggs and milk and soak the toast slices in it. Fry until golden brown on both sides.

Meanwhile wash and slice the avocado.

Divide the tomato vinaigrette into two bowls and place the toast slices in the middle. Top with folded Parma ham slices, avocado, and some basil. Grind over some black pepper and serve.  

Ceillac: Lac Miroir

Lac Miroir eastern shore

 Ceillac (1640 m) is an authentic Alpine Village in the heart of the Queyras Regional Natural Park. The renowned GR5 long distance hiking trail runs through Ceillac. The small village is surrounded by a wide valley with some agricultural and livestock activity.

Towards southeast, the Mélézet Valley is narrower, and is surrounded by steep forested mountain flanks. The GR5 trail starts to climb from Pied du Mélezet, close to a high waterfall, Cascade de la Pisse. 

We have previously hiked from Ceillac along the GR5 to the Ste-Anne Lake and Col Girardin. Today’s hike was much shorter, perfect on a day when thunderstorms were forecasted for the afternoon.

GR5 from Pied du Mélezet

GR5 near Lac Miroir

Swiss pine and Lac Miroir

Signpost near Lac Miroir

Trail back from Lac Miroir

Pied du Mélezet and Ceillac

Lac Miroir hike track

Veal cutlets stuffed with pesto

For this dish, you will need very thin veal or turkey cutlets. The ones which you find in supermarkets are pretty thick but they can easily be flattened at home. Place the cutlets between two film sheets and flatten with a baking roller or by gently pounding with your fist.

2 servings

2 large and thin veal or turkey cutlets

Olive oil

For the stuffing:

A handful of chopped parsley and basil

2 tbsp. grated parmesan

2 tbsp. sliced almonds

1 tsp. capers

1 tbsp. olive oil

½ clove garlic, minced

For the sauce:

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, minced

100 ml white wine

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.

With a handheld mixer, purée all the stuffing ingredients. The stuffing does not need to be totally smooth. Divide it on the cutlets, fold them and fix with a cocktail stick. Place the cutlets in an oiled oven-proof dish and drizzle over a little olive oil. Roast for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile make the sauce. Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat and sauté the shallot for 5- 10 minutes. Add the white wine, mustard, and some black pepper and cook until reduced.

Divide the cutlets on the plates and pour the sauce over. Serve with roasted sweet potato slices or black rice and some greens. 

Ceillac: Col Tronchet

Col Tronchet (2661 m) above Ceillac is one of the mountain passes connecting the Queyras Region with the Ubaye Valley. It is possible to drive about 6 km in the Mélézet Valley to the very end of the narrow but paved road to a parking (not paved; at 1965 m elev.), used mainly for hikes up to the Ste-Anne Lake.

Start to Col Tronchet

Climbing to Col Tronchet

Col Tronchet in sight

Tête de Girardin

View to west from Col Tronchet

Descent from Col Tronchet

Alpine meadow by the Tronchet trail

Col Tronchet hike track

Oven-braised chicken thighs

This is a warming dish to be made in autumn and winter. The choice of ingredients is not very different from the classic coq au vin but whole grain mustard, moutard à l’ancienne, gives the dish a special twist. 

Make this in a heavy cast-iron pot, cocotte, such as Le Creuset.

2 servings

4 chicken thighs with skin and bone

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 handfuls of sliced mushrooms

About 4 shallots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. whole grain mustard

100 ml chicken stock

100 ml white wine

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate

Preheat the oven to 200°C, roast.

Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Fry the chicken thighs on both sides until golden. Remove from the pot and set aside. 

Add the shallots, mushrooms, and garlic to the pot and cook for a few minutes stirring occasionally. Pour in the wine and chicken stock scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the whole grain mustard and return the chicken thighs skin side up nestling them into the mushrooms and shallots. Pour in any accumulated juices from the chicken. There should be enough liquid in the pot so that the chicken thighs are partly covered.  

Transfer the pot in the oven and braise uncovered for 40- 45 minutes. The chicken skin should be nicely browned and the meat very tender.

Serve the chicken with brown or black rice. Grind over some black pepper and sprinkle with chopped herbs.

Ceillac: Crête des Chambrettes

Optical telegraph post Chambrettes

Situated in the Queyras Regional Nature Park, Ceillac is a true hikers’ mecca. A few days’ stay is just not enough to explore all the opportunities.

The following hike features a great loop above Ceillac, circling via the Chambrettes Ridge, Crête des Chambrettes. 

As late as in 1899/1900, the French army built a chain of optical telegraph posts* in the Alps. The purpose was to communicate between Nice and Lake Geneva (and beyond). One of these posts was built on Crête des Chambrettes on a spot where the ridge (2555 m) is narrow, only about 100 m from the highest point (2582 m).

GR58 above Ceillac

Near Col de Bramousse

Col de Bramousse

Above Col de Bramousse

Jean Grossan lookout point

Cristillan Valley

Peaks south of Ceillac

Ceillac seen from Crête des Chambrettes

Eastern Crête des Chambrettes

Near summit of Crête des Chambrettes

View west from Crête des Chambrettes

Return from Col Fromage

Crête des Chambrettes hike track

Spaghetti with mackerel and cherry tomatoes

Mackerel is a good source of heart- healthy omega- 3 fatty acids. Being low in the food chain, it accumulates much less toxins and heavy metals than tuna or swordfish. If you find fresh mackerel fillets in your shops, this is a recipe to try.

2 servings

2- 3 mackerel fillets

10- 12 cherry tomatoes, halved

3 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tsp. small capers

Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Whole wheat spaghetti for 2 servings

A good handful of chopped basil

Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast. Roast the mackerel fillets, skin side up, for 10 minutes. Remove the skin and cut the mackerel into smaller pieces. Set aside.

Meanwhile cook the spaghetti according to the advice on the package.

Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and sauté the cherry tomatoes, shallots, and garlic for 10 minutes. Add the capers, black pepper and the cooked and drained spaghetti and mix. Fold in the mackerel pieces and basil. Divide into bowls and serve.